First question - is this an automatic or standard transmission? If an automatic transmission, there is no transmission drain pan to remove - only a drain plug.
The steps are given below;
[Floor Jack/Scissor Jack + 2 Jack Stands] or 2 Ramps
3/8" Socket Wrench
6-8" Extension for the 12mm bolts.
8mm socket or a Phillips Screw Driver (you might need a different socket wrench or an adapter for the 8mm socket)
A Flat Head Screw Driver for the plastic clips
A Pair of Pliers for the Metal Clamp
25mm (1") socket for the drain bolt - metric will probably be more snug
A Breaker Bar or a 1/2" Socket Wrench for the Drain Bolt
Torque Wrench with a 23ft-lb setting and one that can use the 25mm socket. (optional)
At least 10-12 quarts of ATF.
Note: Depends on the amount of drain cycles, and on how dirty/old your fluid is. After the first three steps, you will drain 9 quarts and 8 ounces, but in total you may use a little over 12 quarts.
Drain Pan and a few empty containers for the old fluid.
Long and Narrow Funnel that can fit into the dip stick hole.
An old cardboard box laid flat, to capture any spills. (optional)
Some kind of a measuring contraption, such as a 4 pint (2 quart) jar.
Note: The filter is integrated into the transmission and is not meant to be replaced during regular service. It is also non accessible, and requires a complete overhaul in order to remove it. So don't bother looking for it.
1. You want to drive the car until it warms up, and cycle through all of the gears.
2. Check the level on the dipstick and confirm that it's at the full line. (read the manual on how to check your level).
Note: Automatic Transmissions are very sensitive towards fluid levels, so you want to make sure that it's dead on. Too much or too little will cause damage.
3. Jack up the front of the car, and set it on jack stands. You can also use ramps for this job. Don't forget to set the E-Brake and chock the rear wheels.
4. Remove the driver side splash shield underneath the front bumper.
5. Remove the wheel well splash shield (not the fender liner), in order to better expose the transmission cooler lines.
6. With the help of a pair of pliers, disconnect the return hose from the transmission. Make sure to have an oil pan ready to catch any spills.
7. Have your helper turn on the engine and shift the transmission into Neutral, while you point the return hose in your drain pan. Run the engine for no more than a minute, or until fluid stops coming out, whichever comes first.
8. Measure how much fluid is in your drain pan.
9. With the engine stopped, open the drain plug (right side of the transmission) and get the remaining fluid out.
10. Replace the gasket, clean off the magnet, and tighten the drain bolt to 23ft-lbs. (If you don't have a torque wrench, tighten it until it feels snug, but don't over do it. Keep in mind that you want to be able to remove it the next time you do this again)
11. Measure and record the total amount of fluid drained. (Return line + Drain Bolt).
12. Put the return hose back on(you don't have to use the metal clamp at this point), and refill the transmission with exactly the amount that was drained out. You might have to do some conversions, Google is your friend.
13. With the return hose connected, idle the engine for a few minutes and move the transmission shifter through all the gear (with your foot on the brake). This will mix the new fluid with the old.
14. Repeat steps 7 and 8. If you notice that your fluid is still contaminated, you can keep refilling/mixing/draining/refilling until the fluid comes out clean.
15. Connect the return hose back on using the clamp.
16. Put the splash shields on and lower the car.
17. Check your fluid level at the COLD mark, for reference. The dipstick has two different levels, hot and cold. If it looks good, go for a short drive and go through all of the gears.
18. Recheck your fluid level, when it's hot. Add or drain as necessary.