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Honda engine repair questions and answers

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  • Nathaniel Randall
    Nathaniel Randall - 1990 Honda Accord - Engine - 10/13/2014
    The car iodine to long to law for about 20 minutes
    52 pebble Dr Brooklyn md 21225
     
  • Shane94
    Shane94 - 1996 Honda Accord - Engine - 10/9/2014
    What is wrong with my car?
    my acceleration is very slow, the engine will reach upwards to about 3,000rpm but I will barely even move, also whenever I drive I hear the engine sound like its deciding on whether or not it wants to go anywhere while it does this the tacometer will go from 1 to 2 ...
     
    • vikingtowingandrecovery
      sounds to me like the transmission is bad and you have a short if your tach is bouncing
    • cavman85
      10/9/2014 cavman85
      Is you check engine light on? Lets start with that to see if anything has tripped the computer. You can have it read for free at you local auto parts store Advance Auto / Autozone
  • christian
    christian - 2005 Honda Civic - Engine - 10/9/2014
    Replaced AC parts still not cold
    AC stopped blowing cold air, I was told it was a problem with the compressor. Replaced the compressor, expansion valve, and drier. The AC still doesn't blow cold air. What else could it be?
     
    • cavman85
      10/9/2014 cavman85
      Im assuming its filled with freon and the compressor is coming on when you press the a/c button to on?
  • christian
    christian - 2005 Honda Civic - Engine - 10/8/2014
    Replaced AC parts still not cold
    AC stopped blowing cold air, I was told it was a problem with the compressor. Replaced the compressor, expansion valve, and drier. The AC still doesn't blow cold air. What else could it be?
     
    0 answer
  • Sampin
    Sampin - 1998 Honda Civic - Engine - 10/7/2014
    Car Stalling in rain, slow to start and with frequent stops, it dies
    I've had my car for a while now and it's had intermittent problems, and it seems to have evolved. It is a used car. Off the bat, it started growling. It is very, very loud. The engine light is always on. It stalls frequently when it rains--to a point where we ...
     
    0 answer
  • mel
    mel - 1995 Honda Civic - Engine - 10/7/2014
    I recently replace my catalytic converter it was gunked up with debris causing the engine to overheat. Do I need to
    replace the manifold gasket also? Is there anything else I need to replace?
     
    0 answer
  • Shane94
    Shane94 - 1996 Honda Accord - Engine - 10/6/2014
    What is wrong with my car?
    my acceleration is very slow, the engine will reach upwards to about 3,000rpm but I will barely even move, also whenever I drive I hear the engine sound like its deciding on whether or not it wants to go anywhere while it does this the tacometer will go from 1 to 2 ...
     
    0 answer
  • rebecca
    rebecca - 2004 Honda Accord - Engine - 10/6/2014
    Electrical? I heard what sounded like a thump on the roof of my car....then the radio started static and crackling...???
    What is this? It has happened twice now?
     
    0 answer
  • kaine.mangold
    kaine.mangold - 1998 Honda Accord - Engine - 10/6/2014
    What's wrong with my car? I'm perplexed
    My car shakes upon start up and for a little bit after. Then runs like normal. The check engine light turns on and off and sometimes even flashes but it's not consistent. What could be wrong? Also the radiator I've noticed goes through coolant like crazy. There's ...
     
    • Jimm
      10/5/2014 Jimm
      The check engine light is located on the dash and stays on if the computerized engine control system detects an engine performance or emissions problem.

      First step - have the stored fault codes or check engine light scanned - for free - at any local auto parts store; Advance Auto, Auto Zone, NAPA, etc. Then, post a reply as 'add answer' with the specific code for more assistance. There may be a fault code stored in the OBD memory which may not be displayed as a check engine light. There are literally hundreds of possible fault codes and therefore numerous reasons for the MIL condition.

      This step is important - retrieving the stored fault code and relaying this detail - will provide good information to assist in diagnosing and repairing the issue you are having.
    • rprieto
      10/6/2014 rprieto
      Symptoms suggest possible blown head gasket.
  • Cory
    Cory - 2002 Honda Accord - Engine - 10/2/2014
    Louder than normal Ticking sound while idling?
    Recently I have noticed a louder than normal ticking sound while idling. Definitely notice it more while sitting in the car up against the wall. Haven't noticed any power loss, leaks, and no check engine light. What wears out that causes that normal Honda tick to ...
     
    0 answer
  • Courtney
    Courtney - 2002 Honda Accord - Engine - 9/26/2014
    Why will my car not start?
    When I turned the key the engine turned over but the car wouldn't start. All of the lights and radio came on when doing this. We tried to jump start it but that did not work
     
  • Courtney
    Courtney - 2002 Honda Accord - Engine - 9/26/2014
    Why will my car not start?
    I tried to crank my car and the engine will turn over but the car will not start. All of the lights and radio will come on. We tried jump starting it but that did not work.
     
