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Jeep steering & suspension repair questions and answers

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  • cdf43
    cdf43 - 1987 Jeep Cherokee - Steering & Suspension - 4/10/2012
    Click sound taking off
    From a stop light I hear one click as I take off from the front end
    0 answer
  • Tim
    Tim - 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Steering & Suspension - 4/9/2012
    When I turn my wheel to te left sometimes there is a clunking noise, this doesn't happen when I turn to the right.
    This only happens when I go forward or bacikward but never when I turn the wheel to the right.
    0 answer
  • bexmcktx
    bexmcktx - 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Steering & Suspension - 4/7/2012
    Death shake?
    It starts shaking while driving. Usually when I hit rough patch of road. Continued to shake until I hard brake then corrects itself.
    0 answer
  • geralddoyle
    geralddoyle - 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Steering & Suspension - 4/4/2012
    What is excessive side play in steering when driving?
    just had ball-joints replaced
    • Jason
      4/4/2012 Jason
      Old post.... The ball joints are more of a suspension component. If you have excessive play in the steering, check the steering linkage (tie rod ends).
  • LB
    LB - 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Steering & Suspension - 3/23/2012
    How to remove the old ignition lock cyinder and replace it with a new
    My ignition switch will not turn anymore.
    • yboy82
      3/23/2012 yboy82
      You mean you can't turn your key? Before you replace the ignition lock cylinder try to turn your steering wheel back and forth (it is possible that your steering wheel lock is applying pressure, that's why you can't turn your key. And if possible check out the adjustment and condition of your steering wheel lock.

      7/14/2012 laura
      how do i check the adjustment and steering wheel lock
  • Eric
    Eric - 2000 Jeep Cherokee - Steering & Suspension - 3/22/2012
    Are there any 3in lifts that contain the whole spring kit or do I have to buy those separately.
    The springs are sagging badly and one of the straps that hold them together is broken.Didn't want to just put an add a leaf in.Also what other components do I need,do I need a drop pitman arm with just a 3in. lift? Thanks
  • jmugford
    jmugford - 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Steering & Suspension - 3/21/2012
    Is there a front end block lift kit like you carry for the rear
  • Gus
    Gus - 1999 Jeep Cherokee - Steering & Suspension - 3/19/2012
    The rear of the vehicle sways back and forth At about 40 miles per hour and when siting still you can push down on body
    You can push down on the body with two fingers
    • Spoon Sports
      3/19/2012 Spoon Sports
      Then its a shock absorber problem. Cant think of anything else.

      This job is simple. One bolt comes off the bottom of the shock while 2 come off the top. Just pop the new one in and bolt it back. No tire removal required. HOWEVER... God help you if you break the bolts off the top.

      If you do break them though, you'll have to cut the carpet in the rear deck, then drill out the broken bolts by drilling through the floor. Get yourself some plate steel or some large washers, then some grade 8 3/8" bolts, washers, nuts, etc. run the bolts down through the floor, using the plate steel or heavy duty washers on top side. Then bolt your shocks up tight. I did this 80,000 miles ago and it's done just fine. Doesn't change the position of the shock so it's therefore giving the same support.

  • david
    david - 2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Steering & Suspension - 3/16/2012
    Have a clear fluid looks like it is leaking from the transfer cse on the rear axle . what might it be?
    clear fluid, rear axle transfer case
  • John Bridle
    John Bridle - 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Steering & Suspension - 3/14/2012
    I need to tow the Cherokee behind large RV.
    Is a TOW BAR available to attach to the FRONT chassis?
  • scott brown
    scott brown - 2003 Jeep Liberty - Steering & Suspension - 3/11/2012
    Can a 2004 rear lower control arm work on a 2003 jeep liberty
    Are they interchangeable
    • Jimm
      3/11/2012 Jimm
      Try the many on-line auto parts sources, such as; or to compare the part numbers and applications.
  • Ray
    Ray - 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Steering & Suspension - 3/8/2012
    Front driveshaft cv u joints mostly rear joint burns up
    0 answer
  • Coont
    • Spoon Sports
      3/1/2012 Spoon Sports
      As you have already found out, “Death Wobble” is the horrible front end vibration that starts when one tire (usually the right tire first) hits a groove or bump in the pavement somewhere around 40~50mph. Death Wobble is quite possibly the worst possible downside to having a coil-sprung front suspension on a vehicle with a track bar or panhard bar. Vehicles affected by this design are the Jeep Cherokee XJ, the Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ and WJ, TJ and JK Jeep Wrangler, (and also include trucks like Toyota, Ford, and Dodge Ram, as well as early Ford Broncos). Death Wobble is also extremely difficult to try to diagnose and fix, because it is actually caused by slop in the entire steering system as a whole, not by one component. To diagnose and fix Death Wobble correctly, your mechanic needs to look for “play” everywhere in the steering and front suspension system, searching for anything that could have “play” in it. It’s very time consuming to find a Death Wobble fix, and can be downright dangerous while you are in “testing phase”, trying to exorcise this demon from your Jeep or Truck.

