Yes, true statement - the front wheel hub / bearing assembly is integral (one-piece) design. The entire hub assembly is replaced if the bearing is faulty.

Instructions:
1) Jack your car up and set it on jack stands, taking care to use the manufacturer's recommended jacking points and jack stand locations. Remove the tire and turn the wheel until you can see behind it. This exposes the brake caliper. Take off the top and bottom 13 mm bolts with an impact or socket wrench. If your garage is set up for one, the impact wrench is faster, but much more expensive.

Stand facing the side of the brake caliper. Take both hands and with uniform pressure pull it off and tie it with wire or rope onto the large spiral spring above the wheel area.

2) Grasp the brake rotor with both hands, pull it off and set it aside. You are now viewing the wheel bearing hub. On the back, close to the inside are three bolts. Take the 1/2 inch ratchet wrench and place it over the recessed top bolt. Turn the ratchet. If the bolt will not go, place a closed end wrench over the end of the ratchet wrench. This should exert enough force to turn the recessed bolt as long as you keep the ratchet wrench pressed tightly against the recessed bolt. You will hear a creak or groan. Ratchet the bolt free from the hub. Ratchet the second bolt. Turn the steering wheel until the third bolt exposes itself. Ratchet the third bolt. Reach your hand in behind and disconnect the plastic ABS sensor as well as a metal clip formerly attached to the hub.

3) Remove the 32mm to 35mm center bolt with an impact wrench. Take the hub with both hands and remove it from the axle. If it won't budge, bolt an axle puller to the lug nuts. Remove the hub from the axle by pushing and pulling. Play in the axle is fine.

4) Compare the old hub with the shiny new hub. It must have the same ABS connector and the back side must look the same. Make sure the old bolts thread easily into it. Remove all the bolts.

5) Reverse the above process. After you thread in and tighten the three wheel bearing bolts, torque them individually to 85 to 95 lbs. Within 10 to 15 minutes you should have a new hub installed.

Check with the many on-line auto parts sources, such as; www.autopartswarehouse.com or www.rockauto.com. They (RockAuto) list the front wheel hub assembly from around $75.00 each for your vehicle. Remember to always replace the hub bearing assemblies in pairs - due to age / mileage / wear considerations.

I will answer this in two ways. First, the old lock cylinder after removal has a brass side cover that covers the tumbler inserts. Pry it off. I believe there are 9 inserts. After removing the 9 springs, if there are inserts that you can pull out one at a time keeping track of the location of each, each one has a number stamped on it just like the new cylinder inserts. Copy the code order to your new cylinder. If you cannot do that because the cylinder is too destroyed, then take your existing key to a locksmith and ask him to code the new cylinder for you for a small fee. He will read the key cuts and know how to assemble the new cylinder inserts.

The power steering in your Saturn is electric and is powered by an electric motor. Most cars do not have electric power steering. Because the power steering function is dependent upon electrical power being present for the power steering, any condition that causes a loss of battery voltage to the power steering control module can turn on an error message to "service the power steering" so do not focus on the power steering for now, just deal with the no start / no crank and the error message will solve itself after the starting is solved. I believe that your Saturn either needs a jump start due to the battery being discharged for some reason or a bad battery or the negative cable from the battery that attaches to the engine is loose or a bad connection (check it), OR there is a bad ignition switch. These Saturn Ions are well known for bad ignition switches causing a no crank condition. Is there a chance this Ion has a bad battery? Is it like 4 or 5 years old maybe? If you tried to jump start this car, make sure that you hook the jumper cables correctly because on this car there is a situation that attaching the jumper cables to the incorrect places can cause the 60 amp EPS fuse (electric power steering) to burn open. So check that fuse also. It is in the underhood fuse panel, fuse # 43.

Even though your car has low mileage, it has a few years under its belt. Generally struts last longer than that. Usually in the 60K plus range depending on your driving conditions and climate. If you didn't have any specific ride complaints, I would get a second opinion from someone you trust, or ask them to show you why you need your struts replaced.
Hope that helps.

Most of the cases tire spinning is due to lack of friction for a nice grasp. When they are wrongly fixed they can also spin especially on wet grounds. Wearing of tires can, however, be controlled by only one way and that is by replacing the tires. You can check out on http://4wheelonline.com/StreetBikes/Street_Bike_Tires.167768 for a variety you can opt for..

Several possibilities; faulty / loose suspension bushing, faulty / loose brake component, faulty / loose strut mount. As a next step, raise the front wheels off the ground (support with jack stands) for a closer inspection.
You may also check the exhaust system - sometimes the convertor shield or guard will become loose and rattle.

Contact the dealership for the complete TSB details, or on-line at www.alldata.com

Contact the dealership for the complete TSB details, or on-line at www.alldata.com

get your differential checked in the transmission