    • Jimm
      9/26/2014 Jimm
      An engine that will turn over or crank, but does not start, has a defect in one of three basic areas: #1 compression #2 ignition #3 air/fuel. All three can be quickly checked to identify which vehicle system is defective.

      #1 No or low compression can result in an engine that cranks over, but not start. Compressing the air / fuel mixture is required to get it hot enough to reliably burn once the spark plug fires. A cylinder with low compression will not raise the air/fuel temperature enough to start the combustion process. Low cranking compression can be caused by slow starter motor speed, improper cylinder sealing, a broken timing chain/belt, or a defect in camshaft timing. Most of these problems can be detected by listening to how the engine sounds as it is cranking over. Identifying problems just by listening takes some experience, especially as different engines sound different when they are cranking.

      Measuring intake manifold vacuum, while cranking the engine, is a very easy test that can eliminate compression as the cause for a no start. Gasoline engines that have at least three inches (3") of manifold vacuum when the engine is at normal cranking speed should have enough compression to start. Slow cranking speeds will cause low compression as the air has more time to leak past the piston ring end gaps. To maintain normal cranking speed the battery should have at least 10 volts while the starter motor is turning. The throttle should be closed (foot off the gas pedal) during a cranking vacuum test. Because of idle air bypass valves some vehicles will have very little cranking vacuum. Low cranking vacuum does not guarantee that there is a compression problem. Cranking vacuum is a quick test only and if you have over 3" of vacuum there is enough compression to run the engine. If you have low cranking vacuum, place your hand over the main air intake tube that runs between the air filter and the throttle body. If you feel good strong suction continue with the spark and air/fuel testing.

      Minor defects in the compression of an engine will allow the engine to start, but cause the engine to run poorly. Weak compression in one or two of the cylinders may cause the engine misfire and to run rough. An engine with low or weak compression in all the cylinders may run smoothly, but it will have low power. Learning to diagnose engine compression will improve your skills at figuring out why an engine is not running properly.

      Once you are good at doing this you will be able to quickly test for defective cranking vacuum and R.P.M.

      #2 A defective ignition system will cause an engine to crank over but not start. This could be due to no spark getting to the spark plug, a spark that is too weak to sufficiently burn the compressed air/fuel, or a spark that occurs at the wrong time.

      An easy way to check for no spark, or weak spark, is with a spark tester that forces the spark to jump a large gap. This device may look like a spark plug but it is designed to demand a firing voltage of at least 20 kV. Another style has an adjustable air gap. Be sure to open this air gap far enough to force the ignition coil to put out over 20 kV. This is important because a weak ignition coil can easily generate enough voltage to jump a normal spark plug gap outside of the cylinder at atmospheric pressure. Inside the cylinder, where you can not see, the spark must jump the gap under compression pressure and this requires more voltage. A spark plug that fires outside of the cylinder may fail to spark when it is installed in the cylinder head.

      Install the spark tester on a plug wire that has just been disconnected from one of the spark plugs. Be sure to clip the other end of the tester to the cylinder head to provide a ground for the spark. Using a spark tester is simple and easy, but it only tells you if spark is available to one cylinder at a time. If you have a good spark at your spark test plug, it might be the only cylinder that is getting a good spark. So when you are using your spark tester, pay attention to all the clues.

      If the engine cranks over at normal cranking speed, but engine is not trying to start (no sputtering or popping or backfiring) you can assume that whatever you find at one cylinder will probably be the same for all cylinders. So, if there is no spark at one cylinder, the ignition system is probably why the engine will not start. If some cylinders have spark, and others do not, the engine will at least try to run. A spark tester will only tell you if a spark is found at the cylinder you have hooked the tester to. If the engine tries to start during cranking, maybe it sputters or pops or backfires, you can bet that at least some of the spark plugs are firing. If this is the case there are better ways to discover what the problem is.
      Improper ignition timing, or incorrect firing order, will cause a no-start even though the spark plugs are
    • Jimm
      9/26/2014 Jimm
      Carefully check that each plug wire goes to the proper spark plug, and is in the correct coil or distributor cap tower. If the distributor has just been re-installed, or the timing chain or belt was just replaced, and the engine does not start, you can suspect the camshaft or ignition timing is incorrect. The first time this happens to you I suggest asking an experienced technician to help you out as this can get very confusing.

