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Saturn transmissions & drivetrains repair questions and answers

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  • piedsters1
    piedsters1 - 1995 Saturn SW2 - Transmissions & Drivetrains - 3/7/2011
    How do i change my alternator
    • HPI Vorza
      2/16/2011 HPI Vorza
      IF you remove the right front tire and guard this will give you easy access to your alternator. You will need to jack your car up. It sits underneath the engine to the right of the starter. If you locate the oil filter you'll see it right in front of you. Just disconnect your battery and then the plasitc guard on the alternator held on by a single bolt. Then disconnect all wires. Next, Unscrew the two bolts that runn across the bottom. Put a 14mm on the tensioner to put some slack in the serpentine belt and pull the 14mm wrench. Take the belt from around the alternator and then remove the bolt on the top right of the alternator. that one in particular is a little hard to get to, but take your time and you will be able to get to it.
    • yboy82
      3/7/2011 yboy82

      You have to disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the serpentine drive belt. And then raise and support the vehicle safely. Remove the right front wheel from the vehicle. Remove the right wheel inner fender splash shield.

      And if equipped, remove the alternator dust shield attaching bolt and unclip the shield from the alternator. When removing the dust shield, be careful not to damage the rubber boot over the battery's positive terminal. Disengage the alternator field wire connector.

      You should remove the retaining nut and wire from the positive (B+) terminal on the back of the alternator, using alternator output stud wrench SA9401C or equivalent, as a back-up wrench to prevent the stud from rotating. If your positive terminal stud rotates, the plastic insulator will crack or break, causing alternator failure.

      Remove the upper and lower alternator attaching bolts. And then remove the alternator from the vehicle through the wheel well opening.

    • yboy82
      3/7/2011 yboy82

      You should position the alternator in the vehicle and install the lower attaching bolt. And then Install the upper attaching bolt and tighten both bolts to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm). Reconnect the alternator field wire connector. Install the B+ terminal wire. The battery terminal wire should be placed on the back of the alternator between a 10 and 11 o'clock position.

      Be certain to use the alternator output stud wrench SA9401C to prevent the terminal stud from rotating, then tighten the alternator positive terminal nut to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm). Install the alternator dust shield and tighten the fastener bolt to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm). Install the serpentine drive belt. Install the wheel well splash shield and right front wheel. Tighten the wheel lugs in a criss-cross pattern to 103 ft. lbs. (140 Nm). Remove the supports and lower the vehicle. Lastly, reconnect the negative battery cable.
  • theBABBLER
    theBABBLER - 1999 Saturn SL2 - Transmissions & Drivetrains - 3/7/2011
    Trans stays in first gear when in drive.
    you can move shift lever to any gear but only engages first gear and reverse , if shifted into 2nd or 3rd it's as if you were just in drive and stuck in first gear
    • yboy82
      3/7/2011 yboy82
      It is possible that the fault of your vehicle's problem is internal (might be worn/damaged clutches and brakes inside your tranny).

