sounds like some kinda crimping in the hoses or the pump may have some blockage in the lines..

If you have checked/tried the following:
- Replaced cap
- Checked pump and hoses no visible leaking with engine running and turning wheels.
- Checked hoses to rack for leaking.
- Is the pump bad?

There is a screen in the supply tube at the bottom of the fluid reservoir.This screen becomes restricted and the fluid returning is greater than the fluid leaving.This causes the overflow you are having.

Try to clean by removing the reservoir and back-flushing in a parts washer. Be careful to get all the solvent out of the reservoir after cleaning.

Keep me posted, i too wanna get to the bottom of this, i hope someone else chimes in because frankly im about to get stumped if that didnt work

Replace the power steering pump inlet side O-ring.

Try the AutomD Negotiator ( http://www.automd.com/negotiator/) feature on this site it is free. They will call local shops for the repair that you needed and send the multiple quotes from your local shops. So you can compare job prices within your area.

To remove your spindle nut you have to locate the den in the spindle nut (which means it is staked). Place the punch on the inside of the dent in your spindle nut and hammer the punch to po the dent out of the spindle nut.

Usually main bearings breate a knocking sound, are you sure its t he main bearings and not just your pulleys or any of the parts rotating in your engine.

Now since im not there to hear the sound, i'll take your word for it. Now this is a PITA job. you need to drop the tranny, timing belt, oil pump, etc.. You'd save yourself a thousand headaches by pulling the motor and doing an entire rebuild, IMO.

What do you mean?

Repair list of what?

Just make it nice and snug and your all set. No need to treat this like an overhaul

Source: I also have COPs and i just tighten them when i change plugs

Thats too much for me asuming your car is not lowered. Look at your tire wear, if they look acceptable to you then the readings should be acceptable as well. Rotate them every 6 months.

If you want 0 camber, buy camber plates.

When it comes to daily driving, camber only focuses on tire wear, in racing, handling comes to play. Either way, camber isint a big deal as long as your tires do not wear out prematurely

Bushings are usually replaced not fixed. Which bushing?

On a 2010 Odyssey?

Bring it to the dealership, i believe your van is still covered by warranty.

If for some reason its not, bring it to an alignment shop, you will get your answer faster because now, all i can do is guess, infact guessing at this point is futile because

YOU HAVE A 2 YEAR OLD CAR, all my theories of parts getting busted has gone down the drain because all of your parts are 2 years old.

Unless you were able to hit 200,000 miles in 2 years then i might have some theories about it.

Rotate the tires front to rear Albert and I bet you the pull goes away. As long as you are saying that this vehicle did not smack a curb or something when this condition began, then I'll bet ya that is all you have is a bad tire on the front, but careful, the tire may look just fine so don't skip rotating them because of that. Update this post after the jump

Depends really, is your car lowered? If its stock height then you dont neeed to worry about it, if it lowered, then you need to buy camber blocks, no need to buy something expensive, some retails and @100 pair.

If you want something better, go with Beaks

In my ES, its semi lowered with a .2 variance in camber, (no camber kit) but the tilt is not too bad to affect the way my 18s wear down so i just rotate my tires every 6 months

Source: Eat Sleep Honda

I will start by inspecting all bushings.

Control arm bushing
Sway bar bushings
Ball joint boots
Tie rod end boots
CV joints boots

The control arm bushings is the most common problem.

This set fits the 2001-2002 Honda Civic, All Models Excluding Si, and 2003-2005 Honda Civic Hybrid Only.