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Mini steering & suspension repair questions and answers

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11 Questions
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  • hobhick
    hobhick - 2008 Mini Cooper - Steering & Suspension - 11/10/2014
    Car makes a scraping sound at low speeds
    Have manual transmission and.when shift into lower gears car makes high pitch scrapimg sound that has gotten progressively more frequent and although it started out at low volume has increased in last month
    0 answer
  • AutoMD Member
    AutoMD Member - 2006 Mini Cooper - Steering & Suspension - 1/16/2014
    Is there any different between automatic and manual gear for AXLE BOOTS ???
    i want to change my axle boots for my 2006 mini cooper , so i want to know is there any different between auto and manual for the parts ?? please feed me back ASAP :)
    • Jimm
      1/16/2014 Jimm
      No difference between the CV boots whether automatic or manual transmission - however, there will be a difference in the CV boot position; inner or outer.
    • HouseCallAuto
      1/16/2014 HouseCallAuto
      Changing axle boots in ok to do to save on parts as long as the axle cv joints are not already clicking noisy on turns.
  • quanross
    quanross - 2004 Mini Cooper - Steering & Suspension - 10/12/2012
    What is a ballpark replacement cost for front control arms and bushings?
    Im in cincinnati OH
    0 answer
  • stephen
    stephen - 2005 Mini Cooper - Steering & Suspension - 8/22/2012
    . Recently when I have started the engine the power hasnt activated
    44,000 miles. as described above, and the power steering has also disengaged once at a junction
    0 answer
  • Rick
    Rick - 2003 Mini Cooper - Steering & Suspension - 5/30/2012
    • DH
      5/30/2012 DH
      sounds like the power steering pump needs replaced, i have a mini and while driving it the steering would lock up where it was real hard to turn. i had power steering pump replaced.
  • phil stys
    phil stys - 2003 Mini Cooper - Steering & Suspension - 3/26/2012
    Air conditioning does does blow but not very cold have replaced various parta plus compressor
    0 answer
  • Sonya
    Sonya - 2004 Mini Cooper - Steering & Suspension - 1/2/2012
    "What can I do when Corporation and Mini Dealer will not address recall issues with my 2004 Mini Cooper?"
    Recalls are documented and have been noted with NHTSA. Please advise and assist! Thank you! Sonya
    • Jimm
      1/2/2012 Jimm
      It depends if the recalls apply to your vehicle - often the recalls may apply to only certain VIN number vehicles. Anyway, given the application is correct for your vehicle, you may take the recall information directly to the NHTSA and provide them with the dealership details and corporate contact information. They (NHTSA) will usually contact the organizations on your behalf to gain resolution.
      1/2/2012 Sonya
      Thanks Jim!
  • wshaw
    wshaw - 2009 Mini Cooper - Steering & Suspension - 12/28/2011
    Our car tends to pull to the right even after a re-alignment. What else could cause the pull?
    We've heard about cracked bushings on Minis that can be a problem. We have tried rotating tires.
    • RC
      12/28/2011 RC
      Tires and alignment are the most common causes. Isn't a 2009 vehicle still under warranty???
      12/28/2011 wshaw
      Yes, warranty is still good but we have the car a long way from a dealer. We spoke with a local BMW mechanic who told us about bushings that can crack on Minis. Tire wear is abnormal so we're hoping to get some improvement before a long trip to a Mini service shop.
  • fredrepair
    fredrepair - 2002 Mini Cooper - Steering & Suspension - 2/6/2011
    Left low beam does not work
    • Bender
      2/6/2011 Bender
      If you bench tested the bulb or switched them to test. And your right low beam is working properly you need to check 2 things.

      First grab a 12 volt test light and turn on lights. making sure the tester is properly grounded then put on high beams and check the plug on the car. there should be 3 prong hole. 1 of the holes should make the test light come on. if it does the turn on low beams and check the other 2 prongs. If your test light comes on then you have a bad ground. if not you have either a bad switch or bad wire. probably a bad wire. Check the wire's as far as you can. looking for an exposed spot or break in the wire. if you find nothing the u should change the headlight switch. If this doesn't help your last resort is to the it to an automotive electrical shop to find the break in the wire between the switch, firewall or plug.

      85% of the time this fails because of the ground.
  • Millie
    Millie - 2006 Mini Cooper - Steering & Suspension - 2/6/2011
    What is wrong when after balancing the car twice, the car still shims?
    they inserted a part between the wheel and tire, balanced before and after, could this be the problem?
    • yboy82
      2/6/2011 yboy82
      The other things you should check is your wheel bearings (it might be loose/worn), tie rod ends (maybe worn), strut bushings (maybe loose/worn), upper control arm ball joint (might be loose/worn) and shock absorber (might be worn). That if your tires don’t have any uneven wear and the caster is already check and adjustment is already done.
    • Bender
      2/6/2011 Bender
      One of the most common problems I have found which are manifested by excess vibration in the area of tire/wheel that is not cured by rebalancing has to do with the condition of the tire. If a tire that is out-of-round is balanced, the out-of-round condition is not cured. What that means is that, while the balancing ensures that the tire/wheel assembly will not deviate abnormally from the forward/backward plane as you drive(side-to-side), there exists nothing to prevent its up-and-down movement due to its shape(oval or ellipsoid). Another common problem, potentially dangerous, is tire separation. Should a tire begin to separate, that separation may not be readily apparent without a road-test, at which time it will be noticed that the steering wheel shakes violently when certain road speeds are reached. To locate the offending tire, it is advisable to move the front tires, one at a time, to the rear of the car. In so doing, you should notice a distinct difference in the car's behavior when driven once the culprit is moved from the front. Note: If you have just had your tires replaced and the wheels balanced, there may be another explanation for the problem, assuming it did not exist prior to this: The stub-end of an old tire-valve trapped inside the tire. I have encountered this problem at various times; and, what happens is this: The tire purchase is made, and the tire man pulls your wheels off of your car. The wheel/tire assembly is put onto the tire machine, and the valve core is removed from the valve, letting the air escape so that the tire may be dismounted. The tire is then removed from the wheel. A new tire is now chosen and mounted onto the wheel. Next up is a new valve. The replacing tool is screwed onto the old valve, which is then pulled free from the wheel, out of its hole. Most of these do not come out whole. The "bottom"? Well, that falls innocently away. A new tire valve is now installed, being pulled into place with the same tool used to remove the old one. The tire is then aired-up, sealing the bead, and is moved to the balancing machine, where it is spun by computer-control and indexed for weights to be attached.

  • whorl1quote
    whorl1quote - 2004 Mini Cooper - Steering & Suspension - 12/23/2010
    Replacing control arm bushings or tire alignment cause bearing to go bad?
    My Mini cooper is making such big noises that I can't continue to ignore so I took it to the shop. I was told the front wheel bearing needs to get replaced. The whole noise started when I took the car for the the following repairs and tire alignment six month ago. I ...
    • RC
      12/23/2010 RC
      I doubt that the repairs caused the bearing to go bad. Maybe the shop wrongly diagnosed the noises, and the wheel bearings needed to be replaced instead of the other components... It's always a good idea to ask for the old parts back when you have repairs done.