Sounds to me like there's a loose pad in there. A friend of mine had the same problem (not new brakes, but a loose pad). Could be that the brake shop didn't do a great job putting your brakes back together. a piece of metal or part of an old spring etc.. could have gotten lodged in the pad. They probably took the brakes apart, made sure there was no metal debris stuck to them, then re-assembled. As for the grinding, I would give that a little time. It may go away once the pads wear down enough to perfectly match the countour of the rotor

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Good day and thanks for the comments, im curious though if you would like to leave comments with...

1. The shop
2. Negotiator
3. AutoMD in general with their "Find a shop" listing

Actually you can leave feedback on the shops page in AutoMD.com, copy the link below and paste in your browser (ITS AN EXAMPLE of how to leave feedback). You can leave a review.

http://www.automd.com/shops/baker-collision-center_89650/

Please do not reply by clicking "Reply". reply by clicking "Answer Question" so it will reflect in my INBOX so i can get back to you if something comes up. If you post a comment, it will not appear on my inbox and i wont be able to follow your question.

Thanks for letting us know you had a good experience. Please find the shop you went to on Find A Shop and post your review. Your review and opinion matters to other AutoMD Members who may consider using that same shop.
Why did you decide not to book through the AutoMD Negotiator? Is there something we could do differently that would make booking through us more valuable to you?

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As long as the brake drum is just covering the brakes like normal, just hit it with a rubber hammer (or regular hammer, just don't do much damage) and rotate it slowly using the beating affect, until it comes loose, and pull it off.

If the drum is seized to the center hub, there is a way to gently force it off. Drilled through the drum are two threaded holes, within the bolt circle and 180 degrees from each other across the hub. Thread a bolt into each of these, 12mm X 20 threads/inch X 1.5 inches long. Start threading one of them in, and when you encounter resistance, go to the other. They are bottomed out on the wheel hub and forcing the brake drum away from it. Now tighten down on them alternately until you hear the brake drum come loose. You probably have to tighten both bolts until you hear it break loose both sides. Then it slides right off. If you don't have a couple of 12mm bolts handy, borrow the ones out of the bracket on the front of the exhaust manifold. They fit perfectly.

Actually, it might depend on which trim you have, I have the HX and had to remove my rear drum today. You have to carefully pry the center cap off, then you will see a large nut, this may or may not be held in place with a keeper pin. It should take a 1 and 1/4" socket to remove the nut, then the drum and hub will pull off the spindle.

you want to remove what ass?

so does mine

If you can feel it kick back in the pedal it is your ABS. Probably have moisture in your braking system. Have it pressure flushed.
This should be done every two to three years in any car with ABS.
If it makes the car shake it is a warped rotor usually caused by riding the brakes. Have the rotors turned or replaced.

Yes you can check run-out of the rotor with it still installed on the car. Lift the suspect corner and remove the tire and wheel.
Place a solid item like a jack-stand right against the outer edge of the rotor without actually touching it. Now turn the rotor and watch the air gap. If it increases or the rotor touches the reference item then that rotor is warped.
Also look for blue scoring in one specific area.

Try this. Accelerate to 60 km/h (40 MPH) and hit the brakes hard but do not stop. Now accelerate to 80 km/h (50 MPH) and do the same then 100 km/h (60 MPH) and again brake and then to 100 km/h again and brake HARD until you are almost stopped but accelerate again. Now try not to stop for about 1 km and if you have to don't hold the brake pedal down while stopped.
Many times this will clear up a warped or contaminated rotor.

maybe you should answer it

The brake cylinder seal is broken and causing the brake fluid to leak. Visit this site and see their detailed instructions .

http://www.autozone.com/.../...rGuideContent.jsp

maybe there's a hole

try it and let me know

I have the same problem with 93 Accord, only sometimes front brake stick and get hot. After pressing in the brake after stopping and releases the brakes. Have taken it to be check out and test driven, but never a problem when someone is checking the problem. Still wondering.

try to open the two front bleeder screws and let them bleed but always make sure you have sufficient fluid in reservoir at all times. After you let them drain about a half a cup of fluid close them and move to the rear and perform the same steps. But always make sure there is plenty of fluid in the master cylinder

when you say the rear SIDE brake light doesnt work, does that mean the main rear brake lights do work??? if the rear main lights work, its not trouble with the multi-func switch in the steering colomn. but if all rear brake lights dont work, then there is a chance it could be the multi-function switch. be sure to check your fuse and brake light switch first before going thru with the work and expense of replacing the multi-switch

Try unplugging the brake light switch at the peddle. The switch may be stuck.

Maybe related to slight amount of dirt trapped between the brake pads and the brake rotor. May also be related to the rear parking brake not fully releasing from the brake rotor. Try to inspect and clean the parking brake cable at the right rear wheel - where it connects to the brake caliper - may be corroded or dirty.