i'd stick to the legacy / outback models. 2.5L car is preferred, 96 - 98 (some early 99). if you get a trans out of a 2.2L car, you will need the rear differential, (unless it just happens to be a 96 2.2L outback with the trans # TZ102Z2ABA.)

these trans should fit:
TZ102Z2ABA = 96 outback (2.2L)
TZ102Z2ABA = 96 outback (2.5L)..... same trans.

TZ102Z2CBA = 97 outback...................may need TCU
TZ102Z2CAA = 97 legacy LSi...............may need TCU
TZ102Z2CCA = 97 legacy GT...............may need TCU

TZ102Z2DBA = 98 outback (early 99).....may need TCU
TZ102Z2DCA = 98 legacy GT...............may need TCU


TZ102ZABAA + 96 legacy (all 2.2L cars except outback)........will need rear diff, maybe TCU
TZ102ZACAA + 97 legacy (2.2L)...........will need rear diff, maybe TCU
TZ102ZACAA + 98 legacy (2.2L)...........will need rear diff, maybe TCU

the 95 legacy 2.2L trans may work, but there were some other changes that took place that year so unless it was free, i'd stick with 96 - 98.
TZ102ZAAAA + 95 legacy (2.2L)...........will need rear diff, probably TCU

Try the 'How-To-Guides' this website for specific details and steps to remove the drive axle.

Then you are doing something wrong with your install. You must know at this point that another person has to do the job. The bearings are being destroyed by something in your install process. What that is I have no idea.

Thoroughly clean and carefully examine all of the associated parts. Make sure the bearing is not loose and is pressed all of the way into place and is a firm fit. Check the inner race hub for any evidence of the inner race turning on the hub.

Other than those things - be sure to grease the bearing with the recommended lube and don't mix different types of grease - and the bearing should outlast the vehicle in the future.

Have you had the tires aligned recently? if the tires are out of alignment, or if a brake is stuck on the front right, the car will pull to the right and wear out the wheel bearing faster.
Also, if the CV Boot is torn, FIX IT RIGHT AWAY any dirt or grime that gets in there will QUICKLY wear out the CV joint.

Try to check out on the upper part of this page http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/.../4_cyl_2-dot-5l.html and check the Learn More icon on the INTERNATIONAL SHIPPING for your query.

First, raise and support the vehicle safely. Remove the tire and wheel assembly. Remove the dust cap. Straithen the locking washer edge. Remove the nut, lockwasher and washer. Remove the brake drum. Be sure not to drop the outer bearing. Remove the brake line bracket from the spindle housing. Loosen the bolts and remove the brake assembly. Suspend the assembly aside with wire.

Note: the brake drum cannot be removed by hand, use remover tool or equivalent to remove the drum.

Using floor jack, support the suspension under the lower control arm. Remove the strut-to-spindle bolts and nuts, remove the trailing link-to-spindle bolt and nut. Remove the spindle-to-lower arm bolt and nut. Remove spindle.

To Install:
Clean and inspect the spindle and spacer for damage for deformation. Replace as necessary. Attach the spindle housing to the lower arm and install the bolt and nut loosely at this time. Attach the trailing arm to the spindle and install the bolt nut loosely at this time. Install the strut to the spindle housing and install the bolts and nuts loosely at this time. Tighten the strut-to-spindle bolts and nuts to 72-87ft lbs, the trailing link-to-spindle bolt and nut to 43-58ft lbs and the spindle-to-lower arm bolt and nut to 59-69ft lbs. Install the remaining components in the reverse order of removal. Tigthen each component to specifications.

Note: prior to installing the brake drum, make sure the spacer is stalled in the correct direction on the spindle.

Install the wheel and tire, lower the vehicle and test drive.

First, raise and support the vehicle safely. Remove the tire and wheel assembly. Remove the dust cap. Straithen the locking washer edge. Remove the nut, lockwasher and washer. Remove the brake drum. Be sure not to drop the outer bearing. Remove the brake line bracket from the spindle housing. Loosen the bolts and remove the brake assembly. Suspend the assembly aside with wire.

Note: the brake drum cannot be removed by hand, use remover tool or equivalent to remove the drum.

Using floor jack, support the suspension under the lower control arm. Remove the strut-to-spindle bolts and nuts, remove the trailing link-to-spindle bolt and nut. Remove the spindle-to-lower arm bolt and nut. Remove spindle.

To Install:
Clean and inspect the spindle and spacer for damage for deformation. Replace as necessary. Attach the spindle housing to the lower arm and install the bolt and nut loosely at this time. Attach the trailing arm to the spindle and install the bolt nut loosely at this time. Install the strut to the spindle housing and install the bolts and nuts loosely at this time. Tighten the strut-to-spindle bolts and nuts to 72-87ft lbs, the trailing link-to-spindle bolt and nut to 43-58ft lbs and the spindle-to-lower arm bolt and nut to 59-69ft lbs. Install the remaining components in the reverse order of removal. Tigthen each component to specifications.

Note: prior to installing the brake drum, make sure the spacer is stalled in the correct direction on the spindle.

Install the wheel and tire, lower the vehicle and test drive.

The 1991 Subaru Legacy belongs to the First Generation and the 1995 Subaru Legacy belongs to the Second Generation. I don't think it can interchange.

Your transmission is either siezed due to internal damage or its linkage is broken or binding. Nonetheless, what you need here is a transmission shop. If the neutral safety switch is defective, you will not able to start the engine. The brake switch could be defective or there's a short in its wiring circuit. A good multi tester is needed to test the switch and its wiring for voltage and continuity.

This is not a major problem so do not worry about major tranny issues. The reason it is stuck in park is because the shifter interlock is not being activated. It is activated by stepping on the brake. You might not get through the diagnosis yourself but I know this is not major.

Hope this helps

http://parts.theujointstore.com/
http://www.rockforddriveline.com/replacem.htm


But as far as i know, the subaru ones are machined in and not designed for replacement. They're such low angle, they don't fail very often. Also, they are welded to the driveshaft instead of being able to be removed from it, so you need a shop that can cut the old ones off and weld the new ones on.

Try to navigate to this link http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc it might help you with your query.

You should try to check if there is a stored trouble code. Try to navigate to this link http://www.extreme-check-engine-light-codes.com... to have an idea how to extract stored trouble code in your vehicle since your vehicle is equipped with OBD I.