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Oldsmobile brakes repair questions and answers

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  • AutoMD Member
    AutoMD Member - 1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue - Brakes - 3/4/2014
    Brake issues with a 98 intrigue
    Soft brake pedal, will not engage at all until pedal is almost to the floor. If ABS should kick in, there is a loud rattle but ABS does not engage or pulse. Tried to bleed the brakes and ABS module, when I opened the bleeder to the front ABS cylinder and front ...
     
    • bear.1216
      3/4/2014 bear.1216
      Sounds like a bad master cylinder. Check for leaks around the master and ABS hydraulic unit. Check for fluid inside the brake power booster also. You likely have a seal leaking on the master cylinder or an internal leak in the master or ABS module. Pull the vacuum check valve on the booster to check for fluid inside. You can try bleeding the master cylinder to see if it is pushing fluid. You could also have a stuck valve in the ABS module.
  • AutoMD Member
    AutoMD Member - 1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue - Brakes - 3/2/2014
    Brake issues with a 98 intrigue
    Brake pedal is soft and goes to the floor before it barely engages. tried bleeding brakes front bleeder on abs module and front driver side have no fluid coming out of them. from what I can tell there are no visible leaks, but the brake fluid reservoir keeps ...
     
    • alex
      3/2/2014 alex
      it could be leaking into the cab check the carpet where the break pedal linkage goes through the firewall also bleed it have someone hold on the brakes while you check for leaks.
  • AutoMD Member
    AutoMD Member - 1995 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme - Brakes - 2/15/2014
    Replaced rear pads, when I pressed emergency brake in, in order to tighten wheel lugs, the tire didn't stop.
    It also acts like it needs to be bled when I apply the brakes, a big swoosh noise comes from the pedal and I have to press it to floor to stop. Any Ideas?
     
    • HouseCallAuto
      2/15/2014 HouseCallAuto
      The rear caliper piston actuator lever has to be indexed so that it has the shortest amount of movement to make pads stop the rotor. Otherwise the pedal travel will be too far because it is using all the pedal travel to move the piston out too far. Keep in mind that one inch of pedal travel equals about an 1/8" of piston movement or something like that, so if the brake pad is like 3/16" away from the surface of the rotor at the inner and outer pad, that translates to 3 inches of pedal movement...
    • AutoMD Member
      2/15/2014 AutoMD Member
      I should also add that when I went to compress my rear drivers side piston I turned it the wrong way and it became very loose. I screwed it back into place and all was well. While driving and trying to reset brake position I heard a loud spraying noise coming from my rear passenger side though no fluid appeared on the ground?
  • Bob DeMaris
    Bob DeMaris - 1992 Oldsmobile 88 - Brakes - 10/17/2013
    Soft pedal, slow pedal
    Soft pedal...goes down to 3/4s of the way down and then it seems like you have to press harder to stop the vehicle...
     
  • fugate49
    fugate49 - 1994 Oldsmobile 88 - Brakes - 10/12/2013
    Is it normal for one hub to get hot and the others to stay cool
    thie car has anti lock brakes,three of the hubs are cool to the touch but one is getting really hot does this mean i only have one brake working or is the one getting hot sticking,my anti-lock brake light stays on all the time. hope some one can help thanks
     
    • HouseCallAuto
      10/12/2013 HouseCallAuto
      To get a better idea of what is happening, use an infrared thermometer rather than touch and update post with actual temperatures. If this is really what is happening then yes you have a bad caliper or a bad brake hose on one side most likely.
  • jwier48
    jwier48 - 2000 Oldsmobile Bravada - Brakes - 9/23/2013
    Brake problems ,replaced brake booster and brake master cylender and cant move shifter out of park
    no brake pedal after replaceing brake booster and brake master cylender,also wont shift shifter out of park
     
    • bear.1216
      9/23/2013 bear.1216
      Why was master and booster replaced. Master cylinder needs to be bench bled and then bleed all 4 brakes. Was the system bled properly. Check the brake pedal pushrod and brake pedal switch. They may be out of adjustment or disconnected since the booster was replaced.
  • jwier48
    jwier48 - 2000 Oldsmobile Bravada - Brakes - 9/19/2013
    Brake problems ;no pedal,wont go in to drive when i try to get shifter to come out of park
    i replaced brake booster and brake master cylender,i bled master cylender and dont have much brake,it wont go into gear either,is there a safety switch on these bravadas when the brake pedal is down too low
     
