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Jeep brakes repair questions and answers

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284 Questions
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  • Erin
    Erin - 2004 Jeep Liberty - Brakes - 12/19/2011
    Why does my oil light come on when braking?
    My oil light comes on and dings but only when using the brakes.
    • Jimm
      12/19/2011 Jimm
      Usually due to several possibilities; low engine oil level, faulty oil level sensor, or faulty oil level indicator.
    • jlofwash
      12/19/2011 jlofwash
      check level of oil.....when you step on the brakes,the oil which is a liquid rushes toward the front of the pan and if the level is low oil may be leaving the oil pump with very little oil covering the intake...........thats the only thing i can think of.........................jl
    JMWHITTON - 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Brakes - 12/14/2011
    Possible brake problem?
    Jeeps been doing it for last 6 mths now. Whenever I brake and it comes to a halt theres a groaning noise from the front. Also if I take a lil pressure off the brake pedal itll groan foward until I let off. I already checked and the brakes/rotors are fine.
    • Jimm
      12/14/2011 Jimm
      Often, the brake noises are related to the disc brake pads (backing plate) not lubricated. Try to remove the brake pads and apply some disc brake anti-squeal (gel) to the back of the brake pads where they contact the brake caliper piston. Sometimes a small amount of this anti-squeal material with help quiet the brakes during application.
  • blkbrd20
    blkbrd20 - 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Brakes - 12/8/2011
    Left brake light works only under certain conditions
    Headlights on- taillight works but turns off when brakes are applied. Headlights off- brake light comes on when brake is applied
    0 answer
  • Hasenfefer
    Hasenfefer - 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Brakes - 11/23/2011
    How do I remove a lug nut that is half sheared off now and is frozen solid to the stud with nothing to grab on to?
    Was put on by an overzealous mechanic with a powerful impact wrench. Could barely loosen all the others, but this one wouldn't budge. Finally ended up shearing off about half of it when I resorted to a breaker bar. I tried penetrating oil and hammer blows on my ...
    • HouseCallAuto
      11/23/2011 HouseCallAuto
      There are no special tools needed, just patience. Someone is going to have to put some time in on this and this someone probably should be a mechanic equipped with all the toys he may need. High speed grinder, air chisels various sockets. There are no rules here.
  • mo
    mo - 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Brakes - 11/18/2011
    Thump thump thump
    Got tires replaced, now making thump, thump
    • Jimm
      11/18/2011 Jimm
      When the tires were replaced, were they also balanced? Typically, the thump noise is related to tire balancing or tire flat spots. Can you pinpoint the sound to a specific location - or wheel (corner) of the vehicle.? If so, start at this location for the balancing check.
      Also, be sure the wheel is installed and the lug nuts were tightened correctly; cross-pattern and to the proper torque.
  • having trouble
    • HouseCallAuto
      11/18/2011 HouseCallAuto
      It is very likely from what you have said that you need to replace brake pads and rotors in the front at least.
  • Denise
    Denise - 1999 Jeep Cherokee - Brakes - 11/16/2011
    Brakes pulsate when comming to a stop
    • Jimm
      11/16/2011 Jimm
      Several possibilities; warped brake rotors / brake rotors not parallel, faulty / worn wheel bearings. Try the 'How-To-Guides' feature on this website for specific steps to check the wheel bearings and brakes.
    • TechSam
      11/16/2011 TechSam
      Rotors are out of round, need machining or replace with brake pads.
  • marc
    • HouseCallAuto
      11/15/2011 HouseCallAuto
      To rule out a leaking brake booster simply close off carefully the rubber vacuum hose that supplies vacuum to the booster with the engine idling. A normal (not leaking) booster will exhibit no perceptible change in the engine idle when closing off or releasing the hose. Just use a needle nose pliers to do it. If you close the hose off and the engine stumbles and then runs different immediately then you have a vacuum leak from the booster or the plastic check valve at the end of the hose. Try it and update the post.
  • jcodya
    jcodya - 1997 Jeep Wrangler (TJ) - Brakes - 11/9/2011
    Whats the best way to brake light troubleshoot bulbs are good
    no blown fuses and relay on pedal is good light over spare is only one that works
    • Spoon Sports
      11/9/2011 Spoon Sports
      The brake light circuit is still a simple mechanical switch on the brake pedal. Should be trivial to troubleshoot. It might simply need adjustment.

