There is no one particular brand; but recommend to stick with the brand names; Raybestos, Wagner, Beck-Arnley, Bendix - to list just a few.
Check with the many on-line auto parts sources, such as; www.autopartswarehouse.com or www.rockauto.com. They (RockAuto) list heavy-duty brake rotors from around $29.00 each (front rotors) from Raybestos - for your vehicle.

Raybestos

It could be just some brake dust .First buy two or three cans of brake cleaner ,Place the car on jack-stands and spray each caliper rotor set.Also,if the calipers are the floating type put some high melting point grease on the sliding areas.Another thing I do is: If the brake pads are still good sand the pad area to get rid of the glaze,or replace them if you prefer.

You can clean them with brake cleaner, resurface them, or just install the pads.

If the rotors are within the thickness specification, you may be able to just rough the surfaces (both inboard and outboard) of the rotor using some mild grit sandpaper and a swirl action by hand - to break the glaze and allow the new pads to 'seat' or 'bed' to the rotors.
This initial roughing of the rotor friction surfaces also serves to minimize brake noises and squeal - be sure to apply the brake pad anti-squeal gel to the back of the new pads where they contact the piston.

did you check to see if any recalls because this will be my second time changing something that deals with my breaks and i have a toyota yaris ... i thought i was because i drive 100 per day....

It's difficult to say for sure : It could be the brake pads .I would jack the front put it safely on jack stands remove the wheels and do an inspection.Get some brake cleaner spray and spray the brake calipers while turning the hub by hand .Check the thickness of the brake-pads while you're at it and if they are getting very close to the metal ,replace them .I can't think of anythig else that could be causing a noise in the wheel.If cleaning them don't stop the noise then investigate again.

Phone/Fax


Phone:
800-331-4331Fax:
310-468-7814
M-F 5:00 am - 6:00 pm PT
Sat 7:00 am - 4:00 pm PT

See this site http://www.toyota.com/support/contact.html

www.autoMD.com is a public domain.

A scan tool is needed to read the code. Once you have code, you'll have a general idea where a fault has occurred. It can be as simple as a bad wheel speed sensor.

WHERE CAN YOU GET THE TOOL TO FIND THE CODE?

Several possibilities; faulty / sticking brake light switch, faulty brake light relay, fault in the wiring common to both rear brake lights.
Here are several possible on-line auto parts sources; www.autopartswarehouse.com, www.1aauto.com, www.rockauto.com. For example, they (RockAuto) list the brake light switch (under the brake pedal arm), from around $6.70 for your vehicle.

Several possibilities; faulty / loose brake caliper, faulty / worn / damaged wheel or hub bearing. As a first step - raise and support the front end of the vehicle (use jack stands for support) and remove the front wheels. Inspect for the brake condition and for any excess looseness at the rotor hub area.
Check on-line for the many parts supply sources, such as; www.autopartswarehouse.com or www.rockauto.com for the replacement parts.

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Visually inspect for any loose wiring or damaged and yes they are referred to as both.

The rear brakes are self-adjusting; each time you place the car in reverse and then step on the brake pedal.

1) Loosen the lug nuts on the front tires but don't remove them yet. Position a jack under the truck and raise the front end off the ground. Support the vehicle by inserting jack stands under the frame then setting the truck on them. Remove the tires from the truck and set them out of the way.

2) Remove the mounting bolts from the back of the brake caliper. There are two bolts, and they can be removed with a socket and ratchet or a wrench. Remove the caliper from the mounting bracket and support the caliper with a piece of wire or string so that it hangs out of the way.

3) Remove the six bolts on the grease cover in the center of the front hub with a socket and ratchet. Remove the grease cover, exposing the spindle nut and lock washer under the cover.

4) Release the lock tang on the lock washer by bending the tang up with a flat screwdriver. Remove the spindle nut using a spindle nut socket and a breaker bar. This nut is very large; you can get the specialty socket to fit it at many auto parts stores.

5) Remove the hub by sliding it straight out and off the spindle. The outer bearing, thrust washer, rotor and hub will all come off as a unit.