Auto Answers » Engine » Honda » Page 10

Honda engine repair questions and answers

Post your Honda engine question or share what you know by answering questions

3331 Questions
Sort by:
  • DerekC
    DerekC - 2001 Honda Odyssey - Engine - 4/29/2014
    Can a bad transmission or torque converter lock up the engine?
    While driving, D4 suddenly started flashing, and TCS and CEL came on. I immediately looked for a place to pull over. Before I could pull over, the engine also stopped (and I was watching the dashboard closely - no high RPM, temp ok, power felt ok.) Now, I can't even ...
     
    • alex
      4/14/2014 alex
      it could the torque converter is direct to the trans pump
    • HouseCallAuto
      4/14/2014 HouseCallAuto
      Drain the oil into a cleaned out oil drain pan and see if any metal comes out after all the draining. Scrounge around with your fingers in the drained oil and feel for debris. If the engine is locked up and you can see that the timing belt did not break, you also have to look closely at the belt and see the condition because if the belt has jumped or really has sheared teeth that you cannot see right now, there will likely be some telltale signs. You might want to remove the crank pully and lower timing belt cover so you can see if any teeth ripped away which if that did happen, the Odyssey is an interference engine, but I never saw a locked up engine from it. If the engine were locked up because of a sheared timing belt, then that would mean that the valves are making direct contact with the tops of the pistons and then that would also mean you could remove the timing belt and see if the cam gears can be turned with a 17mm wrench to rule in or rule out valve to piston contact. This is a tough one to sort through what the most strategic first move should be. My gut says it is not the tranny causing this.
      HouseCallAuto
      4/14/2014 DerekC
      Ok. I will drain oil to see if there is any metal debris.
      To remove the timing belt, I need to remove the crank pulley. To remove crank pulley, stop the engine from turning but hey it is already locked up by something. If I brutal turn the breaker bar, it might damage further whatever locking it up (tranny casing?) Maybe I can just cut the belt off.
      I will report back tomorrow.
    • HouseCallAuto
      4/14/2014 HouseCallAuto
      If the lower end (crankshaft bearings and / or connecting rod broken) of the engine siezed (for whatever reason), then there will be metal debris that will come out in the oil. Yes I agree you could just cut the belt and save a lot of disassembly time on an engine that might be junk anyway. After you cut the belt, see if the crank can turn. I'm betting that it still will not turn. And if there is no metal debris in the oil then that would suggest that maybe the tranny is holding the engine. But one detail I want to remind you of also, after you cut the belt, if you are able to get the crank pulley to move at all, do not move it very far or just far enough to convince yourself that the engine is not siezed because the cams are not turning with the belt. I don't want you to accidentally bend valves that are not bent yet.... Only move the crank pulley an inch or three max.

      Also one more after thought. Remove all the spark plugs before you do anything I have said here to rule out cylinders that have been hydrolocked by raw fuel or coolant. A liquid cannot be compressed and on the GM Buick V6 3.8 liter, there is a comndition that can cause a few cylinders to fill with coolant and it locks the engine solid, until you remove all the spark plugs in which case the engine can now turn and all the coolant will purge out. Not sayin that is what you have goin on but it would be a kick in the teeth if this turned out to be the cause and you did not rule it out. Of course the thing we are trying to leave for last is the tranny removal. Between the motor or tranny being bad of course you want a bad tranny between the two.
      HouseCallAuto
      4/14/2014 DerekC
      You are definitely an expert. Thank you for all the hints. I will remove spark plugs and see.
      For this vehicle, a rebuilt tranny is over $1400 + core. No one is selling used. Used engine is less than $500 and they usually good.
      HouseCallAuto
      4/15/2014 HouseCallAuto
      I'd like to know what you find out.
      HouseCallAuto
      4/15/2014 DerekC
      Any chance a bolt that mount the TC to the flexplate came loose and locked tight inside? Or the flexplate is broken in pieces? I will remove the TC cover to see tomorrow. This is a 2nd transmission so it might not have been bolted down to the right torque like in the factory.
      I will see how I can put up some pics too.
      HouseCallAuto
      4/15/2014 HouseCallAuto
      Possible , can't rule anything out that would lock up an engine.
    • DerekC
      4/15/2014 DerekC
      Removed all spark plugs. There is no hydro-lock. Spark plugs look good.

