Wish someone would have helped you with this, as I'm having the same problem with my 2005 Dodge Caravan, back a/c is blowing fine, but nothing blowing in front. AND, it was 105 today where I live. UGH Hope you get some answers as to what may be causing this.

unplug the connector that powers the front blower motor and check for 12 volts on one pin and ground on the other pin when the blower is on with engine running. Blower motor is under the dash, pass side, accessible.

It is either insufficient freon in compressor or gate valve on heater core not closing allowing hot coolant into system, thus no cooling after engine warms up.

The system is low on refrigerant 4 sure.

I will acknowledge the system not being low on refrigerant when you say you attached an AC manifold set and read the high and low side pressures. Until you do that I stand by my internet diagnosis based upon what you say is happening. Is the AC compressor remaining engaged or is it cycling on and off?

If it has dual zone climate control (separate temperature controls for driver and passenger area) then you have a stuck / failed blend door actuator on the side that will not change the temperature. Try smacking the bottom of the heater / AC housing.

OK, so, are you able to either attach a gauge set to read the low and hi pressure, or are you able to humor me and add about a half a pound of refrigerant? I know you said the system "has plenty of refrigerant" but that is not diagnostics.

The diagnostic strategy here is to see what is missing when it is in the no start mode. Do you hear the fuel pump run when the key is turned to "on"? It should hum for two seconds and stop.

P1151 = Lack of HO2S-21 Switch, Sensor Indicates Lean. It means a Heated Exhaust Oxygen (HO2S) sensor indicating lean at the end of a test is trying to correct for an over-rich condition. The test fails when the fuel control system no longer detects switching for a calibrated amount of time.
Causes: A code P1151 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

Electrical:
Short to VPWR in the harness or HO2S
Water in the harness connector
Open/shorted HO2S circuit
Corrosion or poor mating terminals and wiring
Damaged HO2S
Damaged PCM

Fuel System:
Excessive fuel pressure
Leaking/contaminated fuel injectors
Leaking fuel pressure regulator
Low fuel pressure or running out of fuel
Vapor recovery system

Induction System:
Air leaks after the MAF
Vacuum Leaks

PCV system:
Improperly seated engine oil dipstick

EGR System:
Leaking gasket
Stuck EGR valve
Leaking diaphragm or EVR

Base Engine:
Oil overfill
Cam Timing
Cylinder compression
Exhaust leaks before or near the HO2S(s)

Always add the refrigerant to the suction side of the compressor; this would be the low-pressure port. Usually the high-pressure and low-pressure ports are two (2) different sizes, so the connections cannot be mixed to accidently add the refrigerant to the high side (wrong port).

Try to check out the 43 TSB's and 1 Recall for your vehicle to have an idea about your query. You can visit this link to check it out http://www.automd.com/recall-tsb/search/ just click the title of the TSB or Recall to see its summary or content.

Did you already change your engine oil?

If with DIC you should turn your ignition key to on position. And then press the middle button on the right side of the steering wheel until "oil life xx% reset if new" is displayed. You should press the bottom button on the right side of the steering wheel. Press and hold bottom button until "oil life is reset to 100% is displayed. And then turn your ignition to off.

If without DIC you should turn your ignition key to on position. And then press the button below the speedometer until "oil life xx%" is displayed. Press and hold the button until "oil life 100%" is displayed. Press the button until the odometer is displayed again.

yes

I need to know if you have electronic automatic temperature control or just regular manual heating and air conditioning. The electronic version has a digital display. You can set the temperature in numbers as opposed to rotating a hot / cold knob with the manual system.

Get your old one, go back to the shop and match it with the new one. Besides, you just stated there are 2 part numbers, so guess what the correct part number is now :)

Source: Thats what i do with my parts. I bring the old one to be sure.

If you can read a part # and brand on the old filter that is still attached, that I could cross reference and tell you which one you have.

The motor and fuse are fine... you need a new switch

about every 50,000 miles is good for most late model cars

Get codes checked and re post