Need more information; is the noise from the front or rear of the vehicle? Can you determine if originating from the left or right sides? Several possibilities; loose brake caliper / not secure, loose brake pad inside the caliper, or loose / faulty wheel bearing.

From your explanation it sounds like a leaking caliper piston seal. How is the brake fluid level in reservoir?

thanks for the tip you were right!

Try disconnecting the battery for a minute or two. I don't recall for sure, but it may be possible that the brake light will turn off with this battery reset. If the light still stays on, then try checking the sensor wires on the front wheels. Don't forget it's a good idea to always disconnect the battery before doing any work; especially when performing this type of repair. Also, if the pads have been replaced then they should have the sensor wires connected (especialy if the dealer fitted them) If cheaper pads have been used without the sensor wires then the warn light is going to stay on.

This wire, when new pads are inserted, now returns to a closed circuit because it is not touching the rotor. BUT, if you either 1. wait too long to change pads while the warning light is on, or 2. have had multiple brake jobs, THEN this wire will end up rubbing against the rotor and thus break / wear through. With a broken wire, the brake light will remain on, unless you either solder a new piece of similar gauge wire to replace the missing piece, OR purchase a new sensor assembly.

check fluid in master cylinder ,, make sure emergency pedal isnt partway down

Could have a burned out bulb

Try to service brake master cylinder, could be the secondary piston seal is worn or cracked. Check also brake calipers at the rear and service them as necessary.

Did you have a low pedal before the work was done? Maybe the master cylinder is leaking internally.

Fill the master cylinder with brake fluid before beginning. Jack the car up so that the two rear wheels are about six inches above the ground. Slide under the right rear wheel and look at the back of the brake system for a small bleed valve. A bleed valve is a hollow bolt. When loosened it will allow the brake fluid to flow out and result in the vehicle having no brakes.

Fit a rubber hose over the end of the bleed valve. Make sure it forms a tight seal and make sure the free end is below the level of fresh and clean brake fluid. As the brake fluid in the line pushes out of the system, you will see a bubble come from the end that is under fluid.

Have a helper sit in the driver's seat and follow your instructions. Tell your helper to pump the brakes hard a few times. Open the bleeder valve and tell your helper to press the brake pedal firmly down to the floor and hold it there until you indicate otherwise. Close the bleeder valve and have your helper release the brake pedal.

Repeat this process until you see a small bubble ejected from the tubing under the surface of the brake fluid in the jar. Once you have finished with this wheel, move to the left rear wheel. Before you begin the next wheel brake, refill the master cylinder reservoir. Get set up and repeat the same steps for this tire. The next two wheels you will bleed are the right front wheel and then the left front wheel.

Bleed the wheels in the order of the longest brake line first and then working towards the shortest brake line. Refill the master cylinder reservoir before beginning each new wheel. Once the rear brakes are finished, lower the car and jack up the front of the car. Remember to road test the brakes and make sure they operate well.

sometimes the abs modules go bad, and how do you know the speed sensors are normal, how were they checked? they may look ok that doesn't mean they are not malfunctioning. Get a scanner hooked up that can read ABS codes, even though light is not on there could be stored codes that may lead to the problem.

there is only one answer, if you had to keep adding fluid, you definitely have a leak. do you see any wet surfaces by your wheel wells or on the inside of your tires? if so that needs to be fixed first. that fluid has to be going some where. check for wet surfaces and then repost.

Need to check the wiring for grounded wire; maybe a difficult task that require a professional electrician.

Park your vehicle on a solid level surface. Set the parking brake and chock the rear wheels. Remove the front wheel hub caps if applicable. Using a tire iron, break loose the front wheel lug nuts but do not remove. Using a floor jack, lift up the front of your vehicle. Secure the vehicle with jack stands on both sides for safety before starting any work. The pinch welds or the frame rails are the two best locations. Do not rely on the jack to hold the vehicle up while working. Remove the front wheel lug nuts. Remove the front wheels and set them aside. Inspect the brake caliper for any signs of binding. Look for rust and uneven brake pad wear. Remove the brake caliper mounting bolts (sliding bolts). Remove the brake caliper. Remove the disc pads if they are attached to the caliper. Support the caliper up and away from the working area. Do not allow the caliper to hang by the brake hose. Clean and lubricate the sliding bolts. Attach the disc pads to the new caliper if applicable. Install the new caliper over the brake disc (rotor). Attach the caliper to the mounting bracket with the sliding bolts. Tighten the caliper sliding bolts to the manufacturer’s specifications. Disconnect the brake line from the old caliper. Attach the brake line to the new caliper using new copper washers. Tighten the banjo bolt to the manufacturer's specifications. Repeat for the other side. Bleed the front brakes. Reinstall the front wheels. Snug down the lug nuts. Remove jack stands and lower the vehicle to the ground. Torque the lug nuts to the manufacturer's specifications in a star pattern. Verify that you have a solid brake pedal. Road test the vehicle to check the brake caliper repair is ok.

From the symptoms you have described it seams like you have warped front rotors, They can be checked with a micrometer and or a dial indicator to check for run out and also the thickness of of rotor's. Most likely time for front brake repairs

It is possible that your brake caliper piston is rusted or debris build up on the brake caliper pistons or in the piston bores. Also check if there is pressure on the brake caliper piston (or on its firm lever (condition) if equipped).

If your piston is made of some type of bakelite, and if they are distorted and/or out of round from age/heat/wedge themselves when they are pushed back in.

By the way did you also lubricate your slide pins in you calipers, because if those lose their lubrication they have the possibility to bind and ratchet the calipers down.

In some cases the cause of stuck piston are defective proportioning valve and/or a brake master cylinder.

It is also possible that the cause of your vehicle’s problem is inside your master brake cylinder. When continually applying brakes, the master cylinder heated up and if the rubber seal (primary seal and/or secondary seal) is worn it will expands then the piston on your brake master cylinder stuck up and you have no hydraulic power in your brake system/no pressure to push/operate the brake caliper piston and when it cools down the seal will return to its normal size and allowing you piston in your brake master cylinder to operate.

apply your brakes. this should lock up the caliper again.
loosen the brake bleeder screw and then see if the wheel will turn. if so then your brake hose is shot.