Have the codes checked. It might be a wheel sensor, dirt or rust will cause the sensor unable to pick up signal from stator assembly on hub.

It means computer has been sent a trouble code from one of the wheel sensors, You can drive but remember, ANTI -LOCK BRAKING SYSTEM MAY BE DISENGAGED SO TRY NOT TO BRAKE HARD OR YOU MAY GO INTO A SKID. Possible safety Concern.

Yes, no need for drilled and slotted rotors, just high quality first line rotors and the highest quality pads. Don't just buy pads that say they meet OE specs and pay $20 for them. A good set of pads will usually be about $35 to $45 set. What I mean by first line is the most expensive rotor in any particular brand that are not drilled or slotted. Typically these rotors cost twice what there cheaper versions cost. The difference also is that it seems that every first line rotor I have ever used says MADE IN CANADA on the rotor. Also, make absolutely certain that the rear brakes are in good condition with no obvious uneven wear on the 4 rear brake pads. (Proper adjustment if rear brakes are drum type) Also, make absolutely certain that the caliper bracket slide pins front and rear are not frozen. They should float in and out easily with just finger pressure. Also, make sure that when the rotors are placed on the front hubs that they sit completely flat, that there are no rust buildup spots on the face of the hub. use a wire brush, file or sandpaper if need be. Also, make sure that the center hole diameter of the replacement rotor does not bind at all on the hub and if it does use a file to enlarge the center hole a few thousandths if need be. Perfectly OK to do, not a big deal, I run into that often. Usually first I wire wheel the hub on the vehicle first down to the bare steel and then see that the rotor slides over it without a bind and that the rotor is flush (no rocking motion, not even couple of thousandths). One last thing, Use a torque wrench and tighten the lug nits to 85 to 115 ft lbs.

Jack up the car so all wheels are off the ground. Start it up, step on the brake, put it in drive and let up on the brake pedal and confirm that the front brakes have released all the way (I am thinking bad master with residual pressure applying the front brakes some, causing drag that would kill brake life and blue the rotors.

I'm using drilled and slotted rotors now, got on E-Bay for $90 a set w/ceramic pads.

Several possibilities; warped brake rotor, worn / loose wheel bearing (inner / outer or both) at the brake rotor.

Did you check for voltage, anywhere? Use a digital multimeter. At the rear brakes, white wire with tan tracer is voltage for the brake lites, when brake switch is activated. Black wire is ground.

Below is part of wiring.

http://postimage.org/image/2ytc1i3l0/

"Was wondering if I should check other options." - The only option you should check is another shop. See if you get the same code and get a second opinion. I have heard stories of stealerships charging them an arm and a leg and still have the CEL ON.

Right now i cant tell you if its an expensive fix or not. Try calling shops and see what you can find...thats the only way chief.

Please do not reply by clicking "Reply". reply by clicking "Answer Question" so it will reflect in my INBOX so i can get back to you if something comes up. If you post a comment, it will not appear on my inbox and i wont be able to follow your question.

The ABS brake light on means your car has the obd2 trouble code, you need to check out the code.

Any updates on this?

Try to pull the knee bolster panel, driver side under steering wheel. And you will see the switch on a bracket near the top of the brake pedal. And then check the wires/connection of your switch or replace the switch.

if you have drum brakes in the rear sounds like your brakes are coming apart.. Serious problem . If you can take it apart and have a look.. If you can't do it ... take it to a shop and have it checked.. as soon as possible..

Did you already check out this link http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/rotor-size-1190760/ for your query?

When I look up rotors for your vehicle I see no choice of picking one size over another. I do not even see a listing for a 78mm or 82 mm. What dimension does this refer to because I don;'t see it?

drum brake shoes are suppose to contact slightly the drum. jack up and try to spin the wheel do you hear the shoes hitting the drum? if you dont adjust them until you do.................... other wise the shoes have to travel too far to contact the drum, and the front brakes will contact before the shoes get close to the drum.

No problem: go to: http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/

Need more information; is this a question about how to change the rear brakes? Or is this a question of how much the rear brakes repair may cost, as an estimate? Please reply with the issue you are having in the form of a question, so that further assistance can be provided.

You might check with the auto parts source that you ordered these items from. Try the many on-line auto parts sources, such as; www.RockAuto.com or www.autopartswarehouse.com. There are no auto parts sold directly from the AutoMD website.

I'm doing brakes for more than 30 years. Every time I hear of a fairly new vehicle with a situation where it wears out brakes prematurely there is always something unique about the way the vehicle is used. Your will have to experiment with different brands of pads to see which ones hold up best considering the type of driving you are doing. This stop and go mail delivery is always going to be your enemy to a large degree. You can start throwing other brake parts at it if you think it will change the brake life but I doubt it will.

i have to ask... are the rear brakes drum or disc??