Covina, CA 91723 (1647)
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|Top AutoMD Negotiator Repairs||Quote Ranges||# of Quotes|
|Engine Mount Replacement||$85 - $85||1|
|Engine Performance Diagnosis||$85 - $85||1|
2 Reviews for Hendrickson Automotive
Repair/Service: Toyota Repair
Hourly Rate: $80.
Total Cost: $80.
My late model Toyota had trouble starting when driving around stopping and starting during the day. If I waited long enough and it was a cold start it started OK. My regular Toyota Repair mechanic didn’t know what the problem was and said that he needed the car all day to do a full troubleshooting diagnostic. I called a couple of other auto repair shops and they didn’t know what the problem was either. Finally, on a Saturday, I called Rick at Hendrickson Automotive, who actually explained to me what he thought the problem was and I brought it in to their shop. Rick fixed the car in a couple of hours at a minimal cost and did a great job explaining to me what the problem was. I highly recommend Hendrickson Automotive for their honest knowledgeable repair work and reasonable prices. By Mike Brock
by Happy Client on October 14, 2011
Repair/Service: Total rip-off, by incompetent mechanics
Hourly Rate: $80
Total Cost: $80
I went there a couple of months ago for a simple tune up, and they completely messed up almost everything. I am typing this review now because I just today found something else that they messed up on, but I'll get to that in a minute. First thing that they did was just kind of annoying, and that was that they did a little 20 or so point safety inspection. On it were several things like, windshield washer fluid level, that my car does not have, and rather than write N/A on the accessories like washer fluid that weren't on my car, they counted it a safety fail.
Now to the parts that they actually messed up. First off, they said that something on the stove assembly on my carb (Edelbrock 600 cfm electric choke) was installed backwards so they reversed it. I never took it off, and I don't think that Edelbrock would install something like that backwards. But anyway, since they did that, the assembly will not tighten, even though all the retaining screws are set all the way. The only things on it that I can find that can even be installed backwards are a little retaining ring and gasket, neither of which make a difference what direction they are facing.
Second, was the kick down rod. According to their mechanic the kick down rod was not installed properly and was preventing the throttle for opening passed half way. So instead of fixing it or leaving it alone (since that was really the only problem with it) and just telling me about it, they take it out, throw in the back seat and say, "You really need it anyway, just shift it manually." They said that now the throttle will open all the way. Which it didn't because my new linkage opens it farther.
Now the really stupid thing that they did, was the mechanic took my out to a little back road behind the shop to show me how much faster it goes, since they removed the kick down. This is stupid because when we got back and I talked to the owner about how much this 'tune up' was going to cost, he told me that the brakes were so critically low on fluid and the front wheel alignment was so bad that it was unsafe to drive and, "I would not let my kids near the thing." Then charged me $80 and handed me the keys.
Now they did run a vacuum and a compression test on it and found that some cylinders had too high compression and some had too low, and told me that I should get a hold of the guy who built the engine and have him fix it. When I did he said that it may have been a simple valve adjustment and why didn't they try to fix it? So I, unfortunately paid the $80 and left. I didn't stat noticing all the things that they, 'fixed' until a couple of days later when I was doing some work on it. I also found out, that they did the tune up. Which was what I went the for in the first place!
Now what finally got me to write this is what I found out today. While there they had told me that my rear axle was leaking. I looked when I got it home and couldn't find any leaks so I left it alone. Recently my U-Joints went out, so I pulled out the drive shaft to replace them. I found what they thought was the leaking axle, and it was actually a U-Joint. The grease seals on the rear joint were gone and it was flinging grease all over the place.
I can see how they may have thought it was the rear axle, but if they had looked for more than half a second to see a little more than, 'there's grease under the car near the axle, it must be leaking', they would have seen that it was not coming from the axle at all. There is no grease, or fluid, or anything on the axle housing at all, and if it was leaking from the axle yolk, the grease would be on the back of it, not the front. It doesn't take a forensic scientist to figure this stuff out. I've been driving around for months with a failing U-Joint because these people were too lazy to look properly.
by autoworker on June 5, 2012