      Is your check engine light ON? Did you already diagnose your vehicle with a scan tool to determine if there is a stored trouble code and to verify if all your electrical controls and sensors in your transmission are still functioning well?
  • marmie
    • yboy82
      3/7/2011 yboy82
      Is your check engine light ON? Did you already diagnose your vehicle with a scan tool to determine if there is a stored trouble code and to verify if all your electrical controls and sensors in your transmission are still functioning well?
  • daniel
    daniel - 1993 Saturn SL2 - Transmissions & Drivetrains - 3/7/2011
    Will not down shift when suppose too want pull up hill slow take off reves up when changes gears.changed fillterand fi
    changed filter and fluid i think it is in the sensors or compuper
    • yboy82
      3/7/2011 yboy82
      Did you already diagnose it with a scan tool to verify if there is a stored trouble code and to determine if all your electrical control and sensors are still working?
  • lynp71
    • Dealer Diagnostics
      the fluid is thicker when its cold, so it will not leak past the seals as easily. when its warm it is thinner and will leak right past the seal. so the reverse seal is definitely leaking, time to rebuild or replace.
  • Angelgirly1992
    Angelgirly1992 - 1997 Saturn SL2 - Transmissions & Drivetrains - 2/21/2011
    Key stuck, what is wrong?
    I have a 97 SL2 Saturn. When I put the key in to start it, sometimes it won't turn over. If I take the key out then put it back in, it starts. Sometimes, I can't get it out of the ignition. This happens with both keys. The keys seem to be stuck somehow, like ...
    • yboy82
      2/21/2011 yboy82
      It is possible that your steering wheel lock is applying pressure that's why you can't turn your key sometimes. Check the condition of your steering wheel lock it might be out of adjustment or broken.
  • amberfrnc
    amberfrnc - 1994 Saturn SW1 - Transmissions & Drivetrains - 2/21/2011
    Where is auto.tran. speed sensor?Is the tran. filter external
    1994 saturn sw1
    • Nissan Technical Advisor
      Perhaps you are referring to vehicle speed sensor. A wheel speed sensor or vehicle speed sensor (VSS) is a type of tachometer. It is a sender device used for reading the speed of a vehicle's wheel rotation. It usually consists of a toothed ring and pickup and usually mounted on top of the differential. The VSS input reading sent to PCM for shifting the gears properly.
  • fabian trauth
    fabian trauth - 1997 Saturn SL1 - Transmissions & Drivetrains - 2/16/2011
    When in gear car will not move but speedometer works
    was driving fine got to stop light put in 1st car will not move speedometer does move no noise
    • HPI Vorza
      2/16/2011 HPI Vorza
      Did you do anything to your car before you moved? Such as a clutch replacement? It may just be your axle is not attached to the engine properly.
    • HouseCallAuto
      2/16/2011 HouseCallAuto
      Broken front drive axle at the cv joint maybe.
  • Michael J Rose
  • Louie Lopez
    Louie Lopez - 2004 Saturn Vue - Transmissions & Drivetrains - 2/11/2011
    Vehicle doesnt shift into reverse. unable to locate trans dipstick.
    • Bender
      2/8/2011 Bender
      Is your check engine light on? I really cant shed much light on the reverse thing but i can helpt you with your disptick problem..

      Looking from the front of the car, it is toward the right side just behind the radiator. The fluid is Toyota T-IV. The dealer has it as 'GM IV'. Also, Valvoline Max Life Dex/Merc is rated for most any trans service including T-IV. The change is easy, but some things have to be prepared first. You will need 4.5 quarts of fluid. You will need a long, skinny funnel with a small end to fit in the dipstick tube. I bought one at NAPA with a 12" section of clear tubing and a little fitting on the end with a cap. I had to go to the hardware store and buy a longer piece of vinyl tubing - I figured I needed about 14". Interestingly, the end fitting has a flange in the middle that the spring clamp on the dipstick tube snapped over to conveniently hold the end piece inside the dipstick. You must get your funnel right before letting the old oil out. Now you'll need a large flat pan - any oil change container that will fit under the car will work. I didn't know how far the old would shoot out when I took the plug out, so I used an old large kitty litter pan. I knew I had been saving it for ten years for something. Turns out the oil doesn't come out with much force, so a regular round oil change container would work. Now you need a 15/16" socket, wrench or adjustable wrench for the trans drain plug. The fluid should be warm, doesn't have to be hot. Drain it and take the drain plug and blast the steel dust off the magnet on the end of the plug with brake cleaner. After draining, replace the plug and snug it down until it stops, then just give it another little tug to be sure. Don't put your weight on the wrench. At this point I used a calibrated clean milk jug to determine exactly how much oil came out. The book said 4.5 quarts and it was right, so everybody else can skip that step assuming the trans had enough fluid in it to run properly. Now the fun part - make sure the funnel end is in the dipstick tube and start pouring in the 4.5 qts. When finished, you're done. You now have replaced about half of your trans fluid, for a 1:1 ratio. If you do it again at the next oil change, you'll then have a 3:1 ratio of clean:dirty oil. One more time in six months and you'll be at 7:1, which is good enough. Anyway, now is the time to drive it around and warm up the trans for checking the fluid level. When you get back, look under there for leaks. The problem now is you may have trouble getting your hand down to the dipstick with the engine running, which is how the fluid is checked. I have to shove my left arm down there up to the armpit, then use the thumb to pull back the spring clamp while the other fingers pull up on the 'button' on top of the stick to release it. Then you wipe it, replace it, pull it again and this time read it. It could be on the 'hot' mark, 1/8" over or even 1/4" under and its okay. I cut the 'button' off the top of my dipstick, clamped a 2" piece of 1/4" Fuel Vapor hose over the remaining stem, then put a 8" piece of 1/4" wood dowel rod in the other end of the hose. This makes it a world better getting to the stick, but I still reach down to the dipstick tube to pull the clamp back when removing the dipstick.
    • Shawnah77
      2/11/2011 Shawnah77
      it's located back side of tranny it's red
  • Shawnah77
    Shawnah77 - 2002 Saturn SL - Transmissions & Drivetrains - 2/11/2011
    My car is making a winding noise when i take my foot off the cluch.What could this be?
    And when i try to move the car the engine rocks.

