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Cadillac brakes repair questions and answers

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  • boss#1
    boss#1 - 1999 Cadillac Eldorado - Brakes - 4/15/2012
    Message says: "stability engaged" then the car slows down for no reason. Then message says: "serv stability system".
    Since I don't need the stability system engaged, I need to know how to disengage the stability system. I know the owner's manual says to have the dealer service the vehicle when the "serv stability system" message appears, but I don't need the unit to engage.
    0 answer
  • boss#1
    boss#1 - 1999 Cadillac Eldorado - Brakes - 4/15/2012
    Message says: stabilty engaged. Then later it will say: serv stability system. How can I disengage the sysem?
    The owner's manual says that the car must be serviced at the dealer. Since I don't need to use the stability system, I need to know how to disengage the system, without the dealer's assistance. (While the system is engaged, the car begins to slow down for no reason, ...
    0 answer
  • chawrule
    chawrule - 1993 Cadillac Fleetwood - Brakes - 4/14/2012
    My ABS/TRACTION CONTROL lights come on intermittently.
    I had a computer hooked up to it and had a road test done to find the problem. It said that my right rear ABS sensor was bad. I replaced it but now the light comes on after driving a few feet out of my driveway, or a mile down the road...or five ...
    • EG9 K20A3
      4/9/2012 EG9 K20A3
      Well your codes have to do with the left front wheel speed sensor, plus you're seeing the intermittent reading on the OBD. I think that I can conclusively say that you have a bad wheel speed sensor. So the only thing that needs to be replaced is that wheel hub assembly (the speed sensor is integrated into it). Your EBTCM (Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module) seems to be doing it's job nicely. It just needs that sensor working in order for it to not engage the ABS or TCS randomly and put you in a dangerous situation, so it shut off those systems as a saftey mechanism. Once you change that sensor/hub assembly, you'll be good to go.
      EG9 K20A3
      4/12/2012 chawrule
      I'll have it re-scanned. Thanks for your input.
    • EG9 K20A3
      4/14/2012 EG9 K20A3
      Get back to me for updates :) Good luck
  • don
    don - 1988 Cadillac Seville - Brakes - 4/11/2012
    Sudden hard brake pedal
    Mechanic says an ABS component has "burned out". STS model has no booster so it isn't that. Where can I find this part. He says they used to be rebuilt but since the car is older no one is rebuilding them anymore. Any help in locating a used part would be nice.
  • Robert
    Robert - 2002 Cadillac Escalade - Brakes - 4/11/2012
    Are the rear brakes 1or 2 caliber piston
    • EG9 K20A3
      4/11/2012 EG9 K20A3
      I believe you have 2, to make sure look the calipers. On the outside, you'll see a 'U' shaped 'notch'. One notch/cutout means one caliper, and two means two.

  • Dr. Kim
    Dr. Kim - 2007 Cadillac DTS - Brakes - 4/6/2012
    How to repair the third brake light?
    I will buy the parts mentioned above and repair it by myself.
    0 answer
  • Tyler Durden
    Tyler Durden - 1999 Cadillac Seville - Brakes - 4/6/2012
    How hard is it to change brake pads? and how much?
    i need brake pads
    • Aaron the Fabricator
      A proper brake includes o.e. replacement pads and a machining of the surface of the rotors. as far as price it is dependent on the shops hourly rate and markup. Quality pads suitable for a Cadillac should be no more than 100$ and the varying cost is the hourly labor rate.
  • Colin's Escalade
    Colin's Escalade - 2000 Cadillac Escalade - Brakes - 4/6/2012
    What are benefits of getting ceramic brake pads compared to semi-metal pads?
    Is there a real difference in performance? I know that ceramic pads keeps the wheels cleaner. Please advise.
    • Aaron the Fabricator
      If I remember correctly the newer GM vehicles use a ceramic pad. I would recommend a Wagner O.E. replacement pad and as for the rotors I recommend a black label rotor for that vehicle. Don't buy China rotors they are cheaper but most of the time they come warped from the factory and will require machining prior to installation which defeats the purpose of new rotors. I hope this was insightful.
      Aaron the Fabricator
      4/6/2012 Colin's Escalade
      Thanks again Aaron, What i was gonna get was the Akebono Ultra Premium Ceramic Disc Brake Pad Kit, and the Wagner Brake Rotor. Does black lable rate better then Wagner Rotors then?
      Aaron the Fabricator
      Both will be suitable I just know from experience the black label rotors are premium and specifically state "Do not machine before installing".
      Aaron the Fabricator
      4/6/2012 Colin's Escalade
      Ok great. am reading the specs and they say that Wagner will be an exact replacement fit for my escalade. So i will take my chance with that as i will be doing the job myself. And the Akebono ceramic is a good fit also.
      Aaron the Fabricator
      Good choice! Wagner is great as well. Made in U.S.A.!!!
    • Aaron the Fabricator
      There are no benefits so to speak. Vehicles are equipped from the factory with a specific type of brake pad lining exclusive to that exact car's design the lining type should only be this type. If you use a different than intended type of lining the outcome will not be desirable. For instance if it calls for ceramic and use use semi metallic excess brake dust, premature rotor wear, overheating , and warpage all could result. The reasoning behind this is that the ceramic pads have a different operating temperature range and the semi's do as well. The density and type of metal the rotor is made of will be a factor since essentially it is metal rubbing metal to stop the car where if the metals aren't a match the outcome is overheating and will result in brake fade. So for short... don't do it!
      Aaron the Fabricator
      4/5/2012 Colin's Escalade
      Thanks for the detailed response Aaron. So basically i should purchase pads that match the rotors then correct?

