all engines need 3 things to run. miss one and it wont run. Spark, fuel, compression. As not very many people have compression testers, take the spark plug out and hook them up to the wires and have someone turn the engine over and check to make sure all the plugs are sparking, if not its either new plugs, new wires, or coil. put all plugs back in and crank it over a little bit and pul;l all plugs out and see if theres fuel on them. Or better yet go to the parts store and get a bottle of ether or starting fluid and take your air filter out and spray it into there while someone cranks it over. This is just a test to make sure the engine will run it wont fix your problem. if it wont run on ether then its not worth fixing unless you have money just layin around. but either way its just a little Isuzu so i dont think it'd be worth it haha.

Hope i helped out somewhat....

Just because it's cranking that does'nt mean the battery is in top charge condition.A low battery that still cranks can cause a no start condition.Get a load test done on the battery if there is any doubt.The I.A.C.motor and coil and other components need proper current -flow.

The fuel pump output should be around 39 PSI minimum for a functional pump.

Need more information - is there a question regarding the alternator belt replacement? Is there a question regarding how to perform this task? Please post a reply and phrase the issue you are having in the form of a question for further assistance.
Like to help, but need more information about your concern with the alternator belt.

How do you know the bolt you found is from the harmonic balancer? Did you look at the center of the balancer with a mirror and see that there is no bolt in there? But to answer your question, I guess if the bolt did walk out, that might allow the balancer to walk out also and that could eject the belt. The bolt would have had to have been left loose by the mechanic that did the timing belt maybe?

1. Did the fuel gauge was working before the fuel pump replacement ? Then, the fuel sender float unit may not functioning.

2. Or the fuel gauge wasn't working before the fuel pump replacement, then the fuel gauge is the culprit.

Replacing a fuel pump isn't going to fix a non-working gauge. As CVO mentioned, you're dealing with a problem with the sending unit which is attached to the fuel pump. The thing that has a floater. Prior to replacing, ensure that you check wiring and health of the unit using a multimeter. Then check wiring to gauge. When all possibilities are exhausted, you're left with a bad gauge unit(cluster)

Árbol de levas

Mayoría de los motores cubierta por esta guía utiliza elevadores entre el tren de válvula y árbol de levas. En todos los motores equipados con elevadores, debe instalarse una nueva serie completa de elevadores cada vez que se sustituye el árbol de levas. Desgaste del árbol de levas y elevadores puede ocurrir si no son sustituidos como un conjunto.

Ver esto
http://www.autozone.com/.../...rGuideContent.jsp

A vacuum leak can be diagnosed by several methods; visual inspection - chack all the air intake, vacuum hoses and connections - look for damage and cracks. Second step, connect a vacuum guage to any engine manifold ported vacuum source - maybe the power brake hose connection, as example. Read the engine vacuum at idle - should be steady guage reading around 17 - 20 inches.
Third step, also done at idle speed - to squirt / spray aerosol carb cleaner or mass air flow cleaner around the vacuum hoses and intake manifold gasket sealing surfaces - with the vacuum guage attached, see if the vacuum changes with the spray application.

Spray carburetor spray at the intake gaskets and see if the problem is gone. If it clears up a lot while spraying 2+2 carb cleaner at the intake manifold gasket flanges then the gaskets have to be replaced.

Hey Jewels, this sounds like a clogged catalytic converter or muffler, If you bring it to a muffler shop they should check it for you at little or no cost. FYI the cost of a catalytic converter can be expensive research the part you can find them cheaper at online parts stores heres an example.

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/.../EAST50130.html

If your living in california though you have to make sure it is a CA EPA rated. Most are 49 state legal meaning every where BUT CA.

If you don't have antyhing useful to say. Shut Up

hey Jewels, do you have any way of posting the engines compression readings, with the age of the vehicle and it being a Nissan Pickup, I would suspect the engine is a bit worn out.

ok either your running out of gas or just needs some oil or just needs a buster of some gas cleaners ok and then if this doesn't work the oil filter and the transmission may be going unless don't have some transmission liquid ok love the carmen's auto repairs...call at the number labeled 610 262 7973

Do a fuel pressure test. If it is between 30 to 40 psi. min. it is ok. If not, replace fuel pump. Another possibility is a plugged cat/con or muffler. To check it, loosen the flange at the maifold and test drive it. If that is the problem, retighten flange and loosen flange behind the cat. If problem returns, replace cat, if not, replace muffler

i was having trouble starting the car in the mornings,so i changed the battery,i changed the self ,then fly wheel,now the gears not changing

I got same problem also. Good thing I found this site

Check the vehicle for fault codes to see if there are any sensors were involved to the malfunction of the engine.

1.Local auto parts stores such as Autozone ( not in California) or Advance Auto parts will scan and retrieve any diagnostic trouble codes ( dtc ) stored in the powertrain control module for free of charge..

2. Amazon.com has the code reader for less than $20.00 dollars.

3.Re-post the dtc's in here " answer question " for further assistance.

Note: we need the dtc's to identify the sensor, there are a dozen different sensors to operate the car.

Visit this site and see all the different sensors.

http://www.freeautomechanic.com/car-engine-sensors.html

Navigate to this site and see the code reader
http://www.amazon.com/.../...imh_gw_p263_d1_i1