    • HouseCallAuto
      9/19/2013 HouseCallAuto
      What happened is when you were working under the dash unbolting the brake booster you either knocked / disturbed the connector or the brake light switch or knocked the brake light switch out of adjustment. Keep in mind that the shifter interlock works off of the brake light circuit which begins at the brake light switch. So, if you kill the brake light switch you will not be able to take it out of park.
    • HouseCallAuto
      9/19/2013 HouseCallAuto
      As far as your no pedal situation you still have air in the system. I hope you bench bled the master before installing it.
  • glowing_sunset
    glowing_sunset - 2001 Oldsmobile Alero - Brakes - 9/2/2013
    ABS/TRAC OFF, BRAKE light intermittently coming on
    My ABS/TRAC OFF lights came on at the beginning of June, had both front hub assemblies replaced. lights started coming on again, but when I'd restart my car, they would go off. Brake warning light would intermittently come on after idling for a long time, so I had ...
     
    • bear.1216
      9/2/2013 bear.1216
      You should have your vehicle scanned for ABS trouble codes. The code number will tell where to start.
  • mac41
    mac41 - 1999 Oldsmobile Alero - Brakes - 8/24/2013
    What causes on pressure to rear disc brakes
    anti-lock, trac & brake lights on i had someone pump the brakes the pistons did not move openend bleed valve no fluid came out
     
    • CVO
      8/24/2013 CVO
      The flexible brake hose at the rear brake caliper is plugged up with residue, replace it as necessary.
  • mac41
    mac41 - 1999 Oldsmobile Alero - Brakes - 8/24/2013
    What causes no pressure to rear brakes
    anti lock, trac & brake lights on i had someone pump brakes pistons did not move openend bleed valve no fluid came out
     
    • Jimm
      8/24/2013 Jimm
      Check the following items; collapsed flexible brake hose at the rear brake caliper, fluid leak (internal) at the brake master cylinder or power brake booster unit.
  • jeffross
    jeffross - 2002 Oldsmobile Alero - Brakes - 7/27/2013
    Trac, abs and service engine soon lights are on and the brakes are not working right
    a new pigtale for the sencer was installed by mechanic but it did nothing to fix the problem. the abs tries to take over while brakeing and at hwy speeds the application of brakes make the whole front end shudder and shake, very unsafe. my mechanic does not know ...
     
    • wbrockstar
      7/27/2013 wbrockstar
      Heres your problem
      One of your wheel bearing hub assemblys/speed sensor has gone out.Unless you can tell by listening to which side/end of the car noise or sensation is coming from,take it to autozone and get them to scan for trouble codes.This is the only sure way of knowing whether its your driver front,rear or passenger front or rear wheel bearing hub assembly/speed sensor.This hub assembly includes both the wheel bearing and speed sensor-theyre not seperate parts
  • recebba1
    recebba1 - 1999 Oldsmobile Alero - Brakes - 7/18/2013
    Need help with bleeding hints
    I had to replace a right front brake line bleed the system all is well but I blew another one in the process. I have now replaced the left front line. With the car off the pedal gets hard but once the car is running the pedal gets very soft again. Any Ideas?
     