      The place I tell people to start, is with an overall visual inspection. Spend 10 solid minutes under the front end, visually inspecting each one of the steering components for shiny spots on steel, rubber, or polyeurthane, which is typically indicative of suspension components that are moving around when they are not supposed to be. Pay CAREFUL attention to the track bar (also called a Panhard Bar inside and ouside the USA, as well as variant spellings (misspellings?) of trackbar, tracbar, and trak-bar ). The Track Bar is often the culprit in many cases. And, if any of your bolts are even the least bit loose, Death Wobble also can manifest itself and make your life a living hell, so check for looseness everywhere.

      If everything appears to be “normal” on the underside of your Jeep or Truck, and you’ve verified the bolt tightness on both ends of the track bar, the next thing to do is to start with a front end alignment, making sure that caster (frequently misspelled as ” castor “) is set correctly as well as toe-in. If you have been offroading and have bent your tie rod even slightly, that, also, will throw off your alignment. Plus, it’s only $40 or so at your local alignment shop. By the way, DO NOT let the alignment shop talk you into a four-wheel alignment, as this is only useful on vehicles with independent rear suspension in my experience, and since there are no adjustment points in the rear of a live-axle vehicle ANYWAY, you’re merely paying for a service that you won’t get by the time you leave the alignment shop. Furthermore, if you have a lifted vehicle, make sure that the alignment shop you choose knows the variant specifications for lifted vehicles, and that they do NOT set it to the “default/stock” settings. A good quality alignment shop familiar with lifted 4×4 vehicles will know these settings, and a poor quality shop will likely tell you that it doesn’t matter whether it’s lifted or not…and that they use the stock specs. Walk away immediately, or hang up the phone and call the next shop, if they do.

      If you are now *certain* that the front end alignment that it’s set correctly, and that you have not replaced ANY other front end components recently (including tires or wheels) that may have caused the oscillation to begin, I tell people the next most suspect thing is the factory front track bar. Over time, the tie rod end on the upper portion of the Panhard or track bar (some applications like the WJ Grand Cherokee, the Ford Truck and the Dodge Ram have a rubber bushing configuration instead, which also wears out) develops “play” in it due to wear and miles on the vehicle. The same findings often goes for the lower end bushing, which has a rubber or polyurethane isolator bushing in it, and this “slop” will allow the Dreaded Death Wobble oscillation to occur.

      Aftermarket trackbars generally come with urethane bushings that allow a LOT less “play” (with respect to movement / crush) than the factory rubber bushings do. The problem with most aftermarket track bars for the Jeep is that they also come with either a Heim joint, Johnny Joint, or tie rod end on the upper end of the Track Bar, which works fine for a while, but wears out over time, leaving you right back where you started, with a large mess in your shorts, a temporarily deafened right ear (from the wife screaming for dear life, or, quite possibly at YOU, for buying the Jeep to begin with, lol), and an overall high level of frustration with your entire rig in general…which doesn’t often lead into a smooth, stress-free trip.

      Here are some other steering components to check over for looseness or improper movement:

      * Tie Rod Ends (all four, plus the upper track bar end)
      * Upper and Lower Ball Joints
      * Track Bar Mounting Bracket Bolts
      * Steering Box Bol
  • tim fournier
    tim fournier - 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Steering & Suspension - 2/28/2012
    Why are my power steering pumps failing on #4 pump in 2 years
    this pump sluggish works good sometimes verry slow on quick turns
    0 answer
  • emily frake
    emily frake - 1995 Jeep Cherokee - Steering & Suspension - 2/26/2012
    How do you fix the stabilizer bar or sway bar on a 95 jeep Cherokee ?
    Stabilizer bar broke
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