Try to reply and rephrase the issue / problem you are having in the form of a question. You may also try the 'Diagnose' feature on this website for additional detail for describing the issue you are having.

check the hoses/lines if they are worn out or the seals are also worn out...the lines/hoses/seals have to be replaced...adding atf or power steering fluid is temporary try to get it fixed by a trusted shop/mechanic...hope this helps...tell me how it turns out.

It can be because of a bent wheel or loose wheel bearing, it can also be worn steering or suspension parts. (Raise you vehicle up and check the stability of each component. I usually check for looseness by shaking the part left and right (Example: Tie rod end, to check if its moving because of worn out bushings.)

you have balanced the wheels? so i guess the tires are in good shape and get worn out evenly...if they are okay then i agree with bender...check the tire rods because the bushing gets worn out and while your at it check the suspension.

i forgot to add..check the ball joints too.there might also be some problem with it.

do you mean both left and right brake/reverse lights?check the fuses for the brake/reverse lights, if it's busted have it replaced with the same kind of fuse...if the fuses are okay, check the bulbs and if they are busted replace them with the same kind of bulbs....but it is unusual for all bulbs to go out all at the same time...hope this helps,,,tell me how it works out.

this is more than likely a faulty key or a fault in the drive authorization system. If you have a spare key I would try it. If that doesn't help or if you don't have a spare key the car will need to be connected to the Mercedes diagnostic tester for a diagnosis of the drive authorization system.

Try the AutomD Negotiator ( http://www.automd.com/negotiator/) feature on this site it is free. They will call local shops for the repair that you needed and send the multiple quotes from your local shops. So you can compare job prices within your area.

To have a rough estimate try the AutomD Negotiator ( http://www.automd.com/negotiator/) feature on this site it is free. They will call local shops for the repair that you needed and send the multiple quotes from your local shops. So you can compare job prices within your area.

Although I've never worked on an SL500, based on other MB automobiles, I suspect you need to remove the trunk compartment liner panels on each side. Typically the side-to-side panel locks the side panels in place so you need to remove it first. Then release the side panels from the upper clips and twist/lift the panels out of the trunk. Once you do one side the other will be easier.

When you are driving down the road and hit a bump, your car keeps bouncing for a while. This will gradually get worse as time goes by.

POSSIBLE CAUSES:

- The shock absorbers are worn or leaking.
- The shock mounts for the shock absorbers are broken or bent.

I doubt it. Try rotating the tires and see if the vibration changes. Moving tires is a useful diagnostic strategy.

That part is not repaired, its replaced. you must be able to rotate the key to position 1 in order to remove it. If you are unable to do that the steering lock will need to be cut from the column. More than likely the steering lock is your real problem and the key and barrel that your customer purchased won't solve the problem anyway. Sometimes you can get the key to turn by shaking and wiggling the key and the column. I've also had success in turning the key by vibrating the steering lock with an air hammer from underneath while a helper tries to turn the key. If you are able to get the key to turn you will probably notice that you can turn the key back and forth just fine until you remove the key and reengage the steering lock portion of the mechanism. That's why you will need to replace the entire lock assembly. You must cut the lock housing from underneath the dash. I've attached a picture below that shows approximately where to cut the housing. After that you'll need to try to pull the lock shaft out a little in order to be able to depress the pin that holds the lock into the column. 99% of the time it's the steering lock and not the tumbler that fails. It's nearly impossible to drill out the lock and by the time you do you will ruin the lock housing anyway. Try the air hammer trick and if you can get it to turn to position 1 you can insert your pin and unscrew your black cap but I can almost guarantee you that the steering lock is the real problem with the car.

No it wont,the application is lightyears away from your SUV. Now i scoured the net for parts and OEM spec springs i found are in UK and most of the US springs are lowering springs (Not bad if you ask me, id get them if i were you)

Here are some other sites, looking for parts for your car is challenging :)

http://www.benzpartswholesale.com/
http://www.mbpartswarehouse.com/

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