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Dodge brakes repair questions and answers

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  • stormy5475
    stormy5475 - 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan - Brakes - 11/30/2010
    My 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan's Traction Control will turn itself off and the ABS light will come on while driving.
    Vehicle has 107000 miles. Symptoms started after brake fluid was added. Engine temperature does not seem to matter.
    • Kode_aurora
      11/30/2010 Kode_aurora
      when is the last time you replaced your brake pads . or rotor. worn brake pad or rotor on chryslers vehicle trigger the abs light to come on
  • Richi
    • mopar
      11/27/2010 mopar
      unplug your negative battery cable for awhile...and hook back up...see if it changes anything
    • yboy82
      11/29/2010 yboy82
      Did you already diagnose your vehicle with a scan tool to check if your vehicle has a trouble code?

      You have to diagnose your vehicle first to check for any stored trouble code and to know what the trouble code your ABS light is indicating. And then fix your vehicle before you can reset your ABS light.
  • Richi
    • yboy82
      11/29/2010 yboy82
      Did you already diagnose your vehicle with a scan tool to check if your vehicle has a trouble code?

      You have to diagnose your vehicle first to check for any stored trouble code and to know what the trouble code your ABS light is indicating.
  • Richi
    • yboy82
      11/29/2010 yboy82
      Did you already diagnose your vehicle with a scan tool to check if your vehicle has a trouble code?
    • yboy82
      11/29/2010 yboy82
      You have to diagnose your vehicle first to check for any stored trouble code and to know what is the trouble code your ABS light is indicating.
  • G.Shaw
    G.Shaw - 2004 Dodge Neon - Brakes - 11/28/2010
    Wheel is locked up when i move forward?
    when i move forward my right rear wheel locks up i move backwards and it rolls fine then when i go forward again it rolls a little the locks up.can anybody tell me what the problem could be.?
    • CVO
      11/28/2010 CVO
      Tow to the brake shop. ( brake drums jammed ). Hope this help and be SAFE.
    • mopar
      11/28/2010 mopar
      jack the the back end up check your brake adjustments...if not then it will be a wheel bearing.
  • Austin
    Austin - 1999 Dodge Ram 1500 - Brakes - 11/26/2010
    Why are my gauges gong crazy?
    The wheel barring went out a few moths ago and has been sitting ever since. Now the gauges go up and down rapidly and dings unless the seat belt is pulled out but even then the gauges still go up and down rapidly but when i put the emergency brake it on all the ...
    • mopar
      11/26/2010 mopar
      check in and around your instrument cluster harness and other harnesses....check for rodents...if it sat for awhile...more than likely...they made your dodge a home
  • justin35
  • shockz
    shockz - 1988 Dodge B250 - Brakes - 11/21/2010
    What would keep the front calipers from releasing all the way.
    i just installed new calipers and pads. the calipers don't seem to be releasing completly. after driving about 5 miles the front wheels are hot. one was 186 degrees and the other was 208 degrees.
    • Santos
      11/20/2010 Santos
      You have air in the brake lines, I would bleed the brakes at the calipers.
    • les
      11/20/2010 les
      brake hose can be the problem
    • killakane138
      11/21/2010 killakane138
      ok since you had the brakes apart you did peel back the caliper piston boot to check for rust????? ive changed hundreds of those on gm/ dodge even ford pickups. IF NOT MAKE SURE THE CALIPER CAN SLIDE ON ITS CONTACT POINTS OR SLIDE PINS. IF THE PISTON OR BORE IS RUSTY THEY ARE JUNK. replace calipers and bleed fully. also clean and lubricate all slide pins AND contact surfaces. IF YOU HAD AIR IN THE SYSTEM THE PEDAL WOULD BE LOW.
    • shockz
      11/21/2010 shockz
      when i press the brakes the calipers move freely. when i release the pedel the calipers only release part way. if i open the bleeder it takes the pressure off.

      i think the issue is in the proportioning valve. my feeling is it is not allowing the fluid to return from the calipers. or could it possibly be the master cylender?

      something has blockage that won't allow fluid to return. which could it be? master or proportioning valve???????
    • HouseCallAuto
      11/21/2010 HouseCallAuto
      Try some things first. First verify, don't assume that both wheels are dragging. Your temperatures from side to side are not equal. On the hotter side you could have a brake hose that is collapsed inside and then the hose becomes like a check valve. Pressure goes in and then stays. If you really do have both calipers dragging then you can skip the hose because they both would not fail together (both sides). That brings you back to:

      Verify that the stop lamp switch is not mis-adjusted / bent and holding the brake pedal partially depressed.

