There is no way that you can check the condition of rotors visually and be able to rule out warped rotors. Impossible. The rotors on your Liberty are warped. They likely have about .010" or more of runout and that is what causes a brake vibration that is almost always felt in the steering wheel and accompanied by a pulsation in the brakes. Replace the front rotors and the b rake pads at the same time and your vibration will be gone provided you use quality pads and rotors to replace what is there.

shouldn't be too difficult if looking under dash by brake pedal lever you see how installed. If need be take a picture.

You need these

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/.../CE112-dot-05380.html

probably both

If the stutter is in the whole car than it might be just pads

if it's in the pedal than it's definently rotors

prices aren't generally very high, it's probably worth just doing them both

The rotor is probably warped or the wheel balance is incorrect.

Is it sound like scraping? If it does, when does it occurs? Is it during driving or braking?

Has anyone just replaced a rear light bulb? Maybe the wrong bulb? Or you have a bad turn signal switch in the steering column.

Sounds like warped rotors. I would start with new front rotors and pads... if it still shakes I would replace the lower control arm busingings

Brake Shoes
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Cherokee and Wrangler
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
Remove the wheel and brake drum.
Remove the U-clip and washer securing the adjuster cable to the parking brake lever.
Remove the primary and secondary return springs from the anchor pin.
Remove the hold-down springs, retainers and pins.
Install spring clamps on the wheel cylinders to hold the pistons in place.
Remove the adjuster lever, adjuster screw and spring.
Remove the adjuster cable and cable guide.
Remove the brake shoes and parking brake strut.
Disconnect the cable from the parking brake lever and remove the lever.

To install:
Clean the support plate with brake cleaner.
Apply multi-purpose grease to the brake shoe contact surfaces on the backing plate.
Lubricate the adjuster screw threads.
Attach the parking brake lever to the secondary brake shoe. Use a new washer and U-clip.
Remove the wheel cylinder clamps.
Attach the parking brake cable to the lever.
Install the brake shoes on the support plate. Secure the shoes with new hold-down springs, pins and retainers.
Install the parking brake strut and spring.
Install the guide plate and adjuster cable to the anchor pin.
Install the return springs.
Install the adjuster cable guide on the secondary shoe.
Install the adjuster screw, spring and lever. Connect to the adjuster cable.
Adjust the shoes to the drum. Install the drum.
Install the wheel/tire assemblies and lower the vehicle.
Verify a firm brake pedal before moving the vehicle.

And for brake rotor removal, click the link below.
http://www.automd.com/.../

Open hatch and remove the 2 hex screws on the side of the light.

This will loosen the light. It is still held in by the main wire and a push-in plastic tab. Pull the entire light assemble straight back. You have to pull fairly hard to pop the light out of the plastic tab. Don't pull too far out back (because of the main wire).

There are 3 bulbs in each side. Brake light is the top bulb. Turn counter-clockwise to unscrew. You can now replace the bulb.

Try clamping off the rubber brake hydraulic hoses one at a time (carefully using a small needle nose vice-grips and do not crush the line so tight that it damages the hose, just clamp it tight enough to block fluid flow to the wheels one at a time) and see if after each one is blocked off if you achieve the brake pedal back. Update me.

bleed the brakes again using two people one in the drivers seat and one opening and closing the bleeder valves.

The light comes on when the parking brake is applied or the brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoir is low. Worn brake disc pads can cause the fluid to drop.