Usually, the front and rear struts have these differences - the mounting, the length, the load carrying capacity, among other characteristics.
Try the many on-line auto parts sources, such as; www.autopartswarehouse.com, www.rockauto.com - to list only two. They (RockAuto) list the replacement front or rear struts and shocks from around $83.00 each for your vehicle.

Usually, the front and rear struts have these differences - the mounting, the length, the load carrying capacity, among other characteristics.
Try the many on-line auto parts sources, such as; www.autopartswarehouse.com, www.rockauto.com - to list only two. They (RockAuto) list the replacement front or rear struts and shocks from around $83.00 each for your vehicle.

Usually, the front and rear struts have these differences - the mounting, the length, the load carrying capacity, among other characteristics.
Try the many on-line auto parts sources, such as; www.autopartswarehouse.com, www.rockauto.com - to list only two. They (RockAuto) list the replacement front or rear struts and shocks from around $83.00 each for your vehicle.

Usually, the front and rear struts have these differences - the mounting, the length, the load carrying capacity, among other characteristics.

You did not state the specific Chevy Impala year for the question.
The Chevrolet Impala tire size is; 155/90/16 - and would not fit the Pontiac Vibe. The Vibe has 205 / 55 R16 wheels and tires - with a 100 mm bolt pattern.

get an alignment.....

No need for a wheel alignment if any part of the steering or suspension sytem (such as the control arm) is worn - the alignment will not 'hold' or remain effective with any worn parts.
Replace the control arm as first step, then have the alignment performed - to eliminate any further abnormal tire wear.
Check the many on-line auto parts sources, such as; www.autopartswarehouse.com or www.rockauto.com for the replacement parts. For example, they (RockAuto) list the front control arm from around $58.00 (includes ball joint and bushings) for your vehicle.

yeah it is the tires. Could be alignment or could be a split in a tire. Get it checked out. Good rule of thumb is stick a penny in your tread and if it doesnt cover up honest abe then get em replaced. of course not all of us can so just get them checked out at a tire shop....

Need more information - during what conditions is the noise heard? During braking? During Turns? Over bumps? Without having more information and details - such as described, it's hard to properly diagnose.
Try the 'Diagnose' feature on the AutoMD website to better describe the issue you are having, then post a reply for further assistance.

It's most likely a link arm worn rubber, or a bad ball joint. As jim have pointed out, start looking for patterns of when the noise actually happens. Another thing you can do, is raise the car and be sure to be safe, and start moving around the bars, joints etc. in the frond end. You will find something lose or worn and is causing your clunking.

That does sound kind of strange. Maybe the installer is overtightening the hub nut. That will cause repeated failures and also make sure that the brand of bearing that is used is either Timken or ACDELCO or Moog or SKF. These brands are of the highest quality.

Could be bent control arms, in any case get fixed or looked at before driving anymore.

Sounds like you may have bent a suspension component, and you should have the alignment checked to confirm it.

The fact that you had CV axles replaced twice kind of eliminates the CV joint as a possible. I cannot make out the noise in your video. The fact that the hub bearings were replaced once and a few months back tells me that between the two things, the hub bearing has a much higher probability of being your cause. Also, confirm that there are no tire rub marks on the inside of both wheel well splash wraps. I agree with you that typically, noise that is only heard in a turn is usually a bad CV axle or a bad bub bearing. To further add detail based on my own experiences, Hub bearing noises that only show up in a turn, usually only show up when the wheel is turned *slightly* in one direction or the other and almost never both. The point I am trying to make is that they almost never make noise only when in a HARD turn. The typical scenario would be you are driving along straight at 50 mph in the left lane with no noise and the slight movement you make to change lanes is when you would hear a bad hub bearing make noise.
The CV joints on the other hand typically make noise when in a hard turn while you are accelerating. When I suspect a bad CV joint on any car, the best test for that is to drive the car in circles in a parking lot with the wheel cut all the way in one direction. Apply the brake slightly while accelerating in circles at like 3 mph and listen for the noise. A bad CV joint sounds like metal marbles banging against each other. when you straighten out the steering the noise is always gone.

And then there is always the possibility that you have some other anamoly like maybe the tin splash shield that protects the rotor is slightly bent and rubs on the rotor when under the side load of a hard right turn. Check the rotor and the shield for rub marks and a sufficient amount of clearance at all points of the rotor. Look closely with patience.

This is a scraping sound, jack up vehicle with wheel turned and hand spin to find culprit.