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Lincoln brakes repair questions and answers

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  • PAUL SIMPKINS
    PAUL SIMPKINS - 2003 Lincoln Navigator - Brakes - 10/8/2011
    ABS WARNING LIGHT IS ON ALL MTHE TIME
     
    • HouseCallAuto
      10/8/2011 HouseCallAuto
      You have to read the ABS fault code that is stored. The code reader you need to use starts at about $175. No code, no fix.
  • Kathy
    Kathy - 2006 Lincoln Mark LT - Brakes - 9/14/2011
    After comming to a stop and then taking off again It seems to vibrate slightly for a couple of seconds like brakes
    Could brakes be the problem?
     
    0 answer
  • pete
    pete - 1993 Lincoln Town Car - Brakes - 9/13/2011
    Does this brake kit come in various lengths of tubing....part #184250?
     
    • Jimm
      9/13/2011 Jimm
      Need more information; what is the brake kit or part manufacturer? The part # 184250 you have given is a disc brake caliper and not a brake kit. Please reply with additional details.
  • mojo
    mojo - 1990 Lincoln Town Car - Brakes - 9/2/2011
    Transmission shift locked in park brake lights don't light up...checked fuse ok! suspect maybe brake switch not sure wh
    not sure where switch located and degree of difficulty to replace as I am age wise not up to a serious task
     
    • parkinglotfixer
      9/2/2011 parkinglotfixer
      change the break switch on the pedal or make sure the wires to it are not burnt
  • underdog9101
    underdog9101 - 1997 Lincoln Town Car - Brakes - 8/29/2011
    Rear brakes lights are not lighting up when brake petal is being depressed
    Brake switch has been tested good. There is current going to brake switch. all fuses has been tested good. all brake bulbs has been tested good. there is no current on the wires in the trunk that leads to the brake lights encloser
     
    • HouseCallAuto
      8/3/2011 HouseCallAuto
      Check for battery voltage at the high mount stop light. The bulb may be burned out and you did not look there, right? The high mount stop lamp circuit has it's own circuit. If there is voltage there like I think there will be, then your cause is a bad multi-function switch in the steering column. The brake light circuit to both left and right brake lights must pass through the MF switch.
      HouseCallAuto
      8/4/2011 underdog9101
      Hey HouseCallAuto. That sounds like a winner! I will try it out tomorrow and let u know how it went. Thanks soo much friend.
    • underdog9101
      8/29/2011 underdog9101
      Thanks again HouseCallAuto. It was a bad multi-function switch. I changed it out and everything is working fine now
      underdog9101
      8/29/2011 HouseCallAuto
      Glad I could help.
  • pete
    pete - 1993 Lincoln Town Car - Brakes - 8/27/2011
    BY BUYING YOUR BRAKE LINE REPAIR KIT.....WILL THIS FIX MY BRAKE PROBLEMS?
    i KNOW PADS ETC MUST BE REPLACED ALSO...... `
     
    • Jimm
      8/27/2011 Jimm
      Need more information; what brake problems are you having? There are no parts sold direct from this website; AutoMD.com. For replacement parts, try the many on-line auto parts sources, such as; www.RockAuto.com or www.autopartswarehouse.com.
  • sir.drumsalot
    sir.drumsalot - 2002 Lincoln LS - Brakes - 8/8/2011
    Why is my car knocking when I come to a stop?
    My car will make a knocking noise when I cam coming to a stop. It will not make the noise if I stop slow enough, and it will not make the noise at all if it is wet outside like in the rain or snow. Only when it is dry outside. It sounds as though it is coming from ...
     
    • Spoon Sports
      8/8/2011 Spoon Sports
      It really a knock, or a tapping...is it high on the engine or low towards the bottom...all these things are indicators of the real problem.

      Spark knock is caused by gasoline with too low an octane rating. That sounds more like pinging when you accelorate.

      A tapping at the top of the engine could be a problem in the valve train someplace.

      The fact that it goes away at higher RPM could be due to higher oil pressure, and depending on what is the original cause of the sound, other noises could be blocking it out.

      A knocking at the bottom of the engin could indicate a worn bearing on the crankshaft
  • jeffrey
     
    • HouseCallAuto
      7/20/2011 HouseCallAuto
      Nothing needs to be replaced. Take the car in to a Ford / Lincoln dealer service dept and have the Stability Assist Control (SAC) Module reprogrammed / reflashed.

