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Jeep brakes repair questions and answers

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  • AutoMD Member
    AutoMD Member - 2007 Jeep Liberty - Brakes - 3/7/2014
    Braking upon acceleration
    Took Liberty on a light hunting trail. Some mud puddles and bumps hit kinda fast. ABS light goes on and off at random. Vehicle randomly decides to brake when pressing the gas from a stop. This is not everytime, 4-5 times/week. Please help, wife is mad!
     
    • bear.1216
      3/7/2014 bear.1216
      You should first scan the ABS for diagnostis codes. Each time the ABS light comes on it stores a code describing the exact system fault. Even if the light is not on it will be stored in the history. Retrieve the codes and repost the code number for more specific help. You may just have mud packed in the under carriage. Give it a good wash. Sounds like your ABS wheel speed sensors may be acting up. Behind each wheel there is a sensor that reads that wheels speed. The sensor reads the speed by interpreting the gaps in the tone ring. If the tone ring gaps are packed with dirt it will affect the readings. This will cause the ABS and traction control to turn on when it should not.
  • AutoMD Member
    AutoMD Member - 2007 Jeep Liberty - Brakes - 3/5/2014
    Braking upon acceleration
    Took Liberty on a light hunting trail. Some mud puddles and bumps hit kinda fast. ABS light goes on and off at random. Vehicle randomly decides to brake when pressing the gas from a stop. This is not everytime, 4-5 times/week. Please help, wife is mad!
     
    0 answer
  • Ron.Domenech
    Ron.Domenech - 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Brakes - 3/5/2014
    What would make my car shudder violently when applying the brakes
    This happening mostly when I drive over 40 and have to stop the vehicle going downhill. I have also had this happen when I hit a pothole. This usually stops when I slow down to about 10 mhp and when I speed up again it will not do this. I was thinking either warped ...
     
    • Welder95
      3/5/2014 Welder95
      could possibly be bad rotors
      Welder95
      3/6/2014 Ron.Domenech
      Thanks for the help, much appreciated !! Ron
    • HouseCallAuto
      3/5/2014 HouseCallAuto
      There is definitely something worn in the front end. First strategy to use is rotate the tires and see what changes. if the steering wheel is shuddering while braking then you also need brakes and rotors. Check steering stabilizer if equipped and check the track bar. long bar that runs from chassis to axle at a slight angle.
      HouseCallAuto
      3/6/2014 Ron.Domenech
      Thanks for the ideas and helping out!! Ron
    • Jimm
      3/5/2014 Jimm
      You are correct - either one of the two possibilities may cause the condition described. To narrow the possibilities; exchange the front wheels - side-for-side - to see if the problem moves. In addition, raise and support the front wheels off the ground (use jack stands) and inspect the front wheels, front brake and suspension for looseness / worn / faulty components - particularly the brakes.

      The parts are readily available from these many on-line sources, www.partsgeek.com, www.rockauto.com, www.discountautoparts.com, www.autopartswarehouse.com, www.jcwhitney.com - to list only a few possibilities. In fact, they (RockAuto) list the front brake rotors from around $18.40 each for your vehicle.
      Jimm
      3/5/2014 Ron.Domenech
      Thanks for the help JImm, very much appreciated !! Ron
  • Oregon Wolf
    Oregon Wolf - 1986 Jeep CJ7 - Brakes - 2/8/2014
    What is the best way to bleed the Master Cylinder?
    I put in a new Master Cylinder and then bled all the lines. The brake pedal still goes almost all the way to the floor when running. I have tried bleeding multiple times and I get good fluid flow out the front but almost zero pressure in the rear. I neither see ...
     
