Lincoln preventive maintenance repair questions and answers
Post your Lincoln preventive maintenance question or share what you know by answering questions
Browse Lincoln Categories
queenjosiah - 2007 Lincoln Town Car - Preventive Maintenance - 6/3/2012start after I got my oil change 06/02/2012 and car ran hot when I try to use a/c and this is the frist time it every happen and than the cooling fan stop working
poppy - 1992 Lincoln Town Car - Preventive Maintenance - 5/6/2012converted to newew 134 A conversion kit, added new freon , replaced ac/pressure switch to A more expensive 134A switch,now every thing working, lines cold as should, hot as should, drains off excess condensation, but still blows hor air; I am at lost here any ...
bullard - 1990 Lincoln Town Car - Preventive Maintenance - 5/1/2012Vehicle shuts off while driving. Still have headlights, radio, air but won't start back up. Replaced fuse three times. Works do a little bit then shuts off again with another blown fuse.
Mary - 2003 Lincoln Town Car - Preventive Maintenance - 3/30/2012
3/30/2012 EG9 K20A3Your fan relay is stuck on.
I am not sure exactly where it is located in the 03 but I guarantee that it is stuck. I believe it is actually mounted to the fan mounting brackets. If you have two fans, I believe it is right in the middle of them at the bottom.
I do not believe it is that expensive of a part nor is it really difficult to replace.
DON - 1996 Lincoln Mark VIII - Preventive Maintenance - 3/30/2012
3/30/2012 EG9 K20A3Potential causes of a P0412 code include:
* Short to ground on control circuit
* Short to voltage on control circuit
* Control circuit open due to damage, etc.
* Open or short on battery feed circuit to solenoid
* Open or short on battery feed to relay control circuit
If you have access to a scan tool, with KOEO (Key on engine off) command the AIR pump solenoid on and off. If the solenoid doesn't operate then unplug the solenoid and using a voltmeter, check for voltage being supplied to the solenoid when commanded on and also for good ground. If there is voltage being supplied and a good ground check for a good connection at the solenoid wiring harness connector. If the connection is good then replace the solenoid. If there is no voltage supplied to the connector when commanding the solenoid on, then find the AIR pump relay and verify that there is fused battery voltage present at the switched side of the circuit that is feeding voltage to the AIR pump.If not, check for blown fuse or open in the wiring. Repair and retest.
If battery voltage is present at the voltage feed side of the relay, then a fast way to check for proper solenoid and AIR pump operation is to use a fused jumper and manually activate it. Do this by jumpering battery voltage to switched AIR pump voltage feed. Usually this is terminals 30 and 87 of the relay schematic (not always). If the solenoid (and possibly the AIR pump) operates, then you know your wiring and solenoid are okay. If it doesn't activate, open the wiring harness and find the open or short in the voltage feed to the AIR pump solenoid and fix it. If jumpering the solenoid to battery voltage activates the solenoid, then it's time to check for voltage present with KOEO on the PCM controlled side of the relay. If there is none, again repair open or short in the circuit and retest.
To check the PCM wiring of the AIR pump solenoid, grounding the control circuit that is normally operated by the PCM will tell you if the wiring is intact. Grounding the circuit at the PCM connector with KOEO should activate the AIR pump relay, which in turn should activate the AIR pump & solenoid. If this doesn't work, then there is an open or short in the PCM control circuit. If grounding the control circuit operates the AIR pump and solenoid, verify the PCM has good ground paths and no damage to the connector or water intrusion. If that checks out, suspect an open driver in the PCM.
If you look down the drivers side of the engine, under the intake you'll see linkage that looks similar to the throttle cable linkage. This the linkage for the Intake Runners.. those are small butterfly valves that allow more airflow into the engine when you push the gas pedal all the way down to the floor (for better performance).
Three things can cause these to get stuck:
Carbon buildup in the intake passages. To correct this you'll need to remove the upper intake and clean it up
Stuck Intake Manifold Runner Control motor assembly.
Pay close attention to where the linkage connects.. there are small plastic clips that hold it together.. these tend to break.
Being that both are setting codes, I'd be looking at #2 closest. With the engine running at idle in park and while looking at the linkage, have someone floor the gas pedal quickly.. you should see the linkage move. Be careful not to "goose" it for too. If you don't see the linkage move, then most likely the motor is bad.
bigO - 2003 Lincoln Navigator - Preventive Maintenance - 3/6/2012i don't no what to do next
Youssef - 2000 Lincoln LS - Preventive Maintenance - 3/1/2012What am I supposed to do if there was a recall on the car that i own but I knew way to too late ?
3/1/2012 yboy82Recall is a repair order issued by a manufacturer to correct a defect that is a safety or pollution problem. The repair is covered by the manufacturer regardless of whether or not the vehicle warranty has expired. Recalls are Mandatory.
3/1/2012 yboy822000 Lincoln Ls Suspension Recall 00V359001
NHTSA: Action Number: N/A Service Bulletin Number: 00V359001
Nov 03, 2000 Component:
Suspension Potential Units Affected:
Ford Motor Company
Summary: Vehicle description: passenger vehicles. The front suspension lower ball joints were not tightened to specifications when they were attached to the lower control arms.
Consequence: If the ball joint attaching nuts are not adequately tightened, they can loosen and, ultimately, result in fracture of the ball joint stud. If the ball joint fractures, control of the vehicle could be affected, increasing the risk of a crash.
