Wooo hooooo if i had a penny everytime i heard that, anyway, the intake manifold is blocking your path right? Sorry chief, you have to remove that to gain access to the remaining plugs

By the way, you have one of the most elegant looking PUP truck i have ever seen. The F150 just looks brutal (which is ok) but yours have a distinctive touch of class

I was getting ready to replace them but I was surpriced to find out that it is a harder task than I thought

Blend door cood be stuck up or the actuator is defective. Check and replace it.

There may be a cabin air filter usually just below the cowling vent behind the hood and in front of the interior vent. The ac system filter (receiver drier) is sealed and part of the ac system, and does not need regular change or cleaning. You may also clean the a/c evaporator fins periodically - to improve the ac system efficiency and help cool air transfer to the interior.

Did you also check the light switch position and its operation? An internal faulty diode in your alternator can also cause it.

with all circuits closed,disconnect neg. batt. term.,hook a test light between neg. cble and batt. neg. test light will light up. now begin pulling fuses one at a time til light goes out,what ever circuit that fuse controls is where your short is and that is why your batt. keeps going dead.

Sounds like you need a new alternator.

get under the dash on pass. side and slap the bottom of the black plastic housing,something has inadvertantly fallen down dash vent and is preventing "door" from closing all the way. this door is used to change system from a/c to heat,whats happened to you is that heat is still coming through from heater core

hopefully its not a blown head gasket, but the coolant temp sensor is located on the intake manifold under the air intake tube so you have to remove that to get to it. other things to consider, is the fa clutch working properly to cool the engine, are you filling the coolant system correctly, meaning have you purged it correctly or are there air pockets trapped in the system.

I had the same problem in my 1993 Mark VIII. I replace the thermostat and it still overheated. Discovered fan was not kickin on. Shop diagnosed to the Variable Control Relay Module, whick controls the cooling fan. Advanced auto quoted price of 475.00 to replace and no warranty. So, instead, I sent the VCRM to "www.aesmodules.com" because they offered to rebuild mine for $275.00 with a year replacement warranty. This company promised to have it repaired in 2-3 business days...well, 3 weeks later they still have the module and do not return my calls. I went to advanced to purchase the one for 475.00 and when push came to shove, advanced could not get the part. Dealer cannot get part either. So, I went to local junk yard and got one there for 50.00 installed it expecting it to "fix" my problem. After installing the VCRM, the car still overheated. I was ready to burn the car! I started from square one and replaced the thermostat again and IT WORKED. Try fighting and diagnosing a problem like that with the thermostat, it is a pain! But all is well, all is working fine....check the thermostat and make sure fan is kicking in....

location ; try on the front of the intake manifold. there may be 2 units. # 1 is coolant temp send unit for gauge, and # 2 , a coolant-temp sensor which is for the computer. # 1 should be on the left looking at the front of engine, and # 2 just adjacent on the right side. obviously ck coolant level. also make sure the wiring between the light & gauge and the send unit is secure & all fuses intact. diconnect the wire unit from top of unit( careful-they are brittle ) and then unscrew the unit. if not done yet-hope this helps email e @ .srwiinlb@verizon.net

u should have an a/c shop inspect. a certain noise or clicking is normal as the unit cycles on/off. what kind of noise is it? low moan may be a dragging clutch assy in the compressor, due to reduced lubrication. also check for leak in line or air in the system due to insuff refrigerant- ( popping noise or...
make sure your belts are tight / adjusted as not to slip when the a/c unit engages. if the drive belt is slippery or shinney, , too hard or small fissure crack--replace it.

1. replace thermostat and reduce to 180 degrees for your drive conditions. 2. flush the cooloing system-it may be clooged. 3. get a after mkt lg radiator- 2-3 + qts more. marks were notrious for overheating in these conditions w the a/c on. do not overtighten ther housing. its cheap metal and will break. hand tight then light turn until snug only or torque wrench it.

Check the spare tire too.

Check and test wiper relay switch it could be failing, replace as need.

Towncars have a problem with wiper motor location. Its right between the windshield and the hood. That place gets a lot of leaves, dirt and water, and if you dont clean it on regular basis eventually you wiper motor will be flooded costing hundreds of dollars. I learned that the hard way. could that be the problem in your case?

check fuse, if good it may be the wiper motor

That is your air compressor pumping air in your air suspension. Totally normal. The reason you hear it at start ups is when you leave your car off air goes out little by little so it repumps it when you turn ignition on.It probably also runs while you drive too but you just cant hear it behind engine noise. The only problem I see here is how much of air does your car loses? if the compressor starts working too often I would check the airbags for air leak.

2 solenoids??????????????

The solenoid is next to the battery on the side of the engine compartment attached by a couple screws. To locate it, follow the wire from the battery. On the negative cable of the battery, there is another wire clipped to it. Follow that up to the solenoid.

1) Disconnect the positive battery cable from the battery

2) disconnect the 2 wires from the visible screws on the old solenoid, and gently pull the third wire (located lower than the other two on the solenoid.

3) remove the 2 screws holding the old solenoid in place.

4)Screw in the new solenoid, and make sure that the 3 wires attach to exactly where they were on the old one. If the third wire is on top it is installed wrong, flip it over.

5) reconnect the positive battery cable.

on some Lincolns such as that the solenoid is on the starter under the car and you would have to remove the starter to remove the solenoid.