      If that doesnt work...Check the display. Ask a helper to step on the brake pedal while you check the lights from the rear. If no lights appear, check the fuse that connects the brake lights. The owners manual will show the location of the fuse box and which fuse is for the brake lights. Pull out the fuse and look at the wire in the central window. If the wire is broken, replace the fuse. Make sure the new fuse is not blown, and carries the same amperage.

      Take note of lights that are out, if any are working. The problem may be cured by replacing the bulb in a brake light that's out. A burned out bulb has a broken filament and a dark brown spot on one side. Check the owners manual for bulb type.

      Check the circuit if replacement bulbs and fuses do not restore the lights. Find the wiring diagram in the vehicle assembly manual. The circuit for the brake lights runs from the battery to the fuse, to the pedal switch, to a connection plug, to the lights. The circuit has to be checked with a volt tester at all points.

      Check the battery power and the light on your volt tester. Turn the ignition key far enough to activate the electrical systems. Turn on the lights to check for battery power. If the battery has power, ues it to check the volt tester. Put the black lead (the ground) from the volt tester on the negative battery terminal. Briefly touch the red tester light on the positive terminal. The light on the volt tester should flash brightly.

      Test the wiring to the fuse. Clip the ground wire to solid metal near the fuse. Touch the light tip to both sides of the fuse. Both should light the tester. If neither side lights, the wire between the battery and fuse is bad. If only one side lights, the fuse is blown.

      Test the switch and wiring. Touch the light tip of the tester to both terminals on the brake pedal switch without putting any pressure on the pedal. One should carry power and the other should not. When both show power, the switch is stuck and the brake lights are always on. If neither shows power, the wiring between the fuse and the switch is bad. Now check both switch terminals while the pedal is depressed. Both sides should light the tester. If not, the switch is bad.

      Check the connection plug. Unplug the connection and refer to the vehicle manual to identify the brake light wire. Touch the tester light on the brake light wire at the inner socket on the battery side. If the tester lights, the power is flowing to this point. If not, the wire between the plug and the pedal switch is bad.

      Check the socket. Plug in the connector plug and remove the bulb. Touch the contact inside the socket. If the tester lights, the socket is good. The socket and wire running to the plug should be replaced if the tester doesn't light.

      Check the bulb with the ground wire. The bulb must be in its socket. The ground wire running to the socket should be black or brown. Stab the tester through the insulation. If the tester lights, the bulb is good. Replace the bulb if it doesn't light.

      Check the ground wire. Remove some of the insulation around the ground wire. Twist one end of the extra wire around the exposed ground wire. Touch the other end to a solid piece of metal. If the brake light comes on, the ground wire is bad.
  • Pat Patterson
    • JVR
      11/9/2011 JVR
      The fast blinking is telling y that there is a bulb out.
  • ianderson99
    ianderson99 - 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Brakes - 11/4/2011
    I have a grinding feeling in my brake pedal
    I checked my break pads there fine. But when I slow down under 10mph i have a grinding sensation in the pedal. And I can't tell where the grinding is coming from. Any advice would help!?
    • Spoon Sports
      11/4/2011 Spoon Sports
      "And I can't tell where the grinding is coming from." - Based on this statement of yours, its safe to assume its not really coming from the brakes. I mean i cant hear it obviously but ill take your word for it.