      One other problem is the spark tester may spark perfectly but the spark plug still does not fire. This is most commonly caused by too much fuel in the cylinders causing the spark plugs to short out or get fouled. If you remove the spark plug and see that it is wet (or covered in oil), find and fix that problem. If the engine still does not start after fixing that problem, replace all the spark plugs. In my experience, fouled spark plugs should be replaced as cleaning spark plugs is unreliable and not cost effective.

      In the lab you will have the opportunity to practice using the spark tester on a variety of engines and learn to verify the operation of both the primary and secondary ignition system

      #3 A defect in the air/fuel ratio can cause the engine to not start. The engine can get no fuel, or not enough fuel, or it can get way too much fuel.

      A fuel injector is a simple solenoid including a coil of wire designed to build a magnetic field when turned ON. This magnetic field pulls open a spring loaded valve or pintle inside the fuel injector. When the pintle is open, fuel will spray into the intake manifold. When the voltage available to the injector coil is removed (turned OFF) the fuel stops flowing. As voltage available to the coil inside the fuel injectors gets lower, it takes longer for the magnetic field to get strong enough to open the pintle. For many fuel injection systems, cranking voltage must be at least 10 volts or the electric coil inside the injector will take too long to open the pintle and the injectors will not provide enough fuel. It is very difficult for an engine to start when the fuel mixture is too lean. Always make sure the cranking voltage is over 10 volts before blaming the fuel system.

      A lean air/fuel ratio is caused by not enough fuel, or too much air. Not enough fuel may be caused by a vehicle that is out of gas, a fuel pump that does not turn on, low fuel pressure, or a defect in the fuel injection system. Too much air can be caused by a leak in the air induction or intake system between the airflow sensor and the cylinders. Any of these problems may cause an air/fuel ratio that is too lean.

      A quick test to see if a lean fuel mixture is causing the engine to not start, is to add propane while cranking. If the engine now tries to start the problem is no fuel, or not enough fuel. Check to see if the fuel pump is turning on. The easiest way to do this is to listen at the fuel filler neck when you first crank the engine. A funnel inserted into the fuel filler neck can make it very easy to hear if the fuel pump is running. Once you get good with a lab scope it is not hard to use a low amp probe to get a fuel pump pattern. This will show if the pump is running, and if it is pumping fuel or just air. If the fuel pump is running then the injectors may not be turning on and off, the fuel pressure could be too low, or the vehicle could be out of gas. Adding a gallon of gas is pretty easy to do. Testing the injectors can be done in a number of ways. One is to listen for clicking at the injectors using a stethoscope. Using a lab scope can give you much more information on the injectors. Fuel pressure and volume can also be checked.

      A rich air/fuel mixture is caused by too much fuel, or not enough air. A common reason for not enough air entering the cylinders is a plugged air filter and checking that is easy. If the air filter looks dirty try starting it with the filter removed. Quick tests for too much fuel are a little more difficult. First you should use a spark tester. If the ignition system is working, remove one or two spark plugs and see if they are covered in gasoline. High fuel pressure, or leaking fuel injectors can cause the spark plugs to become fuel fouled. This is called flooding and will keep the engine from starting. You can find both high fuel pressure and leaking injectors by performing a fuel pressure test.

      This is a simplified version of how to discover if a no-start is caused by an improper air/fuel ratio. There are many more tests to diagnose the air/fuel ratio.

      Minor defects in the air/fuel ratio will allow the engine to start, but not perform properly. A defect in the air/fuel ratio can cause driveability problems such as an engine that runs rough, or has low power. Learning to diagnose the air/fuel ratio will help you to figure out why an engine is not running properly.
  • FavCar11
    FavCar11 - 2013 Honda Civic - Engine - 9/25/2014
    My 2013 Honda civic stop working, Abs system pops up and brake system pop up .
    I was cleaning the inside interior in my car while listening too music and 10 mins go by and I noticed the music stopped playing I turn on the car and the egnition won't turn on the lights are on in the dashboard but no engine sound. A few windows rolled up by ...
     
  • FavCar11
    FavCar11 - 2013 Honda Civic - Engine - 9/25/2014
    My 2013 Honda civic stop working, Abs system pops up and brake system pop up .
    I was cleaning the inside interior in my car while listening too music and 10 mins go by and I noticed the music stopped playing I turn on the car and the egnition won't turn on the lights are on in the dashboard but no engine sound. A few windows rolled up by ...
     
  • FavCar11
    FavCar11 - 2013 Honda Civic - Engine - 9/25/2014
    My 2013 Honda civic stop working, Abs system pops up and brake system pop up .
    I was cleaning the inside interior in my car while listening too music and 10 mins go by and I noticed the music stopped playing I turn on the car and the egnition won't turn on the lights are on in the dashboard but no engine sound. A few windows rolled up by ...