The brake proportioning valve is self-centering.Once the brakes are bled properly to remove all residual air, the proportioning valve centers or re-positions, based on the hydraulic pressure and relative balance in the system.

So your lower brakes don't work? Usually the lower brake lites are wired through the turn signal switch. The high-mount brake lite isn't wired that way. Check for voltage at lower brake lites. Then you may need to check voltage to and from the turn signal switch for the lower brake lites.

Did you check for voltage, anywhere? Use a voltage tester. If you have voltage check for ground.

Inspect the electronic brake control module ( ebcm ). Try to do a reset by unplugging the wiring harness to the ebcm or inspect it for any sign of defects such as a fried components.

See this FIG : Power, Ground, Serial Data - w/o Traction Assist(c) (2001)

http://www.autozone.com/.../...rGuideContent.jsp

i had my ebrake release cable snap. so for a week before i replaced it i just got under the dash and used me hand to push the mechanism that the release cable is attached too. try it, and be sure to hold the ebrake pedal so it doesnt fly up and hit you in the face. look under the car on the driver side and there should be a cable right behind where the running board would be, and it goes all the way to the back of the vehicle and see if it is tight or loose, if it is still tight you might have to cut it to take the e-brake off, if it is loose it means something is stuck inside the e-brake drum

It is possible that your wheel speed sensor is faulty. Diagnose your vehicle with a scan tool/code reader to determine what the stored troublecode is.

what is your question?

Check switch at upper part of brake pedal

Brake Light Switch
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Disable the SIR system (if equipped).
Remove the clip (R/V Series) or unclip the switch (C/K Series) and unplug the electrical connector from the brake light switch.
Remove the switch.
Installation is the reverse of removal.

The ground shouldn't have power. I can't tell about your rewiring. My thought was a ground issue? The brown wire from the headlamp switch should carry voltage to the tail lamps, when head lamp switch is on. You can bypass the switch by using a jumper between the orange and brown wire. The orange wire is hot all the time.

Yes, that part # is correct but ACDELCO also has an upgraded version @ part # 18B147A - the A at the end is for "Advantage" do not know specifically what the advantage is however the drum costs a little more but it's your call, either one is fine and they are both genuine ACDELCO parts. If you look at the inside door jam of your van you will see a decal with a n=bunch of three digit codes. This is a RPO decal Regular Production Options. You will likely see the code JD7 indicating the brake system your van was built with. The two parts numbers fit JD7 brake systems. Just confirm the JD7 on your decal.

No its not

http://www.etrailer.com/.../20264.html

A pulsating brake pedal, which may be accompanied by a shuddering or jerky stop during normal braking, usually means a warped rotor or an out-of-round drum although it can sometimes be caused by loose wheel bearings, a bent axle shaft or loose brake parts. If the vehicle is equipped with ABS, however, some pedal feedback and noise is normal during panic stops or when braking on wet or slick surfaces. But you should not experience any ABS pedal feedback when braking normally on dry pavement.

The faces of a disc brake rotor must be parallel (within .0005 inch on most cars) and flat (no more than about .002 to .005 inches of runout) otherwise it will kick the brake pads in and out when the brakes are applied, producing a pulsation or vibration that can be felt in the brake pedal as the rotor alternately grabs and slips.

You can often see warpage in a brake rotor by simply looking at it. If the rotor has telltale glazed or discolored patches on its face, chances are it is warped. Measuring it with a dial indicator and checking it for flatness with a straight edge will confirm the diagnosis.

Resurfacing the rotor to restore the faces will usually eliminate the pulsation (unless the rotor is bent or is badly worn and has started to collapse in which case the rotor must be replaced). But it may only do so temporarily because of metallurgical changes that take place in the rotor. Hard spots often extend below the surface of the rotor. Resurfacing will restore the surface, but the hard spot may reappear again in a few thousand miles as the rotor wears. For this reason, GM and others recommend replacing warped rotors rather than resurfacing them.

Pedal pulsation caused by drum warpage isn't as common, but it can happen. A drum can sometimes be warped out-of-round by applying the parking brake when the brakes are hot. As the drum cools, the force of the shoes causes the drum to distort.

What causes a rotor to warp? Overtorquing or unevenly torquing the lug nuts with an impact wrench is a common cause. For this reason, most experts recommend using a torque wrench to tighten lug nuts when changing a wheel. There are also special torque-limiting extension sockets called "Torque Sticks" that can be safely used with an impact wrench to accurately tighten lug nuts. But a plain impact wrench should never be used for the final tightening of the lug nuts because most provide no control whatsoever over the amount of torque applied to the nuts.

Overheating can also cause rotors to warp. Overheating may be the result of severe abuse or dragging brakes. Defects in the rotor casting, such as thick and thin areas can also cause uneven cooling that leads to warpage. Hard spots in the metal due to casting impurities can be yet another cause.