If the vehicle has the automatic transmission, then the radiator with the fluid cooler would be correct. Try the many on-line auto parts sources, such as; www.autopartswarehouse.com, www.partsgeek.com and www.rockauto.com for the replacement parts. For example, they (RockAuto) lists the replacement radiator (auto trans) from around $149.00 for your vehicle.

Mechanics do not have the ability to look up that info. Nobody does. Only way I see to answer your question partially is to stop at MB parts dept, ask then if you can see a fuel pump relay. The amps, don't know. is there some other way I can help you with your problem or does the answer to your questions matter more than anything?

You need to use a shop grade professional scan tool which typically only professional repair shops have because they cost 2000 bucks and up. Or, hunt around on the internet and find a dedicated abs code reader that states will read the codes on the abs system of your 02 MB 320. You may find one for 100 to 200 $

Check the vehicle owners and maintenence manuals for the oil and filter change intervals. The oil grade is 5w20 viscosity.

Possible Causes of Engine Hesitation or Stumble:

Dirty fuel injectors (cleaning the injectors often fixes this).
Bad MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor
Bad TPS (throttle position) sensor
Bad or dirty MAF (mass airflow) sensor
Low fuel pressure (leaky fuel pressure regulator or weak fuel pump)
Vacuum leaks (intake manifold, vacuum hoses, throttle body, EGR valve)
Bad gasoline (fuel contaminated with water or too much alcohol)

Sometimes, what feels like a hesitation is actually ignition misfire rather than lean misfire. The causes of ignition misfire may include:

Dirty or worn spark plugs
Bad plug wires
Weak ignition coil
Wet plug wires

My 89 mercedes 300e has the check engine light comes on and off. When its on the car sputters and doesnt want to accelerate. What can this problem be?

Need more information - what type of sound is heard? Is this a whine, clunk, scrape, grinding, squeal? Have you raised the hood to observe for yourself - with a helper starting the engine?
Like to offer further assistance, but without more detail - it's pretty difficult to diagnose an engine loud noise problem via the internet. Post a reply using the 'Diagnose' feature on the AutoMD website for further assistance.

Impossible to quote. There is no specific mention for this specific job in the two main labor guides used to look up labor estimates.

Ignition switch, starter relay or shifter cut off switch ?

First, check the battery and starter cables for their tightness or free of corrosion and physical damaged.

See this Starting system simplified diagram. Have a help from an assistant to crank the engine, use a 12 volt light tester or a digital voltmeter, apply it to the starter control circuit.
If there is light or 12 volts and the starter isn't cranking, then the starter is the culprit. Have the starter to bench test for free at the local auto parts stores.
If there isn't no light or no volts, then the ignition switch is the culprit.
Check the starter relay and position the Automatic transmission shifter in neutral.

http://www.samarins.com/glossary/starter.html

Note: a 3/4 charge battery is 12.50 volts
A discharge battery is 11.75 volts.
A battery under a cranking load and it is reading less than 7 volts,it will be a recycled battery.