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Mercury transmissions & drivetrains repair questions and answers

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  • sbarrera020362
    sbarrera020362 - 2004 Mercury Monterey - Transmissions & Drivetrains - 4/20/2012
    It wont reverse nor drive foward
    0 answer
  • Henry
    Henry - 1996 Mercury Sable - Transmissions & Drivetrains - 4/18/2012
    Will not shift out of first gear
    changed the three shift solenoids filter and fluid can shift car from park to reverse no problem when shifted iton drive it wont shift from first to anyother gear
    0 answer
  • Penny Montgomery
    Penny Montgomery - 2002 Mercury Mountaineer - Transmissions & Drivetrains - 4/18/2012
    How do you know when a bearing goes out?
    • rick
      4/18/2012 rick
      Many different ways . But what bearing ? All do something different hooked to different things . Tell us what is going on so we can help .
      5/2/2012 Penny Montgomery
      I took it in and got that took care of now i have a shimmy in the front when i get it up to 45 miles per hour?
  • sonny
    sonny - 1995 Mercury Sable - Transmissions & Drivetrains - 4/16/2012
    After starting car i cant put in drive
    I put in a new brake lite switch and a 40 amp fues. it worked fine for 2 days then it blew the 40 amp fues
    • Spoon Sports
      2/28/2012 Spoon Sports
      If the fuse keeps blowing it means that there is a fault somewhere on the circuit and the faulty device should be repaired/replaced. You have to trace it, what does the 40 amp fuse power?
    • Bart
      4/16/2012 Bart
      have same prob on 04 Marquis..noticed 2 wires from reg brake sw/ to another sw/ that twists upon depressing pedal...can'i get brake lites to work...are all these connected ???
  • AutoMD Member
    AutoMD Member - 2003 Mercury Sable - Transmissions & Drivetrains - 4/13/2012
    My car just was running fine. and then she made a Real loud scream and then I had no foreword or backward motion
    but she was still running
    0 answer
  • Josh
    Josh - 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis - Transmissions & Drivetrains - 4/3/2012
    I want to know wether i have a catalyst or transmission problem or something else?
    my car sat for 15 months. I just fired it back up after changing the fuel pump & filter, oil change as well as coolant flush and replaced the belt. i drove it around the block. It smelled like gun powder . i then took it to wash the engine and under carriage due to ...
    • yboy82
      4/3/2012 yboy82
      Even if your check engine light is off, you should still diagnose your vehicle with a scan tool/code reader. It is the only way to verify if there's a stored troublecode in your vehicle and if all your electrical connectors and controls are still functioning well.
      4/3/2012 Josh
      Thanks for the advice. I'm definitely doing that.
  • john
    • yboy82
      3/23/2012 yboy82
      Here's how to remove the shift cable in your vehicle

      First remove the shift knob, locknut, console, bezel assembly, control cable clip and cable retaining pin.

      And then disengage the rubber grommet from the floor pan by pushing it into the engine compartment. Raise the car and safely support it on jackstands.

      Remove the retaining nut and control cable assembly from the transaxle lever. Remove the control cable bracket bolts. Pull the cable through the floor.
      3/23/2012 john
  • TwinturboS4
    TwinturboS4 - 2000 Mercury Cougar - Transmissions & Drivetrains - 3/23/2012
    When I accelerate I can hear and feel something grinding from the front left. What is causing this?
    The car is slower because of this.
    • EG9 K20A3
      3/23/2012 EG9 K20A3
      it could be brakes or wheel bearings from what you have said either one. If you have a bad caliper it can eat a set of pads in less than a month
  • wayne
    wayne - 2001 Mercury Cougar - Transmissions & Drivetrains - 3/7/2012
    Car won't engage in D, only in R, 2 or 1?
    0 answer
  • couchd22
    0 answer
  • couchd22
    0 answer
  • tamara
    tamara - 2001 Mercury Grand Marquis - Transmissions & Drivetrains - 3/1/2012
    What is the piece called located under the steeering wheel? That cranks the car.
    won't crank
    • Camarozen
      3/1/2012 Camarozen
      There are several components that make up the engine starter circiut, careful troubleshooting of all the components is often necessary in determining the faulty component. The battery, battery cables, starter, starter solenoid, ignition switch, neutural safety switch, and ECU all play a role in the starting circuit. Of these, the ignition switch and ECU are in the passenger cabin, sometimes located under the dash. The neutural safety switch location varies, although it is normally part of the transmission or shift linkage. Can you be more specific with the sting problem? Does it make any noise when you turn the key to start? Have you had issues with the battery recently?
  • linda
    linda - 1995 Mercury Tracer - Transmissions & Drivetrains - 3/1/2012
    My mercury tracer will not start the engine turns over but it will not go into gear.
    we replaced the neutral safety switch help! what else could be wrong?
  • shani
    shani - 2001 Mercury Sable - Transmissions & Drivetrains - 2/29/2012
    My car will crank but wont start what could be the problem
    • Spoon Sports
      2/29/2012 Spoon Sports
      * Engine Cranks but won’t Start

