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Honda brakes repair questions and answers

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327 Questions
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  • Jeff
    • CVO
      11/19/2010 CVO
      Re-surfacing the rotors will remove the old braking or damage marks left in the rotors from the old braking pads. The new rotor surfaces will have a better braking with the new pads. Hope this helps and be safe.HAPPY HOLIDAYS.
  • chris
    chris - 1993 Honda Prelude - Brakes - 11/9/2010
    How to replace front brake pads
    • CVO
      11/9/2010 CVO has the procs and the pics for the project. Login_year of the car_enter" brake pads" in the product search box, click on the vehicule repair guides. Hope this helps and be safe.
  • ralph
    ralph - 1998 Honda Civic - Brakes - 11/9/2010
    Rear drum brake makes a whop whop noise with no brake, stops when brake applied, now bad pulsation with high speed brake
    Recently did a complete replacement on the rear brakes, shoe and drums. All was fine. A few weeks after install the right rear brake started making a sound, a faint whop whop whop, that stopped when the brakes were applied and resumed as soon as the pedal was ...
    • HouseCallAuto
      11/9/2010 HouseCallAuto
      Jack up the rear wheel and see if the drum spins freely or if it is binding somewhat. The shoes may be overadjusted and you may have an out of round drum from excessive heat or drag. The parking brake cable may be frozen and not releasing the brake as well.
  • Jeanette
    • Bill
      11/6/2010 Bill
      could be a bad brake caliper or wheel bearing. When wheel jacked up does it wobble and/or does it turn easily by hand with no apparent noise like a scraping sound?
    • CVO
      11/6/2010 CVO
      Dragging brakes are brakes that remain partially applied even though the brake pedal is released. The brakes will overheat if the car is driven very far. To detect dragging brakes, feel each wheel assembly .
      Dragging brakes can be caused by frozen wheel cylinder pistons. Hope this helps and be safe.
  • John Hand
    John Hand - 2003 Honda Pilot - Brakes - 11/4/2010
    What type of disc brake pads does Honda use; Ceramic or Metallic?
    Are after market products as good as Original Honda.
  • John Hand
    John Hand - 2003 Honda Pilot - Brakes - 11/4/2010
    What type of disc brake pads does Honda use; Ceramic or Metallic?
    Are after market products as good as Original Honda.
    • churchson
      11/4/2010 churchson
      Original equipment is ceramic. I have had good luck with aftermarket pads and rotors, but usually have to order the rotors.
  • percy
    • HouseCallAuto
      11/1/2010 HouseCallAuto
      +Try loosening the mounting bolts for the master cylinder and back the master off and see if it resolves.
  • Ron
    • HouseCallAuto
      10/6/2010 HouseCallAuto

      1. When the problem occurs, loosen the master cylinder and pull it away from the booster. If the brakes back off, check the pushrod adjustment in the booster.

      2. Loosen the brake line from the master cylinder. If the brakes back off, then the master cylinder is faulty.
  • steven
    steven - 1995 Honda Civic - Brakes - 10/6/2010
    When I break, turn signal turns on
    • Pave Low
      10/6/2010 Pave Low
      A bad ground, look at the sockets. Look for the wire, sometimes there is more than one ground. Once you found the wires, use a jumper, one end on a good ground toouch the other one on the base of each socket. If it stops, you got your culprit. Or use a test light on each socket.
  • ohjoy
    ohjoy - 1999 Honda Accord - Brakes - 10/5/2010
    I have a 1999 Honda Accord V6 and the brake lights do not work. Have checked all fuses and can shift out of park fine.
    What else could cause my brake lights to not come on? I read that if I couldnt shift out of park then it would be the brake light switch. I shift fine.
    • Ray
      10/5/2010 Ray
      Check the switch, bulbs, and wiring.
    • Bobby
      10/5/2010 Bobby
      Hmm not always the case some times the brake safety switch and the brake light switch can be seperate. But first thing first check the brake light bulbs, there is a chance they just happened to go out together. next if a new bulb does not work you'll need to test the socket for power if no power then I would check the brake light switch, even though someone said it has to lock up the shift also doesn't mean it is the case. Part of the switch can go bad or sometimes the vehicle has two seperate switches for each function. I wouldn't rule that out yet until after you test it
    • HouseCallAuto
      10/5/2010 HouseCallAuto
      brake light bulbs is likely
  • esmeralda
    esmeralda - 1996 Honda Accord - Brakes - 10/1/2010
    How can i remove the front disc off the base of the transmition shaft?
    0 answer
  • dtganiere
    • Pave Low
      9/28/2010 Pave Low
      I know you have done steps 1-4, just focus onwards since it has tecniques on how to remove it

      * Floor jack
      * Jack stand
      * Wheel chock
      * Turkey baster
      * DOT 3 brake fluid
      * 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
      * 1/2-inch drive metric socket set
      * 1/2-inch drive ratchet
      * Flathead screwdriver
      * Impact screwdriver with Phillips head bit
      * Hammer
      * Bungee cord
      * Lubricant spray
      * Brake clean spray
      * Large C-clamp
      * New rotors
      * 8-by-1.25 mm bolts (2)
      * Emery cloth or light grade sandpaper
      * Shop rags
      * 1/2-inch drive adjustable torque wrench
      Place a wheel chock behind one of the rear tires. Open the hood and remove the master cylinder cap and suck out 1/2 of the brake fluid from the reservoir using a turkey baster. Discard appropriately and replace the master cylinder cap.