      Removed the little torque converter cover. I don't see any bolt loose (but I only see one.)

      Drained the oil. No debris inside.

      Cut the timing belt off. Now two camshafts can move freely (but I didn't want to move them too much.)

      Removed the starter. The gear looks good. Peaked inside the flywheel. Looks normal.

      Tried to hand turn the crankbolt again (transmission in neutral like always). Still not moving a bit.

      Now, I gave up trying to find out why the engine doesn't turn over.

      Now I can only tow it to a shop. See if they want to remove the engine pan to check the crank. If that is ok, I will see if they remove the tranny and leave the engine just to see if engine still locks up. Question: Do they have to turn the engine to remove bolts on the torque converter to the flexplate? If so, they will not be able to take out and drop the tranny because they can’t turn the engine (and now without timing belt, they should not turn it because otherwise we will bend the valves.) So, just replace both engine and tranny at the same time is probably cheaper at this point.

      Some pics:
      http://www.beyondautomation.com/.../IMG_8101.jpg
      http://www.beyondautomation.com/.../IMG_8105.jpg
      http://www.beyondautomation.com/.../IMG_8141.JPG
      http://www.beyondautomation.com/.../IMG_8143.JPG
      http://www.beyondautomation.com/.../IMG_8144.JPG
      http://www.beyondautomation.com/.../IMG_8146.JPG
      http://www.beyondautomation.com/.../IMG_8147.JPG
      http://www.beyondautomation.com/.../starter-gear-out.jpg
      http://www.beyondautomation.com/.../IMG_8151.JPG
      http://www.beyondautomation.com/.../van-IMG_8091.jpg
      http://www.beyondautomation.com/.../MVI_8149.AVI

    • HouseCallAuto
      4/15/2014 HouseCallAuto
      The tranny can still be removed. The torque converter will stay attached to the engine. The TC slides out of the tranny easily.
      HouseCallAuto
      4/15/2014 DerekC
      I cut the belt without first marking all the position on the camshafts first. Now the shop guy said I should have. He can't put it back correctly. Question. Without any markings, can a new belt be put on?
      HouseCallAuto
      4/15/2014 HouseCallAuto
      Of course you can. But I am assuming that he does not want to put the belt back on right now while the engine cannot turn, right? Because that would not be very smart to try to do. Do that after the engine can rotate. I assume that he is not worried about being able to realign the crank and cams if the engine can turn?
    • DerekC
      4/16/2014 DerekC
      Look of his face told me he worried that I messed up the valves or lost some screws or messed up some hose connections as I didn't mark them (after seeing my picture printouts). Or he might bend a valve during engine removal. I guess he prefers to get another engine than play game with mine. I don't disagree with him even it would be nice to save my engine and I just want to know why my engine / tranny locked up.
      I will keep you guys updated.
      Too bad this place doesn't allow picture uploads.
      DerekC
      4/16/2014 HouseCallAuto
      People have attached pics without using a photo hosting site. I don't know how those few have done that.

      So when the tranny gets pulled out and the engine still cannot turn, the belt won't matter. Don't waste any labor money on the siezed engine to find the cause. They will add that time on to the bill ultimately. If the motor is seized there is nothin that you will be able to fix in there anyway as you know. Good luck with this project. By the way, I have an '06 Odyssey Touring with Navi.
    • DerekC
      4/20/2014 DerekC
      Ok. Update.
      Got a call from the shop mechanic this morning. He dropped the transmission and now the crankshaft can turn. I drove over there to see immediately. He said the transmission is totally locked up. The torque converter he doesn't know as he could not turn it by hand to prove it is defective. He said I just need the transmission which usually comes with torque converter. So, I went home and called around and found a guy selling a rebuilt one for $950 with core. He could deliver so I met him at the shop in the afternoon. Shop mechanic took a look at it and said "looks ok". So, now he has a rebuilt transmission and the core is gone. I also bought him a $50 AT cooler.
      He wants $1200 for the labor and $ for all the parts. He will replace 4 of the 5 engine mounts (yes, all bad), put back on a new timing belt, replace the spark plugs, two belts, valve adjust, valve cover gaskets, refill coolant and engine oil, install the AT cooler (which requires bumper to be removed?) put on the rebuilt transmission, fill it up with ATF. And if everything goes smoothly, I should have my van back on Tuesday with rebuilt tranny and new timing belt, new spark plugs, new mounts and an AT cooler, etc.

