Repair and maintenance information for Isuzu vehicles
TOP 4 ISUZU REPAIR PROBLEMS
Commonly mistaken for an intake manifold leak, engine coolant leaks coming from the crossover pipe are a common problem in most Isuzu vehicles. One solution is to replace the coolant more often than what the manuals suggest. It is also possible that the engine crossover pipe needs to be replaced. Before doing the replacement, make sure that the engine has cooled to make the job easier and safer for you. Replace the exhaust hardware as well. Remember that nuts and bolt heads eventually corrode. Brand new washers will also ensure a leak-free connection.
Sometimes, the "Check Engine Light" will illuminate but there is really nothing wrong with your engine. False signals are just being sent to your vehicle's power train control module or PCM. To fix this, you must reflash the component. This procedure is similar to upgrading or repairing software in your computer. You will need a re-programmer and a subscription from your dealer's website-both can be easily purchased in online auto parts store.
The best solution is a transfer case replacement. To do this, you must first remove the center console and the ignition lockout cable from the shifter. The cable can be found in the passenger side of the main shifter mechanism. Disconnect the electrical connectors from the shifter assembly. Disconnect the link of the shifter to the transmission from under the hood. Remove the shifter assembly and the transfer case shift lever. As you do this, detach the front and rear driveshaft from the transfer case. Remember not to let the driveshafts slide apart. Next, unfasten the bolts that hold the transfer case in place. Carefully remove the transfer case by sliding it rearward. Now, place the new transfer case along with new transmission rear seal and lubricant for the transfer case shift mechanism. As you reinstall the bolts and secure the assembly, check for any rust pattern flanges on the driveshafts. Don't forget to replace the transfer case fluid as well.
If your rear window defroster is not working, the best thing to do is check the defroster grid, especially the terminal located at the sides of the grid. The terminal sometimes comes off, but this can be easily glued back. First, disconnect the wire from the terminal. Second, you have to purchase a special electrically conductive epoxy from auto parts stores. You also need to work in a heated garage, and the vehicle must be warmed up at over 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Before you start gluing back the terminal, clean with alcohol the area where you will work. Put a tape to protect the area where you don't want the epoxy. Prepare the epoxy according to the package directions. Next, place a small amount of epoxy on the defroster grid and on the bottom of the terminal. Now, hold the terminal in position. A toothpick works best to hold it in place until the epoxy dries up. This usually takes 10 to 15 minutes. Don't connect the wires just yet; wait up to 24 hours until the epoxy has fully set in.