plug in a code reader and read the codes and update this same post with the code numbers. This step is not optional, it is required in order to fix the car. Buy a code reader for $21 at amazon, takes 2 minutes to read the codes.

Go ahead and replace both of the oxygen (O2) sensors at the same time. You will find if you replace just the one - due to age / mileage / wear considerations - the second O2 sensor that was not replaced will soon fail.
The O2 sensors are easily replaced - be sure to remove them when the engine and exhaust is cold - spray the threads liberally with thread lubricant and let soak for a time first. Check the 'How-To-Guides' feature on the AutoMD website for the specific steps to change the O2 sensors.
Check the many different on-line auto parts sources; such as - www.autopartswarehouse.com, www.partsgeek.com and www.rockauto.com for the replacement parts. For example they (RockAuto) list the downstream O2 sensor from around $36.00 and the upstream sensor from around $97.00 for your vehicle.

what code did you get??? if you know the code and you should know which oxygen sensors you need to replace, such as P0130 O2 Sensor Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 1).

__________ http://www.careucar.com___________/

I need to know what P codes you got on the code reader. Once we know the code you received, I will be able to help you further

Replace the ignition switch with a new one. Here are several poossible on-line auto parts sources; www.autopartswarehouse.com, www.1aauto.com, www.rockauto.com. For example, they (RockAuto) list the ignition starter switch from around $32.00 for your vehicle.

The alternator belt is not tight enough. The electrical load placed on the alternator during times of hi current usage (like the heater blower) is enough to expose the looseness of the belt.

Check both switches (fan, power windows) a loose connection will work intermittently and when grounded will draw too much current and blow the fuse.

You have a bad ignition switch. Both of these circuits are on separate fuses but those TWO circuits are supplied bettery voltage directly from the ignition switch IG2 ouput wire. Except for the daytime running lights there are no other circuits connected but these two. The fact that they both go out at the same time and both return to normal function at the same time proves one cause which goes to the only component that has been known to fail, and that is the ignition switch. Probability here is near 100%. Boom.

Replace the Canister Purge Valve. Probability here is almost 100%.

Replace the Canister Closed Valve, Evaporative Canister. The valve goes bad because the canister starts to expel charcoal grains and they get stuck in the valve and cause it to get stuck. Dealer parts.

Check the main relay in the engine compartment relay / fuse panel. After identifying which relay is the main relay by looking at the inside of the cover of the panel, try and see if this relay clicks when you turn the key on. If you are not sure, try replacing it or switching it with another nearby relay if the other relay has the same part number on it. The horn relay or headlight relay may be the same.

try flushing heater core forward and back