      Ford released TSB 03-2-3 to update the diagnostic procedure related to retrieval of these two codes at the same time.
  • lew
     
    • Jimm
      7/2/2011 Jimm
      Typically, the disc brake pads are examined visually for the wear and remaining friction material. Try to look through the calipers and estimate the pad material thickness - the material is visible between the brake pad plate and the rotor.
      Jimm
      7/4/2011 lew
      thanx but, there are tools used to measure thickness
  • bigwil
    bigwil - 2003 Lincoln Aviator - Brakes - 6/28/2011
    Hearing a noise when driving below 15 mph from rear left wheel
    sounds like I am running over a soda can when I drive under 15mph. I am told it could be the brake pads need changing. Is that sound normal for brake pads?
     
    • Nissan Technical Advisor
      This could be cause by brake rotor shield. The brake rotor shield is designed to keep rocks and other debris from contact with the brake rotor, although noise might be present at all speed but it's most noticeable at low speed. This shield is also designed with an added cooling feature that can direct air through the brake rotor when the vehicle is in motion. If this shield contacts the brake rotor it can cause a squeaking noise. To check for this condition inspect the shield and bend shield back into proper position away from the brake rotor.
  • The Moor
     
    • d.scott
      6/5/2011 d.scott
      MOST LIKELY THE CALIPER PISTON IS FROZEN/STUCK, YOU CAN CHECK YOUR AUTO PARTS DEALER AND CHECK AVAILABILITY OF REBUILD KIT. HOWEVER THE BEST SOLUTION IS TO REPLACE CALIPER.IF A REBUILD KIT IS AVAILABLE,REMOVE CALIPER,APPLY MIN. OF 100PSI OF AIR PRESSURE TO CALIPER ASSEMBLY WHERE FLUID GOES INTO HOUSING [ BE SURE TO WRAP CALIPER IN A HEAVY TOWEL BECAUSE PISTON WILL LITERALLY "POP" OUT OF CYL.],CLEAN CYL. AND PISTON THOROUGHLY USING EMORY CLOTH AND BRAKE CLEANER,INSTALL NEW RUBBER SEALS,INSTALL PISTON,INSTALL CALIPER , BLEED BRAKES-HOPE THIS WAS HELPFUL
    • HouseCallAuto
      6/5/2011 HouseCallAuto
      The pistons in the front calipers will push in with a large C-clamp, the rears require a special tool to turn the pistons while pushing on them. Looks like this >> http://v8sho.com/SHO/rearbrakes.html
    • d.scott
      6/5/2011 d.scott
      most auto parts dealers have tool rentals,once you return tool you get your money back,thus its free-if it is on rear brakes,rent proper tool,screw in piston,and install new brake pads. had i realized you were inquiring about rear disc brakes my diagnosis would have been;you require specific tool to complete this task which can be rented from any auto parts dealer-good luck to you
    • jlofwash
      6/6/2011 jlofwash
      did you remember to remove the master cylinder cap before trying to push the piston back in?
  • Mark
     
    • Bill
      5/13/2011 Bill
      Duplicate question
      Bill
      5/15/2011 Mark
      thank you. job is done everything is fine.
  • Mark
     
    • Bill
      5/13/2011 Bill


      Park the Lincoln Town Car on a flat, level paved or concrete surface. Apply the parking brake. Press the trunk release button.

      Place a wheel chock behind one of the rear wheels. Open the trunk and turn off the air ride button, located on the left side near the trunk hinge on the sidewall.

      Break the lug nuts loose with the breaking bar and socket on the left front tire. Just crack them loose.

      Lift the left front quarter of the Lincoln Town Car with the floor jack, and place a jack stand under the frame just behind the left front tire.

      Remove the lug nuts and wheel from the left front tire.

      Remove the caliper bolts using a ratchet and socket.

      Pry off the caliper with the straight-edged screwdriver and secure it to the coil spring with the bungee cord.

      Remove the pads from the caliper anchor. Pry them out with the screwdriver if you need to, but note how they are placed in the anchor so you can replace them in the exact same manner when it comes time to.


      Remove the caliper anchor bolts. You may have to break them loose with the breaking bar and socket, but switch over to the ratchet once they're broken free to speed things up.


