Check the many on-line parts sources;such as www.RockAuto.com, www.autopartswarehouse.com, www.autopartsfair.com, or www.jcwhitney.com - for the replacement parts.
The speedometer cable is easily replaced on the Tacoma.

you have to check the wire bundle that controls your speedometer and odometer, these will cause the speedometer not working.

If you want to get into this yourself, plug in a code reader and see what fault code or codes are stored nd then post them here when you update the post. That is the first step. I would not draw any conclusions ahead of time without a code check.

There are plenty of energy-robbing devices on your car that are supposed to go to sleep when it's parked, and sometimes, not all of them go to sleep. Here's how to give them a tranquilizer.

http://www.popularmechanics.com/.../...ar-battery-drains

VSV is a vacuum switching valve and their code is P0441. Check the wiring harness and the connector for any physical damaged.

Now if it has a P0401 .That code means that OBD detected an insufficient amount of EGR.
The DPFE (differential pressure feedback EGR) sensor is faulty and needs to be replaced There is a blockage in the EGR (tube), most likely carbon buildup The EGR valve is faulty The EGR valve may not be opening due to a lack of vaccuum

Apply vacuum to the EGR valve at idle to see if the engine will stall. It SHOULD stall out if activated at idle. if little or no change, your cause here is clogged EGR passages in the throttle body and / or intake manifold. If it does stall like it should or at least barely idle at all, then your cause is a bad EGR temperature sensor or a bad EGR Back Pressure Transducer.

P0401 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected, for this you will what caused this code. Good luck!
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careucar will do its best to help you!

Seems that you are describing a bad front wheel bearing that started out as a loud hum noise and as it got worse the bearing started to "knock" with each revolution of the tire. The brakes would be ruled out right after removing the front tires and looking visually at the rotor and pad condition.

I have no way of knowing whether you are burning the oil or if you have an external oil leak or both. There are no other choices. leaking or burning.

Go to http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/ and you can talk by text to a parts professional.

•Locate the hood release lever located inside the door on the bottom of the dash on the drivers side and release the hood by pulling on the latch.
•Open hood and locate engine air filter assembly located towards rear of engine compartment on drivers side.
•Locate plastic encased wire harness and release from the clip on the filter assembly, this will allow the filter cover to move more freely.
•Locate and release two clip locks located on either side of the filter assembly.
•Remove filter assembly my pulling rear (side towards firewall of the car) up first and disengaging from the two tabs on the front of the assembly. Note, assembly lid will not come completely away from the filter compartment, it must be held up to facilitate removing the filter.
•Holding filter lid up remove the filter, note that the filter has one square corner.
•Replace with new filter to ensure proper seating place square corner appropriately
•Replace lid by engaging hinge in tabs in front of box.
•Ensuring proper seating of lid replace clip locks.
•Replace wire harness in retainer
•Feel around lid to ensure proper seating, this concludes air filter replacement.

Low quality brand coils or oil contamination because of leaking spark plug tube seals is the likely choices.