Does not have a dipstick. Special procedure to check the level by removing a sight plug from the transmission somewhere under there. A repair manual should detail the procedure.

You can visit this link and click the view details under the estimated cost. The estimated cost for one ball joint is around $86.46 (Do-It-Yourself) parts only and if you take it to a service shop around $283.84 parts and labor http://www.automd.com/.../

You can watch a video on how to replace your ball joint just click the watch video beside the parts and tools.

You have to troubleshoot first your check engine light to identify what is the stored trouble code in your vehicle? You can visit AutoZone or nearby auto parts store for free diagnostic. The trouble code will help you identify the fault in your vehicle’s trouble and point you to the right path in fixing your vehicle.

You can also visit this link if you want to have an idea how troubleshoot your check engine light http://www.automd.com/.../

bank one means it is on the side of the exhaust that has the number one cylinder. and sensor 2 means that it is the sensor after the catalytic convertor. As to which one is bank one you will need to get the cylinder numbering for the iszu 3.5l i'm not sure off the top of my head.

If you are blowing the fuse for the clutch you have an issue with the clutch winding (likely) or the wiring to the clutch (less likely). You can inspect the wiring to the clutch fairly easily and the overheating issue is likely related to reduced airflow through the radiator. Be sure there is no debris on the condenser or between the condenser and the radiator. You have a fan clutch that should be fairly stiff to turn the fan when the engine is off and it is hot. The fan shroud must be in place to direct the air through the fan.

Check all the wires for corrosion or damage first and check your fuel sender. Check the fuel gauge fuse, if blown replace it. To test the Fuel Sender Unit, you have to locate the sender unit first (top of the tank connected to the Fuel pump) Connect a ground to the sender unit connector, if the gauge reads to full, you have a bad sender unit.

If the indicator doesn't move, remove the gauge and jump the terminal located to the back of the gauge, if it does move, you have to replace the wire between the gauge and the Fuel Sender, but if it doesn't move, replace the gauge.

That sounds like a do'er. I have looked into fuel tank sending units and very few on-lines have it. Advance has one and a picture (looks like an old time cigarette holder) for $3.99. Could that be the deal...replace that along with an O ring? Wow thanks so much. I'm in Fredericksburg, Va.

under the hood right above the battery big black box.

At 100,000 miles.

There is a greater than 90% probability that you need a fuel level sending unit which is in the tank.

I see in a diagram that the P/S pump has a lock bolt just to the right of the pump if you were looking at the pump from the face of the pulley. Looks like a half-moon shape bracket.

Kevin