from underneath the car where the wires go into the fog light, turn that bulb socket one way or the other like a headlight and it will come right out.

Bullshit. That S.O.B. fog lamp takes longer to replace than performing an oil change. That design must have been from a 1st year wet behind the ears engineer working at Ford.
Do yourself a favor and put the car on ramps (chocks and jacks too), locate and turn the fog lamp connector 1/4 to 1/2 turn CCW. It will slide out now.
Take note that the lamp base does not have 3 equal flanges that keep in it in place.

Take a peek into the fog lamp lens and take notice that:
1) the lamp goes in at a very slight angle
2) this is where making note of where the largest flange at the base orf the lamp socket will mate with the fog lamp keep you partially sane.
3) Keep the bulb clean and free of dirt and fingerprints. The oil from your hand is enough to cause a hot spot on the bulb and kill it from the get go.
4) The bulb is very delicate. Notice that it is only spot welded to the base by some under paid slug in some foreign country and that you just paid 6+ US Dollars for a piece of crap. Keep the receipt so you can bring it back for an exchange in 3 hours. I'm serious.
5) This step should be step 1, but I found out the hard way. If you read this far - do it
Buy a 6 pack of your favorite beverage before doing the bulb replacement. It will help assist with all of the cursing that you will yell out a the the jerkoff engineer who designed this.
6) After, AFTER you are somewhat confident that it seated ok, turn the lamp switch on to check that the damn thing works. If it does, take a pair of pliers or cahnnel locks and lightly yet snugly tighten it. If you dont, you will notice that your newly installed fog lamp is rattling around inside of the fog lamp housing.

All of the steps may have to repeated.

If you had an easier time at this, I would like to hear from you.
If it was just as difficult,
I told you so.

Good Luck

Good Luck.

There is a sensor that screws in the corner of the cylinder head back by the firewall on the driver side. What is this sensor that has one green wire on it and looks like it was made on it.

Several possibilities; faulty coolant temperature switch, faulty temperature switch connection or wiring. The difference (generally) between water and coolant - is the term 'coolant' usually refers to the anti-freeze and water mixture in the cooling system. Typically ethylene glycol-based - it's job is to; 1) raise the boiling point sufficiently so the engine does not overheat, 2) remove heat from the radiator and 3) provide corrosion-resistance and protection inside the cooling system.

See this repair guides
GM Grand Am/Achieva/Calais/Skylark/Somerset 1985-98
Heater Core
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

More pictures than words.

http://www.autozone.com/.../...rGuideContent.jsp

check sway bar bushins

The most common problem is worn out control arm bushigns.

See this repair guide.

2004 Pontiac Truck Aztek 2WD 3.4L SFI 6cyl

Heating & Air Conditioning
Engine Mechanical
Drive Train
Brakes
Wiring Diagrams
Engine Electrical
Chassis Electrical
Body
Engine Cooling
Diagnostics
Steering
Fuel System
General Information
Engine & Vehicle Identification
Suspension
Engine Performance & Emission Controls

http://www.autozone.com/.../repairGuideMain.jsp


It's free.

Have you try michell1 or alldata

This could be the disc brake wear warning indicators telling you it is time to replace your brake pads, If you do need brake pads keep in mind that most brake rotors ought to be replaced at the same time. If the brake pads are more worn on one side of your car it indicates a problem with your calipers.

how was the alternator checked ? did you bring it to an auto parts store?

http://www.gaownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php

Hears a link that might help

Thanks for all the suggestions, the problem was the wires they were all cracked so I had them replaced.

FYI another thing that makes the lights dim . You see it all the time . A car with one bright light and one dim . Most times the dim light has a bad ground .

There are kits out there to polish and improve the clarity but the real fix is buy new ones. they are not difficult to replace.

I've had success with a clear plastic polish or compound by Meguiar's - cost around $4.00 - $5.00 at local auto part store. It goes on similar to wax - just apply using damp clean cloth, and buff clean. This will cut and remove the haze on the headlamp lenses.
House Call Auto is correct - if this treatment does not work - then the only other option is new headlamp assemblies.

I have a 2000 Grand Am GT1 and I replaced both my headlights, it's not difficult at all. I wouldn't spend extra money on the cleaner when in the long run you're going to have to change them anyway.

it usually means that one of your turn signal bulbs on that side is burnt out

is temporary code needs koer test to locate