      Probable Causes:

      * Fuel Pump (P0230 to P0233)
      * PCM (P0600 to P0606)
      * Crank Sensor (P0355 to P0399)
      * Fuel Pressure (P0190 to P0194)

      Chances are the Check Engine Light is not on, but you may find any of the following codes:

      * P0230 to P0233 Fuel Pump codes
      * P0600 to P0606 PCM related codes
      * P0335 to P0339 Crank Sensor codes
      * P0190 to P0194 Fuel Pressure Sensor codes

      No spark due to a bad crank position sensor, a faulty ignition module or PCM, a problem in the ignition circuit (ignition switch, antitheft system, wiring, etc.), a faulty park/neutral safety switch, a bad ignition coil (only on engines with a single coil ignition), or wet plugs or plug wires (did it rain last night, did you just wash the engine?)

      A less common cause is a worn starter that draws so many amps while cranking the engine that there’s not enough juice left to adequately power the ignition system and fuel injectors. Contributing factors might be a weak battery and/or loose or corroded battery cables.

      No fuel because of a dead fuel pump, bad fuel pump relay, blown fuel pump fuse, plugged fuel filter or line, or failed PCM injector driver circuit or injector power supply relay. Or, the fuel tank might be empty (don’t believe what the gauge is telling you), or the fuel tank might contain contaminated fuel (water or too much alcohol) or the wrong type of fuel (whoops, somebody put in diesel instead of gasoline).

      No compression because the timing belt or chain is broken, the timing belt or chain is loose and jumped out of time, or the overhead camshaft has snapped. A powerful scantool like AutoTap Express DIY can help isolate the root cause by capturing this information.

      The first step is to determine if it’s a spark, fuel, or compression problem. Here’s a quick way to find out which of the three is missing. Remove a plug wire, insert a Phillips screwdriver or spare plug piece of bare wire into the plug wire boot and place the end near the engine block (do not hold the plug wire while cranking the engine unless you want a shocking experience). If there’s a spark when the engine is cranked, it has ignition. The problem is either fuel or compression. If the engine has an overhead cam with a timing belt, loosen the cover over the timing belt and check the belt. If the belt is okay, the problem is no fuel. Listen for the electric fuel pump in the fuel tank to make a buzzing noise when the ignition is turned on (you may have to open the gas cap to hear it). You won’t hear anything if the pump has died. Diagnostics can now be focused on the fuel pump circuit to determine if the pump, relay or wiring is causing the no start. If the relay has voltage but the pump isn’t running, you’ll probably have to drop the fuel tank to check the wiring connector at the pump. If the problem is no spark, anything in the ignition circuit that creates the spark may be at fault. Use your AutoTap Express DIY to look for an RPM signal from the Crankshaft Position sensor while cranking the engine. A bad Crankshaft Position sensor is a common cause of no starts. The signal from this sensor goes to the PCM or ignition module that switches the ignition coil(s) on and off. If you have an RPM signal, a bad ignition module or PCM may not be switching the coil(s) on and off. Using a voltmeter, check for voltage at the coils with the key on and while cranking the engine. The voltage should be switching on and off. In ignition systems with a single coil and distributor, a bad coil or a cracked distributor cap or rotor can prevent the spark plugs from firing. On multi-coil, distributorless ignition systems and coil-on-plug systems; one coil failure may cause an engine to misfire, but it won't prevent it from starting. What’s causing the no-start? All engines require three things to start and run: spark, fuel and compression. If any one of these isn’t there, you aren’t going anywhere.