    • Jimm
      2/8/2014 Jimm
      Be sure to first bleed the master cylinder of all residual air before installing. This is called bench bleeding the master cylinder. It is done with the master cylinder mounted on a vise on a workbench - external to the vehicle.
      Reference the 'How-To-Guides' feature on the AutoMD website for the specific steps for this procedure. Then, once all the residual iar is removed from the master cylinder, it can be installed.
      Then in turn, the residual air is bled from the brake system - using the standard brake bleeding method at each wheel - starting with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder.
      Jimm
      2/8/2014 Oregon Wolf
      If this was not done would I be getting the symptoms described above? If true do I now need to remove the MC and "bench bleed"? Is there anyway to bleed the MC after it has been installed?
    • HouseCallAuto
      2/8/2014 HouseCallAuto
      You can bleed it with the master installed. This is what I do: Two people, one in the vehicle and one person at the right rear wheel. make sure master is full. Open bleed screw and tell person to step down to floor with pedal and have him say to you "down and holding". While he is holding, take the tip of your finger and cover the bleed screw to prevent air from entering and tell the person "let up" at which point after he lets up you can remove your fingertip and tell him to step down and hold again, got it?. Now repeat this procedure as many times as needed until you get a squirt stream coming out the bleeder and after you have what appears to be repeated stream squirts and they are remaining the same in appearance as the squirt comes out, close the bleeder and then go to the left rear, then the right front then the left front. make sure that you refill the master as needed so you dont run down too low and suck air into the lines. When you are all done with the last wheel you should have a normal brake pedal. make sure that the rear brakes are adjusted correct or you will have a low pedal. The drum should slightly rub on the shoes as the drums are removed and then put back on. The lines are not clogged and the priop valve is probably fine. Just be patient. each wheel might take 10 or more before fluid begins to flow to the wheel cylinder bleed screw.
  • ajay
    ajay - 2005 Jeep Liberty - Brakes - 1/28/2014
    Honda Civic has some metal rubbing noise, what could be causing this?
    While driving at times this noise comes and at times there is no noise, what could be causing this? the noise is is metal rubbing or something is scraping. make and model is honda civic coupe LX 2006
     
    • HouseCallAuto
      1/28/2014 HouseCallAuto
      Try banging upward with the side of your fist on different parts of the exhaust system starting with the engine pipe and then move rearward. Often a loose / broken spot weld on a heat shield will cause the noise to come and go. Do it of course when the car is cold. If the cause is the exhaust or any part of it you will hear the noise when you bang or a part of the same noise that you hear when driving the car. It will be evident. Another cause could be a front rotor rubbing slightly against the tin splash shield next to the rotor. Sometimes this shield gets distorted by a technician in the process of a brake job when he turns steering by hand at the rotor and pulls on the shield inadvertantly or the shield gets bent inward from a tree branch that goes under the car or anything that can make just the right contact with the inside of the shield. These tin shields normally are only as little as a few millimeters away from the spinning rotor and any distortation can give you a rub noise that will be dependent on the lateral loads generated while making turns etc. Visually check and see that there is not a spot on one or the other where the shield seems to have little or no gap between the rotor and the shield. If you do see that the fix is just to use a suitable tool to pry / bend / alter clearance as needed. Sometimes there will be evidence of a rub mark on the shield.
  • john
    john - 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Brakes - 1/24/2014
    Tail lights and brake lights not working, can't find fuse
    this started last night with complete failure of tail lights while I was driving. I've searched the fuse panel, the power distribution center, Haynes manual, and owner's manual and can find nothing referring to tail lights or brake lights.
     
    • HouseCallAuto
      1/24/2014 HouseCallAuto
      fuse #6 is for parking lights, this fuse in in the interior fuse panel. The brake light fuse is #23 but I cannot at this time see a reason to lose both at the same time.
  • AutoMD Member
    AutoMD Member - 2000 Jeep Wrangler (TJ) - Brakes - 11/24/2013
    Brake lights, rear flashers won't work
    have replaced brake switch and fuses
     
    • HouseCallAuto
      11/24/2013 HouseCallAuto
      Explain rear flashers won't work. Detail please. You mean hazard flashers? The front flashers work but the rears don't? None of the hazard flashers work?
  • AutoMD Member
    AutoMD Member - 2000 Jeep Wrangler (TJ) - Brakes - 11/24/2013
    Brakes and rear flashers won't work
    have replaced brake switch and fuses
     
    0 answer
  • tstrasinger1
    tstrasinger1 - 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Brakes - 10/2/2013
    ABS brakes activate EVERY TIME I use brakes. Can I just disconnect ABS, or need to repair? If repair, what's cost?
    Been goin on 2 mos now. Hate to use brakes! Hvnt gone to repair shop cuz of cost fears.
     
    • frankiedonnn
      10/2/2013 frankiedonnn
      Hi tstras, You could remove the fuse ,but of course in an emergency you won't have the a.b.s.coming to your aid.The cost will depend on what is wrong.It may be just a wheel sensor dirty depending on if the laredo has 4-wheel or 2-wheel a.b.s.If it has wheel sensors they may just need cleaning .The fear only comes from not knowing what the cause is and then fearing the worst.If you have a scan done then it may releave the fear be cause you will then know what action to take.Free scans are done at the local auto shops like Auto Zone and Advance Auto.I would check and make sure that the red E-brake light is not glowing too because that could mean brake fluid is leaking.Just thought I make you aware of it.
    • HouseCallAuto
      10/2/2013 HouseCallAuto
      The cause is a bad wheel speed sensor and it will likely be one of the front sensors. The wheel speed sensors are integral with the hub bearings. Unless you can get it scanned for a fault code you will have no way to know which sensor to replace. Each wheel has it's own fault code number. I have never ever in 36 years been able to restore a bad wheel speed sensor by cleaning it (sorry frankie)
      HouseCallAuto
      10/2/2013 HouseCallAuto
      In the mean time until you decide what to do, remove all fuses associated with the abs system. There is more than one fuse. The light will remain illuminated but the false abs activation will stop
  • jodymeone
    jodymeone - 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Brakes - 9/29/2013
    Why do my brake lights stay on when I shut the engine off?
    I recently installed a brake booster. After installation my brake lights remained on. What did I not connect?
     