      My car is 12 years old, and the rotors have never been changed. They need to be changed now as they are warped as i notice the wobbling effect whenever i apply the brakes when driving. My pads which i replaced myself about 3 years ago are ceramic. So i assume i need to changed them both now correct?
  • mattycaddy613
    mattycaddy613 - 2004 Cadillac CTS - Brakes - 4/4/2012
    I got my front rotors and pads changed and I hear squeaking when I brake
    I bring it back to the mechanic and he said it was the vacuum hose scraping against rotors. I thought the squeaking was only coming from the right passenger side. But now after they said they fixed the problem I'm still hearing the irritAting squeaking now from ...
    • Ray
      4/4/2012 Ray
      Take it back. You should not be hearing these sounds.
      4/4/2012 mattycaddy613
      Do you kno the reason so I can tell them I kno what they did or whatever?
      4/4/2012 ARMY OF 4 TIRES
      I'd take it somewhere else If they couldn't fix it or give a reasonable explanation
      4/4/2012 mattycaddy613
      I just been going to Mavis discount tire for years never had a problem ever. They even take care of all my family cars They hook me up you know what I mean
    • Ray
      4/4/2012 Ray
      Brake squeaking sounds are caused by vibrations. If the shop acknowledges the sound, they should fix it. The brake pads themselves or their installation process is causing the sound. A good shop will fix the problem.
      4/4/2012 Ray
      Sounds like they will fix the problem if you have been going to them for years. Most shops want a good customer relationship.
  • yankees
    yankees - 2004 Cadillac CTS - Brakes - 4/3/2012
    Rumbling when i accelerate from the rear is that my bearings
    Rumbling when i accelerate from the rear is that my bearings
    • EG9 K20A3
      4/3/2012 EG9 K20A3
      Could be 2 things either a bearing or your tires. Check the wear on your tires. Run your hand on the tread and see if the tire feels choppy. As for a bearing noise does it change when you go around right or left corners?
  • Baby Blue
    Baby Blue - 1995 Cadillac Seville - Brakes - 3/30/2012
    Where is the brake proportion valve located
    • EG9 K20A3
      3/30/2012 EG9 K20A3
      If its not here

      Its probably underneath your car in the middle near the rear, anyway, its just a matter of tracing the lines from the master cylinder backwards.
  • sergio
    sergio - 2002 Cadillac Escalade - Brakes - 3/21/2012
    Stability ride control warning light is on giving me code c0286
    • EG9 K20A3
      3/21/2012 EG9 K20A3
      Actually the code is mpa switch remains open or closed , the ebcm (electronic brake control module) may have to be replaced as it is internal and the price is in the right range, others had a steering wheel sensor problem. The most common thing that takes care of this code is what's called the BPMV (Brake Pressure Modulator Valve).

