Most times the fix is to replace the EATC control head which is the controls that you input settings on the dash. Here is a detailed diag procedure if you are up to this sort of thing.>>

1. Verify manifold vacuum is present to the HVAC controls on the black vacuum line, and, that when the engine is shut off vacuum will hold in the vacuum line.

2. If vacuum bleeds off when the engine is shut off, inspect the vacuum line to the vacuum tree and to the vacuum reservoir.

3. If manifold vacuum is good to the HVAC control assembly, check the other individual vacuum lines with a hand-held vacuum pump to verify there is no excessive bleed-off indicating a related vacuum line or vacuum actuator problem.
The white vacuum line feeds the fresh air inlet door controlling the use of fresh air vs. recirculation air from inside the passenger compartment.
The red vacuum line feeds the defrost/floor vacuum motor. This actuator is sent a vacuum signal in every position except Defrost and Defrost/Floor.
The yellow vacuum line also feeds the defrost/floor vacuum motor. This vacuum line sends the actuator a vacuum signal in all positions except defrost.
The blue vacuum line feeds the panel door vacuum motor. This vacuum line sends the actuator a signal in the MAX A/C, NORM A/C or VENT positions.

4. If the black vacuum line is feeding the control assembly a proper vacuum signal and the actuators are pulling and holding a vacuum signal using the hand-held pump, the HVAC control assembly is failing.
Potential Causes: Heater Ventilation Air Conditioner (HVAC) Actuator
HVAC Control Assembly
Vacuum Line
Vacuum Lines Connections
Defective Vacuum Tank

Check the fuse for the wipers in the fuse box.Check your relay switch in fuse box for headlights.The relays are the big square things in your fuse box.

Check the sunload sensor circuit. Test the sensor resistance between pin 1 and 5. Should have continuity.
1. Disconnect the Sunload sensor 6 cavity connector. The sensor is located above the glove box on the dash. Measure continuity between the sensor terminal 1 (Brown wire will connect to it) and terminal 5 (Black/Yellow will connect to it).

2. The sensor should show continuity. The value will change based on the intensity of light applied to it. If the sensor reads open, replace the sensor, clear codes and retest for proper operation.

Usually a plastic ring turns counterclockwise just a bit and then the bulb pulls straight out with the wire attached.

We do not have the step by step procedure to copy and paste here. That information will have to come from the appropriate repair manual for your make and model.

if your abs light is on look into the wheel bearing

It is probably a bad hub bearing on the right side.

there is usually a float in the coolant reservoir that could be the problem.

What is a rest control?

probably need to replace the flasher
it should be in the fuse panel will look more like a reelay big square or round

Sounds like it could be the fan from your description. Can you disconnect the fan and see if the noise goes away?

Sounds like something is wrong with the circuit board behind the instrument cluster (Speedometer). You can replace the circuit board, but with all honestly, I would just get a used or new instrument cluster, from a junk yard or Ebay.

I bought an instrument cluster from a local junk yard. First, I replace the circuit board, but it didn't work; therefore, I put the old circuit board back in and replace the speedometer unit, and it works. Thanks

I suspect that you have a small fuel leak from a rotted fuel line on the left side frame rail toward the rear of the car just in front of the left rear tire. Sometimes the line is rotted so bad it is porous and seeping fuel slowly but yet does not drip.

Kevin - HouseCall Auto Mechanics