      So, so far, it is $950 for the tranny, $50 for the cooler. Then there will be $1200 for the labor and whatever $ for the parts on Tuesday.

      Hope the parts will not be too much and the rebuilt tranny is a good rebuilt.

      I asked if he has seen any tranny failure causing a crankshaft not cranking. He said this is the first time. The torque converter must have gone bad at the same time otherwise no way the engine can't turn.

      I will report back once I have my van back.

      http://www.beyondautomation.com/AImages/torque-converter.jpg

      http://www.beyondautomation.com/AImages/tranny.jpg

      http://www.beyondautomation.com/.../...nny%20removed.jpg
    • DerekC
      4/29/2014 DerekC
      Ok. MyOdyssey is back home. Everything runs good. With all the rebuilt (and running good) transmission and all the work done on the engine, it should last another 10 years I hope.

      New timing belt, valve cover gaskets, belts, all engine mounts, water pump, spark plugs, engine oil, oil filter, coolant, AT cooler installed (needing bumper removal), Steven at Omega Auto charged me $2164.22. The AT cooler cost me $55. The rebuilt transmission cost me $950. That is $3169.22 to give my odyssey a new life.

      So, a bad tranny COULD lock up the engine, making it not crankable even by hand.

      Steven at Omega Auto in Fremont CA is highly recommended. I rarely find such honest and hard working businessman.
      DerekC
      4/29/2014 HouseCallAuto
      A rare occurrence to have a tranny lock. Its gonna be the engine 9 out of 10 times. I hope that it was time to do the timing belt anyway.. I hope that you can amortize that 3 grand over the next few years of hopefully trouble free service.
    • DerekC
      4/29/2014 DerekC
      Right, 110k and timing belt change was due anyways. That was why I cut it (to try to prove that the valves were not bent.
  • AutoMD Member
    AutoMD Member - 2001 Honda Civic - Engine - 4/29/2014
    Driving down the highway suddenly lost power then engine quit
    Driving down highway, suddenly lost power,(felt like I had kicked it to neutral but was in drive) pulled over and engine quit and all warning lights came on. Would not restart. Someone told me to click key to accessory, wait 10 sec then try to restart. It worked ...
     
    • John's Auto Repair
      4/29/2014 John's Auto Repair
      That could be a fuel pump, ignition, or electrical problem, to mention the most common
      problems that happen. Have you tried to start the car since then? Please let me know
      what happens or what you hear when you try to start the car.
      John's Auto Repair
      4/29/2014 AutoMD Member
      The car started fine since then, I drove it home after, the 10 sec delay on the accessory. The check engine light stayed on but all other lights are off and temp and rrm gauges are great. Had power, and acceleration. Started right up this morning, and drove it around the block just to see if it was ok. Everything SEEMS fine this morning, just check engine light still on. Heard no strange sounds when I started it....normal start up, quiet engine.
  • AutoMD Member
    AutoMD Member - 2001 Honda Civic - Engine - 4/29/2014
    What could be wrong?
    When I start my car up it has a rough idle and begins to shake and if I switch the gear it completely turns off. The engine light is blinking very fast One mechanic said I needed a new engine. Also lately I've seen a leak under it please help
     
    0 answer
  • AutoMD Member
    AutoMD Member - 1993 Honda Accord - Engine - 4/28/2014
    It will crank but not start. Fuel pressure and spark are good. No clusterlight
    it stalled onme onmy way to work. Distributor was replaced a year ago. timing belt was replaced a year ago. replaced spark plug.
     
    • HouseCallAuto
      4/28/2014 HouseCallAuto
      Check the strength of the spark. It should be able to jump a 3/4" gap. Check to see if the injectors are getting pulsed by the ecm by inserting a noid light into the injector connector and update the post.
  • AutoMD Member
    AutoMD Member - 2007 Honda Civic - Engine - 4/16/2014
    Car hesitates to start occasionally
    I drive a 2007 civic si coupe with 240,000km and recently have had hesitated startups at random. Sometimes the car starts perfectly fine, other times not so easy. Whether I was just driving the car for an hour or starting it after it hasn't been driven for a full ...
     