    • wbrockstar
      7/17/2013 wbrockstar
      Are you saying that the pedal is alot softer than you remember it bein before you had the brake line replaced?It will be softer when the cars runnin than when its not runnin due to having power brake assist.Did you bleed the whole car after replacing the second line?Do the RR then LR then RF then LF in this order.If you just bleeded the line you replaced,it couldve got air in another part of the system.You can also check your vacuum line and booster check valve attached to the front of your brake booster for any leaks
      wbrockstar
      7/17/2013 recebba1
      It is now almost non existent when running goes all the way to the floor to stop. I did bleed the whole system rr lr rf lf . then in reading found that the manufacture recommends rr rf lr lf so I went that way as well and still the same result. just did the booster checks and all came out the way it should have.
    • wbrockstar
      7/17/2013 wbrockstar
      Im assuming you checked the pads while you had the wheel off.Ive bleed brakes before then had to turn right around and replace pads.Caliper piston could be sticking,and couldve caused your brake line to rupture because the excessive pressure tryin to force the piston/caliper back into position.The master cylinder could also be bad/leaking internally,which would cause no brake pedal.Last thing will be abs module(if your car has anti lock brakes)
      wbrockstar
      7/17/2013 recebba1
      yeah checked pads also made sure calipers were working while I was there retracted them all and wiggled. I read that you can test the master by pumping up the pedel with the car off and ho;ding it if it sinks then something is wrong with the master tried that and got nothing. I does have abs I have tried the abs bleed that I read but there is one line that I can not get broke to bleed.
    • wbrockstar
      7/17/2013 wbrockstar
      When you checked calipers you said you retracted them which verifies they released if theyre wiggling.Did you put something against brake pedal to hold it down while you visually see if they are closing against rotor too?Just curious because of the brake line ruptures.Seems like the hoses were put under excessive pressure to make em rupture.Several master cylinder checks can be done to guarantee your vent holes arent clogged,etc
      wbrockstar
      7/18/2013 recebba1
      was not the hoses it was the metal line I replaced. They had rusted through. I have my son to help with that he pushed the pedal for me.
    • All Season
      7/18/2013 All Season
      Hello this should have been a simple fix, Line replacement system bleed top fluid back off and be on your way. I have to be honest your question got me thinking...First back to square 1, this is important What shape where Both Front lines in ? The other you say pedal is hard Yes all power brake systems are that way when not running...telling me well having me ask How did you bleed your system. Personally I always have a Car running and a Helping Hand in this case Foot lol or pressure to the Master Cly. If as you replied to rockstar that all checks out it sounds like you still have Air in the system Did you happen to let the Master Cly. run out of Fluid or low as if you jacked up the car and air got back in the system by way of MC. At this point I would just check for any leaks again but fill and re-bleed the system with Help. Do inspect the blown lines asap. There is more but going by what I have read I will wait to see how you make out. ps: Do the Fronts First then the Backs.. put the book aside this round Good Luck !
      All Season
      7/18/2013 recebba1
      I know that I did not let it run dry but with all that's going on I wonder if my nephew did. I think I am going to have to pull it off and bleed it to be sure. Its the only thing I can think of.
      All Season
      8/3/2013 All Season
      Sorry for the gap with reply, I hope to hear you say by now You have this Fixed ? If not I will have to get some more details and I don't mind Helping you with this issue. Busy as well & extra time I helped setup a friends Shop, Front Ends Only. Hope all worked out, Please let me know you have me concerned. Pulling to Bleed if u mean MC time wasted, I do on bench when replacing. So rusted lines I got ya, ARE YOU FIXED UP & RUNNING YET ? I hope so. Been awhile now. Do let me know Ok Thanks
      All Season
      8/3/2013 recebba1
      Yeah sort of I bench bled the mc and bled the lines car off then car on. I got more of a pedal than I had. Been driving it and that seems to have helped the seem to have firmed up with driving even more so I think I am good for now. Thank you for your time though. Good luck in all that you do.
  • ccolemank
    ccolemank - 1994 Oldsmobile Bravada - Brakes - 6/23/2013
    Brake lights won't work. I change the bulb and fuse still does not work
     
    • CVO
      6/23/2013 CVO
      Stoplight switch directs current to the stop lights, cruise control, and shift interlock to turn them on or off
      When not replaced, stop lights will run continually or not function, potentially causing premature bulb failure, safety issues and/or the transmission will not shift out of park.
      Check the Stoplight Switch
      For your 1994 Oldsmobile Truck Bravada AWD 4.3L CPI 6cyl
      Replace it as necessary.
  • garrickcc
    garrickcc - 2002 Oldsmobile Alero - Brakes - 5/28/2013
    Clunk/knock when applying brakes
    When i push in my brake pedal there is a loud knocking or clunk sound coming from the right side wheel.. doesn't matter if i'm moving, or not. It will do several knocks/clunks as a push the break in further.. Also sounds like its coming from the pedal to, but you ...
     
    • CVO
      5/28/2013 CVO
      Safely raise and support the vehicle. Remove the wheel and inspect the brake caliper bolts to make sure there is not a loose caliper.
  • pasqualsudat
    pasqualsudat - 1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass - Brakes - 3/23/2013
    Brakes stick. How much to fix the problem