Land Rover Repair
Repair and maintenance information for Land Rover vehicles
Land Rover Repair InformationWe'll help you out with everything you need to know about your Land Rover vehicle. |
TOP 3 LAND ROVER REPAIR PROBLEMS
Check the wires. Door locking mechanisms sometimes just fail to operate because of loosened or cut-off wire connections. Wires may also get burned out due to electrical overloading and over usage. Remove the door switch panel. Lift it very gently just in case some of the components and wires are attached onto it. Pry it open around the edges using a long flat tool (e.g. a screwdriver) and a cloth to protect the upholstery and interior paint.
Repair or replace the latch or locking mechanism. The door locking mechanism comprises plastic and metal parts. Plastic parts may become brittle, while the metal parts may rust or accumulate excessive grime. If any of the mechanism's components break or get stuck up, the operation of the door mechanism would surely become erratic. The latch may fail to release the striker bar (the piece of metal mounted on the door jamb's side) and make it impossible to unlock your door both manually and electronically. It may also cause your door to lock or unlock on its own.
Use a rebuilding or seal kit. The power steering box uses a number of seals like the input shaft pressure seal and backup seals. These are common seep points and should be replaced regularly.
Use hydraulic oil additives. Many car owners find this solution very effective. However, there are also some who don't. In any case, it wouldn't be bad to try it out. Petroleum-based boosters and stabilizers claim to stop leaks, lower temperature and friction, lengthen component lifespan, and boost hydraulic pressure in the power steering system.
Get a new power steering box. If all else fails and you see that your steering box really needs to be replaced, then do so. Just be sure to install brand-new seals, clips, and washers with the new power steering box to ensure excellent part performance.
Rattling in the exhaust line from under the chassis could mean dismantled or loosened pipe connections and fasteners. Jack up your vehicle and take a look at its exhaust clamps, brackets, hangers, and gaskets. Tighten bolts and screws that may be coming off. Replace components that are already corroded.
If all pipes are firmly secured and bolted, the rattling may be coming from the catalytic converter and/or muffler. Components inside the catalytic converters and mufflers may get dislodged when worn or corroded. The best solution to this is part replacement.
These components, however, could be quite a pain in the pocket to buy. For temporary remedy, you can drill and insert drywall screws into the muffler or catalytic converter to keep the loose component inside it from rattling. To determine where the loose part is, turn on the engine and listen for the rattle by using a mechanic's stethoscope.
Signing you in.