    • dmarcl
      4/16/2014 dmarcl
      I have had this problem with another type of car &found out the fuel pressure regulator was bad.Replaced it & the problem was solved.
  • AutoMD Member
    AutoMD Member - 2007 Honda Civic - Engine - 4/16/2014
    My car panic alarm is going off and won't stop. can't use the key fob to shut it because the batteries are dead.
    Had to disconnect car battery to make it stop, thought that would reset it, but it didn't.
     
    • dmarcl
      4/16/2014 dmarcl
      sometimes on hondas you can use the key to lock & unlock the drivers door to reset the alarm.
  • AutoMD Member
    AutoMD Member - 2006 Honda Element - Engine - 4/14/2014
    My car shuts off at a stop or on a hill
    Shuts off and turns right back on but it's worse in the morning or when car is not warmed up
     
    0 answer
  • AutoMD Member
    AutoMD Member - 1999 Honda Accord - Engine - 4/13/2014
    Why won't my car stay running?
    ReCently I was driving and I turned the corner my car shut off I noticed that the temperature gauge was higher than normal also fluid was leaking out I thought it to be oil but there is also a sweet smell. Car was starting but won't stay running.
     
    • HouseCallAuto
      4/13/2014 HouseCallAuto
      Plug in a code reader and see what fault codes are stored. Find / locate the origin of the leak. The answers to those two things will be very telling to a mechanic.
  • AutoMD Member
    AutoMD Member - 1995 Honda Accord - Engine - 4/12/2014
    How to reset the ignition switch
    resetting or programing a new ignition switch/lock assembly
     
  • AutoMD Member
    AutoMD Member - 2007 Honda Civic - Engine - 4/8/2014
    The panic alarm is going off in the car and cant shut it because key fob batteries are dead
    We had to disconnect the car battery to make it stop. thought that would reset it, but it didn't. What would cause this?
     
    0 answer
  • AutoMD Member
    AutoMD Member - 1996 Honda Passport - Engine - 4/8/2014
    What is causing the rpms to be at 2 when I am stopped?
    I have had 4 02 sensors and h20 sensor replaced. Also throdal cable . what could be causing this? If I just drive 10 miles it is fine anything over that it starts to rev even at the stop sign. and keeps reving until I turn it off and let it cool down. Please help ...
     
    0 answer
  • AutoMD Member
    AutoMD Member - 2003 Honda Odyssey - Engine - 4/2/2014
    Alternator was replaced seven months ago
    Now, All dashboard indicating warning lights come on when accelerating
     
    • Jimm
      3/28/2014 Jimm
      Even with the new alternator - there are several possibilities; worn / faulty serpentine drive belt, worn drive belt tensioner, corroded / loose battery terminals or cable connections. Reference the AutoMD website and the 'How-To-Guides' for the specific steps to inspect and repair these items.

      As the first step - raise the hood to examine / inspect the battery terminals - should have no corrosion and should be clean and tight. Next, have the alternator, battery and charging system tested - for free - at any local auto parts store. Post your reply with these results for further assistance. The major indicator here - with your description is - the warning lights are on when accelerating - this indicates the issue is directly related to the belt and alternator pulley - specifically the lack of belt tension around the alternator pulley.

      With the worn belt and/ or belt tensioner - the slipping occurs to cause the under charging condition (low current or voltage output) from the alternator.

      The parts are readily available from these many on-line sources, www.partsgeek.com, www.rockauto.com, www.discountautoparts.com, www.autopartswarehouse.com, www.jcwhitney.com - to list only a few possibilities.
      In fact, they (RockAuto) list the serpentine drive belt from around $9.40 and the belt tensioner from around $22.70 for your vehicle.
    • HouseCallAuto
      3/28/2014 HouseCallAuto
      Since you did not mention any other detail I will assume that there is no noises also audible at the same time the lights are coming on? I will assume that you have not had the battery go dead and that the vehicle seemingly is still functioning normally and all that says that something is a miss is because these warning lampos are coming on when you accelerate the vehicle?
    • AutoMD Member
      3/29/2014 AutoMD Member
      Good question HouseCall. There's no discernible noise associated with the engine or alternator. The battery has not (yet) discharged and the vehicle is running normally.

      Having purchased a replacement alternator at O'Relly's seven months ago, I took the van there yesterday to borrow their diagnostic meter. The only code that popped up had something to do with emissions. The counter guy opined that the problem may be a short in one of the wiring harnesses. With a slight shift in the engine under load, he stated that could be the cause of all dashboard waring lights coming on. When I say all, I mean all, including 5 door ajar lights.

