Honda brakes repair questions and answers
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dtganiere - 1999 Honda CR-V - Brakes - 9/28/2010
9/28/2010 Pave LowI know you have done steps 1-4, just focus onwards since it has tecniques on how to remove it
* Floor jack
* Jack stand
* Wheel chock
* Turkey baster
* DOT 3 brake fluid
* 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
* 1/2-inch drive metric socket set
* 1/2-inch drive ratchet
* Flathead screwdriver
* Impact screwdriver with Phillips head bit
* Bungee cord
* Lubricant spray
* Brake clean spray
* Large C-clamp
* New rotors
* 8-by-1.25 mm bolts (2)
* Emery cloth or light grade sandpaper
* Shop rags
* 1/2-inch drive adjustable torque wrench
Place a wheel chock behind one of the rear tires. Open the hood and remove the master cylinder cap and suck out 1/2 of the brake fluid from the reservoir using a turkey baster. Discard appropriately and replace the master cylinder cap.
Break the lug nuts loose on the front tires using a breaker bar and a socket.
Lift the left front quarter panel with the floor jack and place the jack stand under the front left frame rail of the CR-V. Remove the lug nuts and wheel.
Remove the caliper guide bolts using a ratchet and a socket. Pry the caliper off of the rotor using a flathead screwdriver. Support the caliper to the chassis using bungee cord so it does not dangle from the brake hose. Compress the piston of the caliper inward using a C-clamp until the piston is bottomed out in the housing of the caliper, then remove the C-clamp.
Remove the pads from the caliper anchor, but establish a relationship with the pads and their position in the anchor. If you're not replacing the pads with new pads, you'll need to replace them in the same position they were removed.
Remove the caliper anchor bolts with the ratchet and a socket. Use the breaker bar to help you break them loose, then switch to the ratchet to speed things up.
Remove the two retaining screws on the hub face of the rotor using the impact screwdriver with a Phillips head bit and and hammer. Strike the screwdriver in the reverse position on the head with the hammer to loosen the screws, then remove them.
Spray lubricant spray into the other two smaller screw holes on the face hub of the rotor. Screw in the two 8-by-1.25 mm screws by hand until they bottom out on the flange of the hub. Using the ratchet and a socket, tighten each one screw two times, then switch to the next and alternate until the rotor breaks free from the hub.
Clean the flange of the hub using an emery cloth or light grade sandpaper. Remove and rust or uneven areas caused by rust or corrosion. A hand-held rechargeable angled drill with a reconditioning disc and adapter would work nice, but most people don't have these available.
Spray the new rotor with brake clean spray to remove the rust preventative coating. Spray both sides liberally and wipe dry with a shop rag.
Place the new rotor onto the hub and use one lug nut to hold the rotor in place by tightening it on a lug stud away from the caliper and anchor.
Replace the caliper anchor and bolts. Tighten the bolt to 120 foot pounds with the adjustable torque wrench and a socket. Replace the pads into the anchor the same way they came out.
Place the caliper onto the pads and rotor and replace the caliper guide bolts and tighten. Remove the lug nut from the lug stud and replace the wheel and lug nuts. Tighten the lug nuts flush to the hub, then lower the CR-V and tighten the lug nuts alternately with the adjustable torque wrench set at 80 foot pounds and a socket.
Repeat steps 4-14 for the right side rotor.
Lower the CR-V back on the ground and pump the foot brake pedal several times to restore the hydraulic pressure back into the compressed caliper pistons.
Recheck and adjust the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir and add only new DOT 3 brake fluid.
Replace the cap, close the hood, remove the wheel chock, release the parking brake and test drive.
9/28/2010 HouseCallAutoYou will see two threaded holes in the rotor (8mm X 1.25) thread in two bolts that will help "push" the rotor away from the hub. Thread the two bolts in evenly, then smack the rotor. Obviously you must have already removed the two phillips screws that retain the rotors?
ajwaltz - 1999 Honda Accord - Brakes - 9/27/2010190,000 miles , I noticed bout 3-4 weeks ago thought it was coming from front . I changed brake pads on front 1st time ever doing something like that. Is the rear the same ? The maintenance light is on . But its been on, hell I reset the dam thing and it stays on. I ...
Pathfinder - 1981 Honda Civic - Brakes - 9/23/2010Bled the brakes not much help..now what do I check??
9/23/2010 JasonIf there is no air in the system and there are no leaks, then the master cylinder is the probable cause.
9/23/2010 ROBERTWas there any prior work performed on the vehicle for the brake system? There can still be air in the system if the brakes were not bled properly. There are bleeding procedures/bleeding sequences for different manufacturers. I would recommend bleeding the brake system starting at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder. R/R WHEEL, L/R WHEEL, R/F WHEEL, L/F WHEEL. Also verify that there are no leaks from the Master Cylinder, Calipers, Wheel Cylinders, and Brake Lines. If everything is ok, there can be an internal leak in the Master Cylinder and you would have to replace and bench bleed it before installing it on your vehicle. This is a simple procedure but must be done correctly or you can damage the new master cylinder. Then I would bleed the entire system again.
mario - 2000 Honda Accord - Brakes - 9/23/2010
arlester grayson - 2002 Honda Accord - Brakes - 9/18/2010happen when it's cold and every now and then and ssometime when it warm
9/18/2010 HouseCallAutoMost if the time the cause is a bad brake light switch. To confirm this, when the shifter will not come out of park, at that moment (while your foot is still on the brake pedal) ask anyone to tell you if the brake lights are working. If they are not working replace the brake light switch. If they are working normal and at the same time the shifter will not release from park, Check the shift lock solenoid to see if it receiving power and replace as necessary.
jesco75 - 1997 Honda CR-V - Brakes - 9/15/2010I had a mechanic check the vehicle out and the diagnostic machine located the right rear wheel where the problem with the ABS...I don't want to pay over $200 for a sensor when it is just the ABS control unit!
9/15/2010 HouseCallAutoSorry, you need better diagnostics than that. I would be able to know whether the wheel sensor or the module were bad but you need the full function scanner to read the live wheel speed data. If someone were to pay me to diagnose the cause of their ABS lamp on I would not give them a choice of two things. I would know for sure which is the cause.
rocky berry - 1991 Honda Accord - Brakes - 9/13/2010The brake lights will stay on after turning off the ignition and the only way to get them off is to pull the fuse out, can u help me with this problem?
mike - 1988 Honda CRX - Brakes - 9/13/2010when i fiddle with the bulb and try to put it back in the holder then it goes on. why does it do that.
rocky berry - 1991 Honda Accord - Brakes - 9/11/2010also i can get the stick to come of park with out putting the keyinto the shifter. what would be the problem?
Becky - 2000 Honda Civic - Brakes - 8/29/2010The brake lights on my honda civic ex won't work. I've replaced the bulbs, checked the fuse and installed a new brake switch and they're still not working. Help!
Mike - 2007 Honda Civic - Brakes - 8/25/2010
On1Accord - 2006 Honda Accord - Brakes - 8/24/2010