      This can be a bit far fetched but this happened to my friend. He spent $1000 to find out what it wasn't. Wasn't CV joint, wasn't axle, wasn't hub bearing. What it was was a simple plastic clip that holds shifter cable away from the drive shaft had popped out of hole in flange on transmission driver sider allowing cable to contact driveshaft on bumps, turns to right, moderate braking. Also check that the other shifter cable isn't wedged between transmission and mount i believe it was. You can tie the cable up with a 5 cent tie lock. Good Luck
  • cmcigas
    cmcigas - 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Brakes - 11/3/2011
    What do I have to replace to stop this noise?
    My jeep makes a constant noise after a rain or snow fall and is the same noise as the beep when something comes up on the console. I fixed it once by replacing the brake light switch and now it's happening again. What do I do?
    0 answer
  • larry s.
    larry s. - 2001 Jeep Wrangler (TJ) - Brakes - 10/29/2011
    My rear brakes grab and make a grumbling sound.I can't find any strange wear on shoe or drum. What could cause this???
    The jeep only has 70,000 miles. we dont drive that much and have only put about 20,000 miles on it in 8 years. the drums themselves dont have any major wear. there is a wear pattern where the shoes make contact, but it isn't a very deep groove.the drums came right ...
    • HouseCallAuto
      10/29/2011 HouseCallAuto
      No history of noisy brakes but I suspect that is exactly what you have going on. If you are doing this job yourself I recc that you replace both drums or have those drums resurfaced and buy the highest quality shoes available from your supplier. Best available is at the dealer parts dept IMHO. Also make sure that the shoes pivot left right without lifting off the anchor pins at the top which is an indicator od a sticking parking brake cable.
    • Bill
      10/29/2011 Bill
      Could be because of age of shoes they are simply just glazed which could make this or one of the hydraulic pistons not working properly or needs bled.
  • strick
    strick - 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Brakes - 10/26/2011
    Abs light is on what does this mean?
    The ABS warning light has come on in my jeep cherokee does this need immediate attention
    • retchief894
      10/26/2011 retchief894
      Have the codes checked. It might be a wheel sensor, dirt or rust will cause the sensor unable to pick up signal from stator assembly on hub.
    • Bill
      10/26/2011 Bill
      It means computer has been sent a trouble code from one of the wheel sensors, You can drive but remember, ANTI -LOCK BRAKING SYSTEM MAY BE DISENGAGED SO TRY NOT TO BRAKE HARD OR YOU MAY GO INTO A SKID. Possible safety Concern.
  • retchief894
    retchief894 - 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Brakes - 10/23/2011
    What would cause front brake chatter on '01 jeep Grand cherokee
    we seem to be replacing rotors every 10-15K miles because they're warped and unturnable, (not a heavy brake foot), we even went as far as to purchase drilled and slotted rotors w/ceramic break pads but still have brake issues after only 10k miles. Any suggestions!!!!
    • HouseCallAuto
      10/22/2011 HouseCallAuto
      Yes, no need for drilled and slotted rotors, just high quality first line rotors and the highest quality pads. Don't just buy pads that say they meet OE specs and pay $20 for them. A good set of pads will usually be about $35 to $45 set. What I mean by first line is the most expensive rotor in any particular brand that are not drilled or slotted. Typically these rotors cost twice what there cheaper versions cost. The difference also is that it seems that every first line rotor I have ever used says MADE IN CANADA on the rotor. Also, make absolutely certain that the rear brakes are in good condition with no obvious uneven wear on the 4 rear brake pads. (Proper adjustment if rear brakes are drum type) Also, make absolutely certain that the caliper bracket slide pins front and rear are not frozen. They should float in and out easily with just finger pressure. Also, make sure that when the rotors are placed on the front hubs that they sit completely flat, that there are no rust buildup spots on the face of the hub. use a wire brush, file or sandpaper if need be. Also, make sure that the center hole diameter of the replacement rotor does not bind at all on the hub and if it does use a file to enlarge the center hole a few thousandths if need be. Perfectly OK to do, not a big deal, I run into that often. Usually first I wire wheel the hub on the vehicle first down to the bare steel and then see that the rotor slides over it without a bind and that the rotor is flush (no rocking motion, not even couple of thousandths). One last thing, Use a torque wrench and tighten the lug nits to 85 to 115 ft lbs.
      10/23/2011 retchief894
      I've put top of line pads and $80 rotors and still only last 15k miles and they are blued and warped. Thats why we went back to the cheaper parts. My daughter has a '99 and are having the same problem. torque spec is 110ftlbs. I'm a certified mechanic and have seen this problem on a few jeeps and the dealer cannot give anaswer that sounds good, even talk to Chry. tech just confusing. I was told that the ate calipers were the problem
      10/23/2011 retchief894
      also replaced slide pins and wheel brgs (due to over heating of brakes,as explained by dealer after repairs) is was ill so wife took it to the dealer!
    • HouseCallAuto
      10/23/2011 HouseCallAuto
      Jack up the car so all wheels are off the ground. Start it up, step on the brake, put it in drive and let up on the brake pedal and confirm that the front brakes have released all the way (I am thinking bad master with residual pressure applying the front brakes some, causing drag that would kill brake life and blue the rotors.