      After reading your response this morning Jimm, I'm inclined to further explore the steps you laid out. Thanks for both responses. Being old-school, I recall with fondness, the days when everything was accessible while working on cars. For all the innovative advances made to increase mileage and so forth, popping a hood now is an exercise in raw courage. On that tip, new cars suck. Being on SSD with the willingness to tackle a repair, the physical stamina required to get at anything busted just isn't there. I appreciate your posting the price of parts, if for no other reason than to be aware if some guy in a garage tries to take this Irishman to the cleaners.

      Next question: What's involved with a belt/tensioner repair? If not feasible for the average joe to tackle, what's considered a fair price for the repair? Your input and cyber-diagnostic feedback is appreciated.
      AutoMD Member
      3/29/2014 Jimm
      Ten minute task to replace the belt tensioner.
      Step 1) Remove the drive belt - use a pry bar or square drive / wrench on the belt tensioner to relieve the spring pressure - slip the belt off the tensioner pulley.

      Step 2) Remove the belt tensioner - loosen and remove the attachment bolt.

      Step 3) Install the new belt tensioner.

      Step 4) Install the serpentine drive belt - or a new belt as needed. The last step for the belt install is to reverse the removal step 1 - using the pry or wrench metho
    • HouseCallAuto
      3/29/2014 HouseCallAuto
      What i need to know is if the all the lights that come on when you accelerate are all of the same lights that come on for a bulb check when the ignition key is switched to the "on" position? Also, do the lights go out when you take your foot off the gas pedal?
    • AutoMD Member
      4/2/2014 AutoMD Member
      if it is a after market alternator it may be bad I have a 2002 and replaced it with after market and less than three months later it went out again mechanic at dealer said for some reason they seam to go out quick so if all else looks good I would have it checked
      AutoMD Member
      4/2/2014 HouseCallAuto
      YES MAYBE, POSSIBLE
  • AutoMD Member
    AutoMD Member - 1993 Honda Prelude - Engine - 4/2/2014
    Why does my engine seem like it is shaking? Why is it so sluggish to accelerate? Why is it idling so low?
    Just today my car started idling around 1000 RPM after ignition and dropping to about 400 RPM, making my engine seem to shake. Afraid it was going to stall, I revved the engine but it sunk back to 400 RPM and continued shaking. It also seems extremely sluggish when ...
     
    • Pepe
      4/2/2014 Pepe
      It sounds like it could be one of your sensors, any codes stored in the ECU? It could be running a rich fuel mixture, that could cause a rough idle, misfire, and general poor running of the engine. I would check the ect sensor. If that sensor is bad, the ECU is seeing a cold engine even though it may have warmed up and keep running in open loop ( rich mixture) setting until it gets a signal from the ECT sensor. You could check resistance before purchasing a new one.
  • AutoMD Member
    AutoMD Member - 2008 Honda Pilot - Engine - 4/1/2014
    Cost for replacing timing belt tensioner
    Leaking oil that would cause the belt to break and damage engine.79,000 miles.This is a new problem.
     
    • HouseCallAuto
      4/1/2014 HouseCallAuto
      The timing belt tensioner gets replaced when the timing belt gets replaced typically. I don't understand why you are only asking about this one component. is there more detail? The timing belt water pump and tensioner replacement would run about $800 with parts and labor.
  • TLH
    TLH - 1994 Honda Civic - Engine - 3/31/2014
    Engine dies when you release the key
    Turn key to start, it starts, release key and it dies. No power to electric windows unless key is turned.
     
    • Jason
      3/22/2011 Jason
      Sounds like the ignition switch is bad.

    • Pepe
      3/31/2014 Pepe
      You can easily find a diagram that shows you how to test and replace the ignition switch, there may be a loose connection also but most likely you switch is bad.

    • HouseCallAuto
      3/31/2014 HouseCallAuto
      1. Test the ignition switch by locating the Brown connector, in the driver's fuse box, just above the fuses. Locate the Black/Yellow (BLK/YEL) wire in the Brown connector. That wire should have battery voltage in the start and run position.

      2. If the BLK/YEL wire does not have battery voltage in the run position, jump the White (WHT) in the Brown connector to the BLK/YEL wire, and if the vehicle keeps running, the ignition switch has failed.