      There is a TSB from GM that states to change the MPA switch. In my experience, this has limited success. I usually end up having to replace the entire BPMV. This is Hydraulic unit that is located under the driver seat area on the frame rail. The ABS control module is attached to it. You can get the BPMV separately from the control module. For reference, the MPA switch is installed in the BPMV.
  • Auric
    Auric - 2005 Cadillac DeVille - Brakes - 3/19/2012
    Rear brakes repair pads
    How do I change rear brake pads on this car?
    • Spoon Sports
      3/19/2012 Spoon Sports
      SOrry no pics so even if it says "see pic" you wont see it, have this written

      Before starting the procedure it is sometimes necessary to remove the cap from the brake fluid resevoir and remove some of the fluid so it does not over flow when turning the caliper piston. I have never had this happen before, but if you are uncertain you should check with a professional. Some also bleed the brake lines, but I have never done this for just changing rotors and pads, and I have not had any issues in not doing so. If you DO have problems braking, such as petal going all the way to the floor, you may need to bleed your lines to remove air. This document should be used as a reference and not as law. I am not a certified mechanic, GM has no affiliation with me, nor does any repair manual. With that being said...

      1. Loosen all the lugs on the wheels.

      2. Raise the vehicle properly and secure with jack stands.

      3. Remove the wheels.

      4. when you remove the wheels you will see the following:

      5. Remove the Brake Pad Wear Sensor by removing the silver clip seen in the picture below. It has the black wire going into the back side of the silver clip. The sensor is set in an intent in the brake pad. Remove/Unplug any other sensors you feel might get in the way of the repair and keep them out of the way.

      6. Remove the lower caliper bolt by using a 12mm socket. Be careful not to strip the head if it is frozen on place. image below:

      7: Lift the caliper from the bottom and support it/hang it with a wire coat hanger. If your caliper wont budge like mine wouldn't I used a pry bar, VERY CAREFULLY on the bottom edge of the caliper for some extra leverage. You don't want to damage the brake fluid line going into the caliper. At this point you are supposed to remove the parking brake cable but for the life of me, I have never been able to get it off, so I leave it as is. Once the caliper is lifted you can pull off the inner and outer brake pads.

      8. Using the caliper piston tool you already picked up from the auto parts store you will need to twist the caliper piston back into the caliper as far as it will go in preparation for the new brake pads. Do it slowly, it's a bit time consuming anyway. If you don't need to replace your rotors skip to step 12.

      9. Now that you have supported the caliper and removed the old brake pads, it is time to remove the large metal 'guard' the the caliper is attached to in order to remove the old rotor. This requires a 15mm socket, and probably a VERY long handled wratchet. i had to use my 24" torque ratchet. There are two bolts, one on top, one on bottom. You can see my socket on the lower one in this picture:

      10. Now that you have removed the two bolts support the caliper and guard somehow, so they are not dangling. this will prevent damage to the brake line and parking brake cable. You will now have a naked wheel hub:

      11. Put on your new rotors and put the two 15mm bolts back in place and tighten them. I didn't have my FSM handy but I torqued them down to 50lbs, official torque is 94lbs.

      12. I don't know if this is necessary anymore, but i apply a bit of anti-squeel compound to the backs of the brake pads. let it dry for about 5 minutes then reinstall the brake pads, while holding the caliper (it should still be hanging by the coat hanger, anyway) in the UP position. Sorry no picture if JUST the pads on with out the caliper in the installed position.

      13. Put the caliper back into position and reinstall the lower caliper bolt and torque it down with 20lbs. "Plug" the Brake Pad Wear Sensor back into the indent on the brake pad.

      14. Double check that any sensors that were unplugged are attached again, and make sure all your bolts are properly torqued back in.

      15. Install your wheel, hand tighten lugs, lower vehicle, torque lug nuts to 100lbs.

      16. Start the car and pump the brake petal until it is firm again.

      17. Take car for test drive.

      18. Give yourself a pat on the back.

      **disclaimer: i am not responsible for any unfortunate turn of events due to user error in this procedure. if you don't feel comfortable doing this, have a professional do it for you.
  • Marc
    • Mike
      3/7/2012 Mike
      I think the loaded caliper has the brake pads already installed, and for semi they included but not installed...