      Unbolt the master and place a washer behind the mounting ears to move the master out like a millimeter and maybe ease up the pressure. This is only a diagnostic tool, don't leave it like that. If it seems to resolve it, replace the master.
    • shockz
      11/21/2010 shockz
      i want to thank you all. i have done some more hands on research and found the master cylander was the problem. i pulled it and found it to be full of crap and the pushrod rusted. i have installed a new master, flushed the lines and cleaned the pushrod.

      i want to add that this site is 100% by me. again thank you ALL!!!
  • Trods222
    Trods222 - 1999 Dodge Ram 1500 - Brakes - 11/21/2010
    ABS and brake light on, speedometer not working properly.
    104,000 nothing done yet.
    • Marcus Fenix
      11/16/2010 Marcus Fenix
      For the ABS get it scannec, your ABS will not work in a panic stop. Post the code here.

      Now for the Speedo, chances are your VSS is faulty (and i have a feeling that it may be connected to your VSS) Vehicle Speedd Sensor. its located on the end of your tranny driver side if you are underneath your truck.
    • killakane138
      11/21/2010 killakane138
      AHHH NO your vss is located on the rear axle on top of the diff. its held in with 1 bolt. the sensor its self can be a pain in the a** to get out. Also there know to break when working it out make sure if you do. Is to spend time getting ALL the pieces out. be prepared with pliers and penetrating oil. remove the bolt and try to spin the sensor in its bore then spray with pen. oil. keep working it back and forth then with slight pressure upwards. replace with new MOPAR vss sensor the orielly/ autozone ect. vss sensors are JUNK. MOPAR ONLY.
  • mike
    mike - 2003 Dodge Durango - Brakes - 11/16/2010
    I have a low brake pedal.will not pump up.replaced number of parts
    replaced rotors,pads,master cylinder.lights come on but when start vehical they go off.brakes want to grab.will not pump up.80.000 miles.just bought about 3 months ago.
    • Bobby
      11/16/2010 Bobby
      check the rear wheel cylinders are they seaping fluid? HAve you bleed the brakes all around?
    • Santos
      11/16/2010 Santos
      sounds like air in the line try bleeding all around remember air in a hydraulic line will not allow the pressure to build.
  • Jesscia Bowman
    Jesscia Bowman - 1998 Dodge Ram 1500 - Brakes - 11/16/2010
    I changed the rotar and brakes on the right side and now i have a vibration coming from that side. What could it be?
    I did the hub asembly on the left side and the rotar adn brakes on the right. I checked the bearings on the right side and they are fine!
    • HouseCallAuto
      11/16/2010 HouseCallAuto
      Always remember that any brake rotor has to sit totally flat on the hub or it will have runout like a warped LP record. Your vibration is either a defective rotor (it happens) that is warped or the hub area where it sits did not allow the rotor to sit flush and flat. Often the hub needs detailing to clean it with a wire brush all around the wheel studs and such. Make it look as perfect as you can make it. Check the rotor fit around the center hole also. Sometimes I get a new rotor that fits too snug at the center hole and that does not allow the rotor to sit flush. usually breaking away the rust on the hub all the way down to shiny steel is enough to solve the problem, and other times I have actually had to use a high speed grinder and make the center hole a few thousandths larger.
  • andy b
    andy b - 2005 Dodge Caravan - Brakes - 11/12/2010
    • Fox Hound
      11/8/2010 Fox Hound
      The park brke cables on this vehicle have an automatic self adjuster built into the park brake pedal mechanism. When the foot operated park brake pedal is in its released (upward most) position, a clock spring automatically adjusts the park brake cables. The park brake cables are adjusted (tensioned) just enough to remove all the slack from the cables. The automatic adjuster system will not over adjust the cables causing rear brake drag.

