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Rich

Rich 7/9/2019

2007 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 HD Classic LT 8 Cyl 6.00L

Engine

No power, won't stay on engine dies

I use a jump starter to start truck but today after truck started I removed jumper. And truck engine died instrument panel not working

3 Answers


Jimm

Jimm 9/20/2019

Several possibilities; worn/loose drive belt, worn belt tensioner, worn idler pulley, corroded / loose battery terminals, worn battery - to list only a few.
Best to have the battery and charging system, including the alternator tested for free, at any local auto parts store.
First step - have the battery and charging system tested; including the alternator - for free - at any local auto parts stores in your area. Next, raise the hood and make sure the battery connections / cables and terminals are OK - clean and tight; with no corrosion build-up - at both ends of each of the positive and negative (ground) cables to and from the battery.

When the battery and charging system - along with the alternator is tested - be sure to obtain a written, detailed test report; containing the voltage, amperage and test conditions, plus the test results.
With the car off, all lights off hook the meter probes one to the + terminal of the battery and one to the + wire/cable that you removed.

You must start with a known full charge battery tested after a full charge with a battery hydrometer to test the electrolyte in each cell at 1.25 or higher S.G. (specific gravity). If battery is maintenance-free cut off the 3 cell cover and inspect the electrolyte charge and level.

With the battery test and known good, hook up in the car with clean terminals, no grease. A helper may be needed.

With a cold engine, and with a voltmeter at 20 VDC, read the meter as the motor is started. Read the meter as the motor fast idles, read the meter as the idle comes down to normal and finally read the meter as the RPM is upped to 2500.

Expected readings:
After recharging the battery and testing with an hydrometer must have 12.7 V
No hydrometer get one, battery terminal voltage at least 12.7 VDC
While starting cold motor and battery hooked up, during starting or cranking no less than 10 VDC.
At cold higher idle at least 13V to 13.5V
At warm engine 750 idle at around 13.25
At 2500 RPM at full voltage of 15 VDC

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0
Jimm

Jimm 9/20/2019

Several possibilities; worn/loose drive belt, worn belt tensioner, worn idler pulley, corroded / loose battery terminals, worn battery - to list only a few.
Best to have the battery and charging system, including the alternator tested for free, at any local auto parts store.
First step - have the battery and charging system tested; including the alternator - for free - at any local auto parts stores in your area. Next, raise the hood and make sure the battery connections / cables and terminals are OK - clean and tight; with no corrosion build-up - at both ends of each of the positive and negative (ground) cables to and from the battery.

When the battery and charging system - along with the alternator is tested - be sure to obtain a written, detailed test report; containing the voltage, amperage and test conditions, plus the test results.
With the car off, all lights off hook the meter probes one to the + terminal of the battery and one to the + wire/cable that you removed.

You must start with a known full charge battery tested after a full charge with a battery hydrometer to test the electrolyte in each cell at 1.25 or higher S.G. (specific gravity). If battery is maintenance-free cut off the 3 cell cover and inspect the electrolyte charge and level.

With the battery test and known good, hook up in the car with clean terminals, no grease. A helper may be needed.

With a cold engine, and with a voltmeter at 20 VDC, read the meter as the motor is started. Read the meter as the motor fast idles, read the meter as the idle comes down to normal and finally read the meter as the RPM is upped to 2500.

Expected readings:
After recharging the battery and testing with an hydrometer must have 12.7 V
No hydrometer get one, battery terminal voltage at least 12.7 VDC
While starting cold motor and battery hooked up, during starting or cranking no less than 10 VDC.
At cold higher idle at least 13V to 13.5V
At warm engine 750 idle at around 13.25
At 2500 RPM at full voltage of 15 VDC

Reply
0
Jimm

Jimm 9/20/2019

Several possibilities; worn/loose drive belt, worn belt tensioner, worn idler pulley, corroded / loose battery terminals, worn battery - to list only a few.
Best to have the battery and charging system, including the alternator tested for free, at any local auto parts store.
First step - have the battery and charging system tested; including the alternator - for free - at any local auto parts stores in your area. Next, raise the hood and make sure the battery connections / cables and terminals are OK - clean and tight; with no corrosion build-up - at both ends of each of the positive and negative (ground) cables to and from the battery.

When the battery and charging system - along with the alternator is tested - be sure to obtain a written, detailed test report; containing the voltage, amperage and test conditions, plus the test results.
With the car off, all lights off hook the meter probes one to the + terminal of the battery and one to the + wire/cable that you removed.

You must start with a known full charge battery tested after a full charge with a battery hydrometer to test the electrolyte in each cell at 1.25 or higher S.G. (specific gravity). If battery is maintenance-free cut off the 3 cell cover and inspect the electrolyte charge and level.

With the battery test and known good, hook up in the car with clean terminals, no grease. A helper may be needed.

With a cold engine, and with a voltmeter at 20 VDC, read the meter as the motor is started. Read the meter as the motor fast idles, read the meter as the idle comes down to normal and finally read the meter as the RPM is upped to 2500.

Expected readings:
After recharging the battery and testing with an hydrometer must have 12.7 V
No hydrometer get one, battery terminal voltage at least 12.7 VDC
While starting cold motor and battery hooked up, during starting or cranking no less than 10 VDC.
At cold higher idle at least 13V to 13.5V
At warm engine 750 idle at around 13.25
At 2500 RPM at full voltage of 15 VDC

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