      Break the lug nuts loose on the front tires using a breaker bar and a socket.

      Lift the left front quarter panel with the floor jack and place the jack stand under the front left frame rail of the CR-V. Remove the lug nuts and wheel.

      Remove the caliper guide bolts using a ratchet and a socket. Pry the caliper off of the rotor using a flathead screwdriver. Support the caliper to the chassis using bungee cord so it does not dangle from the brake hose. Compress the piston of the caliper inward using a C-clamp until the piston is bottomed out in the housing of the caliper, then remove the C-clamp.

      Remove the pads from the caliper anchor, but establish a relationship with the pads and their position in the anchor. If you're not replacing the pads with new pads, you'll need to replace them in the same position they were removed.

      Remove the caliper anchor bolts with the ratchet and a socket. Use the breaker bar to help you break them loose, then switch to the ratchet to speed things up.

      Remove the two retaining screws on the hub face of the rotor using the impact screwdriver with a Phillips head bit and and hammer. Strike the screwdriver in the reverse position on the head with the hammer to loosen the screws, then remove them.

      Spray lubricant spray into the other two smaller screw holes on the face hub of the rotor. Screw in the two 8-by-1.25 mm screws by hand until they bottom out on the flange of the hub. Using the ratchet and a socket, tighten each one screw two times, then switch to the next and alternate until the rotor breaks free from the hub.

      Clean the flange of the hub using an emery cloth or light grade sandpaper. Remove and rust or uneven areas caused by rust or corrosion. A hand-held rechargeable angled drill with a reconditioning disc and adapter would work nice, but most people don't have these available.

      Spray the new rotor with brake clean spray to remove the rust preventative coating. Spray both sides liberally and wipe dry with a shop rag.

      Place the new rotor onto the hub and use one lug nut to hold the rotor in place by tightening it on a lug stud away from the caliper and anchor.

      Replace the caliper anchor and bolts. Tighten the bolt to 120 foot pounds with the adjustable torque wrench and a socket. Replace the pads into the anchor the same way they came out.

      Place the caliper onto the pads and rotor and replace the caliper guide bolts and tighten. Remove the lug nut from the lug stud and replace the wheel and lug nuts. Tighten the lug nuts flush to the hub, then lower the CR-V and tighten the lug nuts alternately with the adjustable torque wrench set at 80 foot pounds and a socket.

      Repeat steps 4-14 for the right side rotor.

      Lower the CR-V back on the ground and pump the foot brake pedal several times to restore the hydraulic pressure back into the compressed caliper pistons.

      Recheck and adjust the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir and add only new DOT 3 brake fluid.

      Replace the cap, close the hood, remove the wheel chock, release the parking brake and test drive.

    • HouseCallAuto
      9/28/2010 HouseCallAuto
      You will see two threaded holes in the rotor (8mm X 1.25) thread in two bolts that will help "push" the rotor away from the hub. Thread the two bolts in evenly, then smack the rotor. Obviously you must have already removed the two phillips screws that retain the rotors?
  • scotia
    scotia - 2001 Honda Accord - Brakes - 9/28/2010
    How do I replace rear O2 Sensor
    already replaced front sensor but engine light is still on after resetting
    • Ray
      9/28/2010 Ray
      The rear sensor is replaced in the same manner. What was the code?
  • ajwaltz
    ajwaltz - 1999 Honda Accord - Brakes - 9/27/2010
    When I accelerate I hear a ringing winding sound coming from rear. I jacked up rear and spun tire and I hear the noise ?
    190,000 miles , I noticed bout 3-4 weeks ago thought it was coming from front . I changed brake pads on front 1st time ever doing something like that. Is the rear the same ? The maintenance light is on . But its been on, hell I reset the dam thing and it stays on. I ...
    • AutoServiceTech@TCTC
      It could be the pads in the back are so wore out the metal are scraping the rotor. Are they drum or disc brakes? Either way if it is the pads you should replace them soon or it will ruin the rotor or drum
  • Pathfinder
    Pathfinder - 1981 Honda Civic - Brakes - 9/23/2010
    No breaking ..pedal goes all the way down
    Bled the brakes not much what do I check??
    • Ray
      9/23/2010 Ray
      If there is no air in the system and there are no leaks, then the master cylinder is the probable cause.
    • ROBERT
      9/23/2010 ROBERT
      Was there any prior work performed on the vehicle for the brake system? There can still be air in the system if the brakes were not bled properly. There are bleeding procedures/bleeding sequences for different manufacturers. I would recommend bleeding the brake system starting at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder. R/R WHEEL, L/R WHEEL, R/F WHEEL, L/F WHEEL. Also verify that there are no leaks from the Master Cylinder, Calipers, Wheel Cylinders, and Brake Lines. If everything is ok, there can be an internal leak in the Master Cylinder and you would have to replace and bench bleed it before installing it on your vehicle. This is a simple procedure but must be done correctly or you can damage the new master cylinder. Then I would bleed the entire system again.