    • HouseCallAuto
      9/28/2013 HouseCallAuto
      The brake light switch is out of adjustment or damaged. The switch is located right where you were working under the dash to connect the brake pedal to the booster. Recheck your work. This is easy to correct.
    • John's Auto Repair
      9/29/2013 John's Auto Repair
      You need to attempt to adjust brake light switch if possible. Some original brake switches
      are not adjustable and need to be replaced.
  • jodymeone
    jodymeone - 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Brakes - 9/28/2013
    Brake lights stay on after engine & lights are turned off.
    recently I installed a brake booster. after installation,the brake lights remained on. After futher inspection the brake arm was not touching the brake switch under the console. what must one do to fix this?
     
    • CVO
      9/28/2013 CVO
      Adjustments
      Press and hold brake pedal in applied position.
      Pull switch plunger all the way out to fully extended position.
      Release brake pedal. Then pull pedal lightly rearward. Pedal will set plunger to correct position as pedal pushes plunger into switch body. Switch will make ratcheting sound as it self adjusts.
      CAUTION: Booster damage may occur if the pedal pull exceeds 20 lbs.
  • davidmcdougal0624
    davidmcdougal0624 - 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Brakes - 9/17/2013
    Brakelight comes on,ebrake doesn't work,brake pedal goes to floor
    spongy pedalmilkywhite fluid
     
    0 answer
  • williamhenry1969
    williamhenry1969 - 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Brakes - 8/3/2013
    I lost brakes , replaced pads bled lines still no brakes , replaced booster now I only have pressure when car turned off
    when I crank it no pressure
     
    • Jimm
      8/3/2013 Jimm
      Were the brakes bled in this order; 1) furthest from the master cylinder - bleed first, then next closer wheel position - until all four wheels (brake caliper / wheel cylinder) have no more residual air.
      Check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir after each wheel cylinder / caliper is bled, refill the fluid and make sure the master cylinder chamber does not run low or dry.
      After each wheel is bled properly - check the brake pressure - you should feel the brakes getting a little firmer each time - with each completed step. Try this brake bleeding approach as your first step.

      If there is still a soft brake pedal, then suspect the following; leaking brake component; fitting, line, flexible hose, caliper, wheel cylinder or seal, leaking master cylinder. Check for evidence of brake fluid leakage - monitor the master cylinder fluid level to see if fluid is escaping somewhere in the system. Then, inspect for sign of wet brake fluid at the wheels / caliper / wheel cylinders, along the brake line routing, the flexible brake hoses - all the way to the master cylinder.

      If the hydraulic portion of the brake system is OK after all this, then check the brake booster vacuum hose and connection for cracks / damage and leakage.
  • grace
    grace - 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Brakes - 7/1/2013
    What is wrong with my E brake/rear brake?
    I parked and used my e brake and ever since then my left rear brakes make a horrible grinding noise. I now have to get them replaced. But what or why is it that it did that?
     
    • frankiedonnn
      6/30/2013 frankiedonnn
      A problem was developing with the rear brake system and applying the E-brake showed it up.Do you always use the E-brake or is this new? Some people never use the emergency brake in an automatic because they think that the park position holds the car.
      frankiedonnn
      6/30/2013 grace
      I never use it. I just did it the one time and now my left rear brake is horrible.
    • John's Auto Repair
      6/30/2013 John's Auto Repair
      Probably the left rear parking brake cable or mechanism is siezing up posibly from rust which is keeping the
      brake partially on.
      John's Auto Repair
      6/30/2013 grace
      What is it you suggest be done? Just change pad and rotor
    • John's Auto Repair
      Check for free movement of the left side parking brake cable. the other possibility is a defective caliper.
      Check to see when parking brake is off that the parking brake lever on the caliper is fully retracted.
  • max
     
    • mrslow71
      5/31/2013 mrslow71
      there are metal clips that hold everything snug on the front brakes to stop that rattle ether someone left them out or thay fell ,wore out ether way if you want the rattle to stop have someone look at that for you god bless good luck