normally fuel pump relay short circuited or ignition transistor box problem.

your fuel mixture might not adjusted correctly, send to workshop for adjustment co 1% - 1.5% max

This is caused by a leak in your vacuum system. Possibly in a door or trunk lock. It takes vacuum (suction) to turn off your fuel supply. You can turn it off manually by lifting the hood and holding the lever down that says engine turn off. Look for vacuum hoses that are disconnected. Your vacuum pump could also be weak, there is an inexpensive repair kit available.

fuel filter....fuel pump ...check them out

what you have is is a cold weather idel adjustment problem but when it warms up it is ok ...no big deal just a problem in the summer ,in winter that is what it is suppose to do

Just got this problem fixed on my '94 C280 - replaced bad air mass sensor, which was causing lean running condition which led to surging (and several other codes, which went away when the sensor was replaced). Get the part at autohausaz.com (around $180) and have your mechanic install it. Worked for me!
SteveO

Thanks. I will take your advice I have other older cars. May be a good investment.

Hook up a code reader to the diagnostic connector under the dashboard on the driver side. This is the way vehicles are diagnosed. The codes will lead to the repair necessary. The cost of the tool is not that much considering that a shop will bill you a similar amount PLUS parts and labor to fix the problem. There are instructions that come with it and it is easy to do. After you read the code or codes, write them down and repost with the codes and we can tell you what parts to buy to DIY if you are up to it. http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/.../E203030.html

A frequently overlooked vacuum leak is the rubber throttle body boot. It is mounted down in the engine "V" and is not visible without fuel distributor & airflow meter removal. A smoke test would be really handy to see if there's a vacuum leak in this area.

Many of these old Mercs had a cold start auxillary air valve mounted on the top of the intake forward of the airflow meter ass'y with large hoses on it. It's a beeswax type valve that closes with temperature. If the wax leaks out (internally), the valve will remain open. I'm not sure if your 107 is equipped with this valve, as my Merc data is nice and vague where it needs to be, but it's very possible. HTH.

The oil pan is held on with metric allen head bolts.I haven't looked in a while it ay be about 3mm, use the socket style allen wrench and you can use your impact wrench on most of the bolts..carefull the bolt heads round out real easy.

The best way is to go through the firewall from the engine compartment. After removing the freon, locate the 2 pressure lines that go into the firewall. Remove the little cover plate. Then remove the 2 pressure lines from the expansion valve. There should be 2 bolts holding the expansion valve to the evaporator. Remove these bolts and you should be able to wiggle the expansion valve out of the little opening. Hope this helps

Something in the vehicle is using power. Start with the simple things. Verify that the interior lights are off after the doors are all closed. Verify visually that they go out. Make sure that there are no exterior lights on. This will need to be diagnosed using a digital amp meter. I can give you the details if you are up to the DIY testing for a battery drain. Let me know, or in the meantime you will have to disconnect the negative battery cable each time the vehicle will be parked for more than a short time to avoid the drain on the battery.

I'm not sure what your problem is but we just replaced a fuel pump in a ML320 and found out we needed a "crank shaft position sensor" - located behind motor on drivers side. My vehicle was starting sometimes and sometimes not.
So far this has fixed our problem. It is a small part but it has something to do with the fuel.

sounds like bad injectors