Remedy: Dealers will inspect the torque on the two ball joint attaching nuts. Vehicles with loose ball joint attaching nuts will either have the fasteners tightened to specification, or if necessary, the ball joints will be replaced.
Notes: Owner notification began november 24, 2000. Owners who take their vehicles to an authorized dealer on an agreed upon service date and do not receive the free remedy within a reasonable time should contact ford at 1-800-392-3673. Also contact the national highway traffic safety administration's auto safety hotline at 1-888-dash-2-dot (1-888-327-4236).
anshalun - 1999 Lincoln Town Car - Preventive Maintenance - 2/20/2012I was told some kind of door inside is not working properly. My defrost works fine. I thought I just needed freon for the a/c, but that didn't work. What is the problem and what's the cost for the repair.
LeeC - 1993 Lincoln Continental - Preventive Maintenance - 2/11/2012All the lights get brighter. the Voltage guage on the dash rises to the max. the charge system light is flashing. and the air bag light flashes twice then pauses and flashes twice again etc... I have already replaced the voltage regulator and it did nothing. Thank ...
edward - 1986 Lincoln Town Car - Preventive Maintenance - 2/7/2012
2/7/2012 Spoon SportsInside a car there are several competing effects. Firstly, you have at least one person breathing. The air that you exhale is very moist. In cool weather your breath will often supersaturate as it cools to the temperature of the surrounding air, hence you see a fog as you exhale. Every breathing person in the car is adding water to the air. Eventually the air will saturate. You will get fog or frost. So:
job #1 is keep a good flow of air coming in from the outside. In fact, the colder it is outside the drier that air is, so the more beneficial it is to compensate for your breathing. Typically a car fan will have settings from "off" (obviously not good) through various levels up to "recirculate". The most common mistake is to drive with the fan set at "recirculate" in order to have a high interior temperature to avoid fogging the windows. This may work in a car, it is less likely in a van, but in either case if you park on the street be prepared for a huge amount of frost on the inside windows when you return. "Recirculate" means reuse the air inside the car - so yes it is faster to get to higher temperatures, but the relative humidity of the air in the car will keep rising. I use recirculate only to attain a more comfortable state quickly, and possibly to melt existing frost more quickly, but to keep it on once the car temperature has started to rise is asking for trouble.
#2: keep the car cool Even a few degrees can affect the maximum amount of water in the air quite significantly. The less water in the air, the slower the windows will frost up. The dilemma here is that if the windows are frosty it seems best to heat up the car. Its best to scrape that frost off, but if you want to do it with heat take a long enough drive that you can turn down the temperature and drive until the air is cool and dry inside (or else you'll have the same start with frosty windows problem next time).
#3: Use the temperature setting to control the temperature That might seem obvious, but I often see people turn down the airflow as the car gets too hot. It might be more pleasant due to less wind and reducing noise in the car, but if frosting windows is your concern don't lose sight of #1 above. There is a temperature control that affects how the air is heated as it enters the car - use that to control the car temperature.
#4: warm the windows Your windows will be colder than the air inside the car. This is especially true if cold rain or snow is hitting them, but with a constant flow of cold air against them as you drive they will naturally cool down. You need to direct the warm air from the vents against the windows to compensate for this. The bigger the difference between the air and the window temperatures, the lower the relative humidity that will still fog the windows up. This can be illustrated with the doubling every 10oC rule. For example, suppose the air is 20oC (68oF), and a window is at 10oC (50oF). If the air in the car is over 50% relative humidity the window will fog up. If the window is at 0oC (32oF) it will fog up if the air is above 25% relative humidity. Hence, warming the window by even a few degrees can make all the difference between a window fogging up or not under given conditions.
#5: keep outside air flowing over the windows #4 emphasized using warm air flow against the windows. Even if the air isn't warm, the fact is that outside air - having been colder - will probably be drier than the air inside the car. The drier the air against the window the faster the water can evaporate off because there is less condensing back on from the air. You can demonstrate this by putting a little water in two saucers. Leave one standing, set a fan blowing over the other. The one with the fan will dry out faster (both will take a long time, depending on how much you put in). The one without the fan gets moist air over the water surface from evaporation, and without that being pushed away it is soon condensing back in about as fast as it evaporates.
Something curious I've found is that fogging windows isn't exclusively a winter phenomena. We sometimes get the windows fog up on hot humid days and long trips. With the air conditioner running full time in the car the windows can become enough cold compared to the outside air to start fogging up on the outside. This only happens significantly near air vents, so an obvious solution is to change the vent direction. If it happens on the front windshield there are always the wipers to help out. Failing all else... it might be necessary to turn off the air conditioning for a while.
monkeyking7872 - 1992 Lincoln Town Car - Preventive Maintenance - 1/27/2012The car heat is not working at all and it's just getting hot a notch away from the top
Bill - 1999 Lincoln Navigator - Preventive Maintenance - 1/18/2012I suspect mutifunction switch on steering column. However, all other functions are normal. I replaced entire driver side headlight assembly about a year ago and it is the side that goes to hi-beam properly.(moisture/condensation was accumulating in assembly) I ...
rcc1 - 1996 Lincoln Continental - Preventive Maintenance - 1/14/2012good alt good battery but not charging only 6 volts makeing it to the battery what could be wrong