Several possibilities; rear brakes overheating - due to ; faulty / siezed brake caliper, contaminated brake fluid, stuck / siezed parking brake or parking brake cable. Check these items as first steps - try the 'How-To-Guides' feature on the AutoMD website for the specific steps to check the rear brakes.

A. The check engine light doesn't have to be ON to store a fault code.

Check the vehicle for fault codes to see if there are any sensors were involved to the malfunction of the engine.

1.Local auto parts stores such as Autozone ( not in California) or Advance Auto parts will scan and retrieve any diagnostic trouble codes ( dtc ) stored in the powertrain control module for free of charge..

2. Amazon.com has the code reader for less than $25.00 dollars + shipping.

3.Re-post the dtc's in here " answer question " for further assistance.

Note: we need the dtc's to identify the sensor, there are a dozen different sensors to operate the car.

Visit this site and see all the different sensors.

http://www.freeautomechanic.com/car-engine-sensors.html

Navigate to this site and see the code reader
http://www.amazon.com/.../ref=sr_1_1

B. Check the engine motor mounts for their tightness to the chassis.

To check your automatic transmission fluid, follow these steps:

Pull out the dipstick.

With the gearshift in Neutral or Park and the parking brake on, let your engine run. Be sure the engine is warm when you pull out the dipstick. (Don’t turn off the engine.)

Check the fluid.

Dip the tip of your index finger into the fluid on the dipstick and rub the fluid between your finger and the tip of your thumb. The transmission fluid on the dipstick should be pinkish and almost clear. If it looks or smells burnt or has particles in it, have a mechanic drain and change the fluid.

Wipe the dipstick with a clean, lint-free rag; then reinsert it and pull it out again.

If the transmission fluid is clear but doesn’t reach the “Full” line on the dipstick, use a funnel to pour just enough transmission fluid down the dipstick tube to reach the line. Don’t overfill!

There are several types of transmission fluid. Each is made for a specific type of automatic transmission. Newer transmissions from the major automakers require different fluid than older ones. Because so many different kinds of transmissions are around these days, check your owner’s manual or dealership to find out which type of fluid your vehicle requires.

A faulty transmission and one that’s just low on fluid share many of the same symptoms! If your vehicle hesitates when your automatic transmission shifts gears, check the transmission fluid level before you let any mechanic start talking about servicing or adjusting your transmission or selling you a new one. Obviously, adding transmission fluid is a lot cheaper than replacing the whole transmission system!

Worn brake pads can cause a scraping sound. Can you tell where on the vehicle the noise is coming from? Is your vehicle still under warranty?

I agree with Jason, the rear brake pads have audible wear sensors that typically make the most noise when backing up when the pads are worn down.

The lights staying on is to let you know there is a malfunction in that particular system. You will need to have it scanned for DTC's (diagnostic trouble codes) and the result of that will tell you what repair needs to be made. Most auto part stores will scan your vehicle for free.

Types Of Toyota GL

Take it back to the shop. How do you know the wrong oil was put in? Shimmying sounds like a tire problem - not a differential problem...

Hello
I would first have to ask you if your clutch had an engagement issue before it was replaced. I believe your clutch system uses a hydraulically controlled system and if so there is not much adjustment ,if any at all. It sounds to me there may be air in the hydraulic system causing these symptoms. It is hard to say not seeing the car. Hope this helps.
Joe Boulay
Automotive Technician & Author of the book “If That Car Could Talk”
joe@joeboulay.com
http://joeboulay.com/

Different clutch brands will vary in geometry as far as pedal travel to clutch movement. Remember, your old clutch was worn and you were used to it that way. You *might* not be able to claim something is wrong with this clutch at all. Furthermore, this clutch has no adjustment as it has a self-positioning hydraulic slave cylinder that moves out the same amount each time the pedal is stepped on. In my opinion, I cannot make a determination of this being OK or not unless I got in the car and felt it for myself. I would know right away if this was a problem or not, can't say it any differently than that. If there is problem (i am not saying there is) then the only solution would be to replace the clutch again with maybe genuine Toyota parts which of course would cost twice the parts cost you had. I am assuming that the mechanic did not buy genuine Toyota parts (nothing says you have to buy genuine Toyota parts) but that an aftermarket brand like LUK or Valeo ws used. Most shops use those brands and others.

Yes, could be this, I have heard of this happening on Toyota trucks. Remove the entire rear driveshaft assembly from tranny to rear and have it looked at by driveshaft shop and at the very least have the ujoints replaced and shaft balanced.