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Hi David, do check the following any could be the possible cause of this. Hope this could be a help diagnosing your trouble.

Worn differential/transmission/transaxle gears or bearings

Loose/worn suspension components

Engine vacuum leaks

Exhaust backfiring

Torque converter clutch lockup & release

The possible causes of your vehicle’s problem are

•Leaking, Worn, or Damaged Intake Manifold Gasket

•Clogged Air Filter

•Dirty or Worn Fuel Injectors

•Incorrect Carburetor Adjustment

101-116 ft-lb (137-157 Nm)

f hard to shift means it will not go into gear. You might need to replace/rebuild the clutch slave cylinder. Also check fluid levels and try bleeding first , thats a cheaper place to start.

If the brake lights are not working, check the brake light fuse. If the fuse is good replace the brake light switch. The brake light circuit is what activates the shift interlock. There could be another cause but check this first.

Have a shop do it. There are tools and ideas there when something is stubborn or has a tight fit. When an axle is stuck and will not come out, there are no rules. You have to look and figure out how to get behind the inner CV housing and pop it outward. Pry bars, points of fulcrum, spacers, large screwdrivers. Whatever works. Also have to be careful not to fracture the aluminum transmission housing in the process.

Yes it can if the inboard cv joint has become disengaged from the transaxle which I have seen happen on the Sephia, not saying that is your cause. Or, if the outboard CV joint has completely broken and the drive axle is spinning in the outer CV housing (rare).

First idea..... First remove the TNS relay (look in relay box under the hood) and see if the lights go out. If they do go out, remove the horn relay and install that one where the TNS relay was and verify that the lights now function normally. If you now install the TNS relay in to where the horn relay was and the horn begins blowing you know you have a bad relay.

2nd idea.....

If it has an added aftermarket alarm that blinks the parking lights when you push the arming button, mechanic has to consider whether the circuit is remaining active because of a stuck relay or bad alarm module. This can be ruled out usually just by unplugging the harness connector from the module under the dash to see if the lights go off.

I have a remote starter. I think the remote might cause the problem.
any idea what I can do?

Look under the dash on driver side for a square box, typically black plastic 4 to 5 inches by several inches and maybe an inch thick and it has wires going to it that do not look factory. They look like they were added afterward. Try disconnecting the harness plug from the processor.