      Proper lubrication during clutch installation can reduce the chances of noise problems down the road. Squeals and growls are usually caused by worn or seized bearings. Chirping noises are usually caused by vibration somewhere in the release system. Determine the source of bearing noise by setting the parking brake, putting the vehicle in neutral and starting the engine. Refer to the chart below to determine the source of the noise.


      Grinding when the clutch is engaged is normally the transmission input bearing,

      Squealing when the pedal is actuated and held down is normally the pilot bearing or bushing.

      Chirping that intensifies when the pedal is slowly, actuated is normally the release bearing

      Chirping while idling in neutral that disappears when the pedal is depressed is normally the fork or pivot ball.
  • Dennis
      Is the battery holding charge? Check the cables on the battery/fusebox to make sure they are not loose. Also check your Alternator. Your car runs off the alternator when its running, only uses Battery when its off. Accessories also run off the battery when your driving (dvd/cd players, speakers, amps) all of this drains the batt and the alternator recharges it. I'd check for a loose connection first, then test the Battery and Alt
  • Bigc
    Bigc - 2000 Saturn SL - Transmissions & Drivetrains - 2/1/2011
    What is torque converter clutch solenoid circuit stuck on
    • Bender
      2/1/2011 Bender
      I believe thats P0742

      A P0742 is usually caused by a hydraulic or internal transmission concern.
      The TCC release switch is a normally-closed switch and anything that can cause it to stick open will cause this code.

      Inspect theTFP manual valve position switch.
      Inspect the TCC release switch for the following conditions:
      - A damaged or leaking seal

      - Sediment or debris

      - Damaged switch contacts

      - Stuck switch contacts
      TCC control valve stuck

      - TCC feed limit valve stuck

      - TCC regulator apply valve stuck

      - TCC PWM solenoid valve stuck

      - Pressure regulator valve stuck
  • jj
    jj - 2007 Saturn Ion - Transmissions & Drivetrains - 1/25/2011
    The ignition key does not turn back afer cas has been started? is is the lock cylinder?
    2007 saturn iion ignition key does not turn back. Took out lock cylinder and can turn back w/ screw driver.
    • yboy82
      1/25/2011 yboy82
      When it turns back with screw driver did you also try to use the key?
  • todd1
    • James Vaughn
      1/22/2011 James Vaughn
      have the vehicle scanned at an advance auto or auto zone and post them here so we can help you better. it's free. good luck
      DTC P0700 Transmission Control System Malfunction
      p1791 is an invalid accelerator pedal data from the ECM code

      P2128 - TPS, or APP

      P2138: Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor
    • todd1
      1/23/2011 todd1
      Four codes came up
      Thanks for your help
    • todd1
      1/23/2011 todd1
      Thanks Joe
      I am going to throw in that the sunroof was leaking, could this code thing be caused by the 40 pin connector and bad connections , i just pulled the panel off to check it and found it is wet and icy. Its cold here