      Remove the rotor. Look on the hub facing of the rotor. There may be some retainer washers that hold the rotor secure to the hub; if so, you'll need to pry them forward with the screwdriver and pull them off with channel locks or pliers. The only purpose of these retainer washers is to hold the rotor secure to the hub while reinstalling the caliper anchor and caliper. Do not worry if you ruin these or if they're not even on the rotor. You don't really need them. If the rotor does not move after you've removed the retaining washers, you may need to shock it from the hub. Do so by striking the rotor fin with a hammer with force to break it free from the rust to the hub. You may have to hit it several times; try hitting from behind more than in front, but be careful not to inflict damage to the fender or injure yourself.


      Sand down the facing and edges of the hub with a light-grade sandpaper. Take some time and clean the hub from rust and corrosion as well as you can.

      Spray the new rotor with brake clean spray very thoroughly. New rotors have an oil-based coating on them to prevent them from rusting due to condensation in the air. This oil coating must be cleaned off or it will create braking problems in the future. Be liberal with the brake clean on both sides of the rotor, and wipe it dry with a shop rag.

      Replace the caliper anchor and pads. Tighten the caliper anchor bolts tightly with the ratchet and switch to the breaking bar to get another half turn out of them.

      Squeeze the piston of the caliper in with the C-clamp all the way. Replace it over the anchor, pads and rotor. Replace and tighten the caliper bolts.

      Replace the tire and lug nuts. Tighten the lug nuts as tight as you can get them with the ratchet and socket, then lower the Town Car and use the adjustable torque wrench set at 100 foot-pounds, but tighten the lug nuts in an alternate pattern. In other words, tighten each lug nut in the opposite position from the one tightened first until all the lug nuts are tightened to 100 foot-pounds.

      Repeat the process for the right side.


      Pump the food pedal when you're done to restore hydraulic pressure to the caliper pistons. Failure to perform this task can result in hazardous and dangerous results. Four or five pumps or until the brake pedal feels normal should suffice. Release the hood latch and trunk latch again if you closed it before. Check and adjust the brake fluid level in the master cylinder, and turn the air ride button back to the on position in the trunk. Remove the wheel chock.

      And least but not last;;;;; Drum roll Please

      Release the parking brake and test-drive.

      Bill
      5/13/2011 Mark
      thank you/.
  • mack
    mack - 2005 Lincoln Aviator - Brakes - 5/10/2011
    Replace rear brakes and resurface rear rotors.
     
    • DrkShdw983
      5/10/2011 DrkShdw983
      this is not a question.. what is your question?
  • honeygirl
    honeygirl - 2002 Lincoln Continental - Brakes - 5/6/2011
    Brake rotors & relines needed too often!!!
    At 84,000 had front & rear brakes relined, rotors machined, both lower ball joints replaced. Now @ 101,000 mi. brakes are pulsating badly again. Should this happen in less than 20,000 mi.? Honey-girl goes easy on her brakes - did I get bad service or is this ...
     
    • mopar
      5/6/2011 mopar
      you can only turn rotors so much...depending on severity....time for a new set of rotors.
    • HouseCallAuto
      5/6/2011 HouseCallAuto
      Well, the next time you have the rotors replaced make sure that they are first-line rotors. That is not a brand, it means that the aftermarket is for the most part flooded with cheap low quality rotors. You can buy rotors for your Lincoln that cost $25 and you can buy rotors that cost $75. $25 rotors typically are labeled made in China, Brazil - like that. First line rotors are typically made in Canada. Bottom line is buy a name brand and do not shop price to pick rotors. Good brands are Bendix, Raybestos, Wagner and keep in mind, each of these brands has a second line rotor that may be much much cheaper with the cost and the quality. Example of first line rotor >> WAGNER Part # BD125532 - Wagner Premium Rotors, - 2 year or 24,000 mile - 37 to 50 bucks each depending on source
      Example of second line rotor with 90 warranty >> CENTRIC Part # 12161049 - 27 to 35 bucks depending on source. Both of these part numbers fit your 2002 Lincoln. Unless you know a difference ahead of time, which do people buy? The cheaper one of course, but there is a huge difference in quality between the two.
      HouseCallAuto
      5/6/2011 HouseCallAuto
      Also goes without saying use high quality brake pads at the same time. Each brand has good - better - best, always buy best or go OE Ford parts.
 
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