      Due to the automatic adjust feature of the park brake pedal, adjustment of the parking brake cables on these vehicles relies on proper drum brake adjustment.

      When the park brake pedal is applied the self adjuster is by-passed and the pedal operates normally to engage the park brakes.

      When a service procedure needs to be performed on the park brake pedal or the park brake cables, the automatic self adjuster can be manually locked out by the service technician.
    • andy b
      11/12/2010 andy b
  • bigbillion
    bigbillion - 1989 Dodge Dynasty - Brakes - 11/11/2010
    Why after replacing power booster, calipers , master cylinder, and pads does my brake pedal still go to the floor?
    I have bled the master cylinder and the wheel cylinders but the pedal still goes to the floor
    • vince^_^
      11/11/2010 vince^_^
      Did you also check the condition of your proportioning valve and your combination control valve? It is possible that it is faulty due to normal wear. Your proportioning valve is mounted to a bracket attached to your vacuum power booster.
  • Rob
    Rob - 2002 Dodge Durango - Brakes - 11/10/2010
    Is it possable for me to change rear brakes over to disk ?
    • Hot Pursuit
      11/10/2010 Hot Pursuit
      Yes its possible, just did the same thing for my car since it had drums on the rear, a vehicle looks better with all disc brakes. But i had to change my entire trailing arm and suspension for disc brakes.

      I believe it was a lot easier, just getting an entire rear end from a car of the same model but a higher trim.

      But there are other ways of doing it. Here is an idea on how to go about it

      Raise one end of your car with a floor jack so that the tires clear the ground and secure it on jack stands. Remove the wheels with a tire tool.

      Remove the original drum by taping around the rear perimeter of the drum ridge with a hammer. An assistant may prove helpful here have him pull the drum out while you are tapping it loose.

      Disconnect the hydraulic brake line from the brake cylinder and remove the bolts that hold the brake backing plate to the axle or stering knuckle. These bolts may be on the front of the brake face on a solid axle but are usually located behind it. On a steering knuckle, the bolts are almost always on the back.
      Pack the iner wheel bearing with grease and slide it into the back (flat part) of the rotor. Slide the new rotor over the axle studs. Kits with rotors will come correctly drilled for your application, but some junkyard swaps may require an axle replacement as well.

      Pack the outer wheel bearing and slide it over the spindle and into the rotor. Lightly tap it into place with a hammer. Thread the retaining nut over the spindle and torque it to the amount specified for your car. Install the cotter pin retainer, if so equipped, through the hole in the spindle and bend the protruding tips back onto the bolt.

      Install the caliper mounting bracket included with the kit in place of the drum backing plate. Kit brackets are designed as a direct replacement, so it should bolt in place of the backing plate. If you're doing a junkyard swap, then you may need to install a second adapter plate between the axle flange and caliper mounting bracket.

      Coat the caliper bolt threads with the anti-seize compound included in the kit. Install the brake pads into the caliper and slide the caliper over the rotor so its bolt holes line up with the mounting bracket's. Slide the bolts into the holes and tighten to spec.

      Reinstall the brake line, double-check all of your torque specs and bolts then bleed the brake system. To bleed the brakes, have an assistant sit inside the car and quickly pump the brakes three times, holding the brake pedal to the floor on the third time. Unscrew the bleed valve on the caliper to allow air to escape while your assistant continues to hold down the pedal. Close the valve and repeat the pump-hold-bleed procedure until a solid stream of brake fluid comes out when you open the valve.

      Repeat this procedure on every wheel you want to retrofit, bleeding the brakes after each wheel and again when you're done with all of them.

  • kathy
    kathy - 1996 Dodge Dakota - Brakes - 11/10/2010
    Leftbrakeistightin forward only
    it dose when brakes cooldown then gethot while driving put new wheel cylnderson both sides
    • vince^_^
      11/10/2010 vince^_^
      Did you also check the condition of your master brake cylinder? It is possible that the boot or grommet in you master brake cylinder piston is worn/damaged.
      11/10/2010 vince^_^
      Also check the condition of your brake hose behind your front left brake