Yes, not so much because of the new tires - but because of the tie rod replacement. Any repair that replaces front end steering or suspension components - it's recommended to have the wheel alignment performed.

Yes, not so much because of the new tires - but because of the tie rod replacement. Any repair that replaces front end steering or suspension components - it's recommended to have the wheel alignment performed.

See these links.

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/

http://www.autoanything.com/

http://www.jcwhitney.com/

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/home.oap

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php

http://www.car-part.com/dealersaz.shtml

http://www.partsgeek.com/

Check the many on-line auto parts sources, such as; www.autopartswarehouse, www.rockauto.com, or www.toyotapartssource.com for the replacement parts. For example, they (Toyota Parts Source) list the 'adjust bar' (bracket) for the drive belt tensioner from around $10.57 for your vehicle.

Oxygen (A/F) sensor - bank 2 sensor 1. Replacing the sensor is the usual fix. If may need both sensors if they are the same age...

After cat and get a OEM direct wire harness connect for ease of instalation for the DIY at http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/

Spark knock (detonation) is an erratic form of combustion that occurs when multiple flame fronts occur simultaneously inside a combustion chamber. Detonation occurs because fuel is subjected to either too much pressure, too much heat or both. It usually happens during acceleration when the engine is heavily loaded and cylinder pressures are at their peak.

Instead of a single flame front growing outward smoothly like an expanding balloon from the point of ignition, multiple flame fronts are generated spontaneously throughout the combustion chamber as the fuel automatically ignites from heat and pressure. The multiple flame fronts collide, creating shock waves that produce a sharp metallic pinging or knocking noise.

Mild detonation can occur in almost any engine and will not cause damage. Prolonged heavy detonation can crack pistons and rings, blow out head gaskets, damage spark plugs and valves, and flatten rod bearings.

Any of the following can cause detonation:

Too Much Compression:
An accumulation of carbon deposits in the combustion chambers, on piston tops and valves can increase compression to the point where it exceeds fuel octane rating. If a top cleaner fuel additive fails to remove deposits, a new alternative is to blast the deposits loose by blowing crushed walnut shells through the spark plug hole. Otherwise, the head will have to be removed so the deposits can be scraped off.

Overadvanced Ignition Timing:
Too much spark advance causes cylinder pressure to rise too rapidly. If resetting the timing to stock specifications does not help, retarding timing a couple of degrees may be necessary to eliminate knock.

Engine Overheating:
A hot engine is more likely to suffer spark knock than one which runs at normal temperature. Overheating can be caused by low coolant, a defective fan clutch, too hot a thermostat, a bad water pump, etc. A buildup of lime and rust deposits in the head and block can also reduce heat transfer

Overheated Air:
The thermostatically controlled air cleaner provides the carburetor with hot air to aid fuel vaporization during engine warm-up. If the air control door sticks shut so that the carburetor continues to receive heated air after the engine is warm, detonation may occur, especially during hot weather. Check the operation of the air flow control door in the air cleaner to see that it opens as the engine warms up. No movement may mean a loose vacuum hose or a defective vacuum motor or thermostat.

Lean Fuel Mixture:
Rich fuel mixtures resist detonation while lean ones do not. Air leaks in vacuum lines, intake manifold gaskets, carburetor gaskets or fuel injection intake plumbing downstream of the throttle can all admit extra air into the engine and lean out the fuel mixture. Lean mixtures can also be caused by dirty fuel injectors, carburetor jets clogged with fuel deposits or dirt, a restricted fuel filter, or a weak fuel pump.

The air/fuel ratio can also be affected by changes in altitude. A carburetor calibrated for high altitude driving will run too lean if driven at a lower elevation. Altitude changes are generally compensated for on computer cars by the barometric pressure sensor.

A lean fuel condition can be diagnosed by watching for lean misfire on an ignition scope, or by using a four-gas infrared analyzer and watching exhaust oxygen levels. A reading over about 3% to 4% oxygen would indicate a lean fuel condition.

Spark Plug Too Hot:
The wrong heat range plug can cause detonation as well as pre-ignition. Copper core plugs are less likely to cause detonation than standard spark plugs.

Loss of Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR):
EGR keeps combustion temperatures down, reducing the tendency to detonate. If the EGR valve is inoperative or someone has disconnected or plugged its vacuum hose, higher combustion temperatures can cause pinging.

Low Octane Fuel:
Burning cheap gas may be one way to save pennies, but switching to a higher grade of fuel may be necessary to eliminate a persistent knock problem.

Defective Knock Sensor:
The knock sensor responds to frequency vibrations produced by detonation (typically 6 - 8 kHz), and signals the computer to momentarily retard ignition timing until detonation stops. A knock sensor can usually be tested by rapping a wrench on the manifold near the sensor (never hit the sensor itself). If there is no timing retard, the sensor may be defective.

There are four (4) oxygen sensors on the V6; two on each side (bank) of the exhaust on the left and right sides of the engine. The O2 sensors are located on the upstream and downstream side (position) of the catalytic converter for each of the two exhaust pipes just next to the exhaust manifolds.
Therefore, bank 1 would refer to the driver side and sensor 1 would refer to the upstream O2 sensor.

bank 1 is the bank that includes cylinder number one. on your Sienna, cylinder #1 is located at the rear of the engine compartment. As for the sensor 1 - that means the sensor located before the inlet of the first (closest) catalytic converter. Sensor 2 would be located after the catalytic converter. On your Sienna there are 4 O2 sensors although the two front ones are referred to as air-fuel ratio sensors of which there is one threaded into the top of each exhaust manifold (that would account for Bank 1 sensor 1 and Bank 2 sensor 1)

Good afternoon,
Your vehicle is equipped with four sensors. The two upstream sensors are Air Fuel Ratio Sensors and the two downstream sensors are the switching type. Sensor location Identification is done for your transversely mounted engine in this way.

There are two sensors mounted upstream and downstream of the catalytic converter on the front of the engine (near the radiator). These would be identified as sensor B1S1 (upstream) and sensor B1S2 (downstream)

There are two sensors mounted upstream and downstream of the catalytic converter on the rear of the engine (near the firewall) These would be identified as sensor B2S1 (upstream) and sensor B2S2 (downstream)
There are several sensor choices for your vehicle depending on the model and whether it is Front Wheel Drive or ALL Wheel Drive. If you can supply with your vehicles model and whether it is FWD or AWD we can give you the correct sensor numbers for your vehicle.

If you have any further questions or concerns please contact us and we will be happy to help.

Walker Pro (www.walkerproducts.com)

the odometer is part of the speedometer and if the speedo works but odometer don't, replace the speedometer.

Is there ignition spark?

The most likely cause is a bad ignition coil, this is not a sure thing but the odds are high. If the coil does not solve it then there may be a bad igniter. As far as there being oil on the plugs, the tube seals are leaking oil but that is not your cause of no start.

Rub a candle along inside of belts

Replace the following components; serpentine drive belt, idler pulley, and the drive belt tensioner (if equipped). There may also be a belt misalignment condition to cause the noise - as a first step - check the belt straightness along one edge of the belt. If adjustment is needed (in or out) then move the power steering pulley in or out accordingly - using a pulley puller or press tool - available from any local auto parts store.
For the replacement parts, try the many on-line parts sources, such as; www.autopartswarehouse.com or www.rockauto.com - to list only two. For example, they (RockAuto) list the power steering belt from around $1.10, the serpentine drive belt from around $2.50, and the idler pulley from around $13.50 - for your vehicle.
The use of candle wax or belt dressing is only temporary and will not address the real problem of a worn or stretched drive belt.

Dup........................

See this site for the post.

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index