wagon? i dont think there is a wagon for the civic, or is it a hatchback?

Its a short ratio by the way

4.25 final drive ratio, 1st and 2nd gear ratios of 3.25 and 1.9 respectively

Have you replaced your speed sensor? If yes then it can be a faulty speedometer cluster, if you haven't then its probably the sensor itself

the drive four light keeps flashing when the car gets warm. and it will stop once we turn the car off and then turn it back on but then it will maintain its flashing. can u please help

Chances are you have a problem with the VSS, it went haywire and needs replacement.

What car do you own, i MIGHT have a step by step guide on how to do it. (replace it)

did you check your fuse first?

The possible cause/s of your vehicle’s trouble is your differential fluid is low or it is contaminated. Besides your fluid level and its condition you should inspect your differential bearing it may be damaged or worn, replace if necessary.

Identify the side making the noise. It sounds like a bad front wheel bearing.

You have provided no details about your problem. Is there a symptom that you have? What exactly are we trying to diagnose?

1. Unplug the key interlock solenoid (will require dis-assembly near the ignition key trim to access the plug) of the and see if the key can be turned, if it can test the key interlock solenoid circuit.

2. Wiggle the steering wheel and see if the key will turn, if not then the key and tumbler has a mechanical problem and will need to be repaired by a lock smith or replaced. If it is replaced and there are new keys the immobilizer system will need to programmed.

If the shift lever is locked in park position with the key on & the brakes applied, the brake/shift interlock is malfunctioning. Begin by inspecting stop lamp operation.

Try this first

I have a 1998 S70 and the cruise quit working. It was under warranty, so i just took it
to the dealer. They replaced the brake light switch on the cruise.
Apparantly, that is the "signal" that cruise needs to disengage when you hit
the brake. The mechanic said that the switch was just too sensitive, and
that after hitting the brake, it stayed "on" which tells the cruise system
that you still have your foot on the brake, even though you don't. He said
that instead of replacing the switch you could just pull up on the brake
pedal with your foot, and that would reset the switch, mine back then was under
warranty, so i had it replaced

Your torque converter is about to get busted, replace it soon

Motor has been shifted? you mean changed? just get the axle from the original car the engine came from. If its a B18C5 engine then get the axle from an Integra, H22 Prelude and so on and so forth

Sounds like an internal problem with the rebuild again. How long ago did you have the engine rebuilt and was it dfine at first? Did anything happen right before this that might have caused the problem like spinning the tires or driving it in low gear all the time? It sounds like internal transmission problem.

If it's an auto trans, you're having transmission fluid leaks internally.

Well, in theory, if the right front tire were severely overinflated for several months or longer, that would do it. But, the over-inflation would have to be a lot, like instead of 35 psi, if it were like 60 or higher. Besides that, I have no additional ideas other than to say the obvious - a bad tire. Alignment does not wear the center only. One caveat though, if the tires are run-flats - they are terrible tires to have and the wear-out would not surprise me at all.

Concur with HCA, there's not many causes for severe wear in the center of the tire tread. Overinflation of 10PSI or more, a faulty tire, or excessive wheelspin are about it. Does the vehicle have a teenaged driver?

There is a chance that the automatic transmission linkage is kinked.

Vibration where? Engine bay?