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GMC brakes repair questions and answers

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  • jnnreising84
    jnnreising84 - 2009 GMC Envoy - Brakes - 12/1/2012
    Every time that i hit the brakes, the parking brake and the anti skid comes on and dings until i let off the brake
    is there an adjustment that needs to be made in rear brakes, ;like the parking prake adjustment, or is there a sensor going bad?
     
    • Bill
      12/1/2012 Bill
      AND YOU HAVE NO EXTENDED WARRANTY.
  • CHARLIE
    CHARLIE - 1999 GMC Jimmy - Brakes - 11/24/2012
    HOW TO REPLACE THE LEFT REAR BRAKE BACKING PLATE
    4WD
     
    • Jimm
      11/24/2012 Jimm
      Remove the rear wheel, remove the rear brake rotor or drum. Remove the rear brakes, unbolt and remove the backing plate from the axle flange. The installation is the reverse of the removal.
      Jimm
      11/24/2012 CHARLIE
      i DO NOT HAVE TO REMOVE THE AXLE ON A 4WD?
  • a.ralston06
    a.ralston06 - 1999 GMC Yukon - Brakes - 11/20/2012
    What is causing my truck to idle down when applying the brakes?
    sitting in park i apply the the brake and my engine drops idle speed from around 700 to about 4... the harder i apply, the lower it drops. what could it be?
     
    0 answer
  • a.ralston06
    a.ralston06 - 1999 GMC Yukon - Brakes - 11/20/2012
    What is causing my truck to idle down when applying the brakes?
    sitting in park i apply the the brake and my engine drops idle speed from around 700 to about 4... the harder i apply, the lower it drops. what could it be?
     
    0 answer
  • jimmy salas
    jimmy salas - 2008 GMC Sierra 1500 - Brakes - 11/17/2012
    How do I lube parking brake cable
    Owners Manuel says lubricate parking brake cable
     
    • CVO
      11/17/2012 CVO
      Use a syringe full of oil and a needle to squeeze between the cable and the casing or see if the red tube of the WD-40 lubricant will fit in it.
  • j.gallop872
     
    • HouseCallAuto
      11/4/2012 HouseCallAuto
      If the rotors look ugly at all you should replace them. If they do look like they are in good shape then return the pads you bought and go online and buy acdelco pads with a part # that begins with 17 (acdelco makes two different grades) The pads are not cheap but they will not squeal. They will also last longer with the least amount of black dust on the wheels.
    • atecmak
      11/10/2012 atecmak
      Alot of times semimetallic pads cause that issue. Go w/ a softer pad/organic, if you're crunchin. they don't last as long but are damn quite. AC Delco is what you need but may be pricey. try ordering them on line from a place called Nevada Brakes.
  • bamlhaley
    bamlhaley - 1996 GMC Sonoma - Brakes - 11/10/2012
    Turn signals work until i hit the brake pedal
     
    • atecmak
      11/10/2012 atecmak
      You have an apparent short to ground issue.
  • wilsonsherri20
    wilsonsherri20 - 1993 GMC C1500 - Brakes - 11/9/2012
    My brake fluid is leaking out the back right tire
     
    • Jason
      11/9/2012 Jason
      Sounds like you'll need a rear brake job done including wheel cylinders (drum brakes).
  • donaldjamison31
     
    0 answer
  • duckhunters84
    duckhunters84 - 1991 GMC Sonoma - Brakes - 10/28/2012
    Why brake light wont work and running brake light (tailgate lights wont work)
    brake light wont come on when press pedal, when i turn headlight on the running light wont come on, when i turn signal on it become 4 way flasher, i have replaced all lightbulbs and check fuse and check switch.. when i put it in rev the rev white light dont come on ...
     
    0 answer
  • Steve Hart
    Steve Hart - 2001 GMC Yukon XL 1500 - Brakes - 10/18/2012
    Randomly my ABS warning light comes on and may go off if I stop and restart the car. It triggers the brake warning lt.
    150,000 miles and well maintained. Runs like new. No brake problems. All new brakes, rotors, etc. Driving with the ABS light on triggers the brake warning light. That used to make gages go wild and the truck lose all power, but it stopped doing that. Runs fine now. ...
     
    • graham-ss
      2/15/2012 graham-ss
      wheel speed senser sounds like a bad wire to one of them it will do that the truck goes into a safe mode like setting so you couse an acident ask your mechanics if they have a saner that can graph the sensers and go for a drive
      graham-ss
      2/16/2012 Steve Hart
      Thanks, Graham. Sorry I didn't get back to you first because you hit it on the head when you said "safe mode". That's what happened the first time this showed up. The truck wouldn't drive over 5 MPH twice, when my wife was miles from home. That began the oddyssey to solve the Sherlock Holmes mystery. I'm going back to an old car with a distributor and a carburetor and nothing electric except an alternator, ignition and lights. Saving on gas isn't worth getting robbed monthly.
    • Spoon Sports
      2/15/2012 Spoon Sports
      "No brake problems. All new brakes, rotors, etc. "- Yeah well, the light is for sensors and not parts so im thinking during the process oif installing those parts, the ABS sensor might have been plugged or whatnot.

      When the ABS light is ON the usuall suspects are

      1. ABS speed sensor
      2. ABS module (unlikely)

      Your ABS has been disabled but you can still brake old school style. I THINK There is a service bulletin out for this problem. Apparently many of the ABS codes are because of a bad ground. GM makes a grounding kit, it's a special nut and bolt for 7 bucks. My dealer wanted to do the same, until I showed them the bulletin.

      Spoon Sports
      2/15/2012 Steve Hart
      Thanks guys. I was told that it might be a wheel speed sensor, but the supposedly trained mechanic couldn't say for sure and I wasn't going to let him start any trial and error bologna at my expense. Previously he had supposedly tracked the problem to a sensor on the power takeoff and changed it. That did nothing. Then another mechanic said the same thing and checked the first guy's work. He said the first guy never changed the sensor, so he did it. Same old problem and more wasted of time and $
    • Steve Hart
      2/15/2012 Steve Hart
      When it caused the gages to go wild the first clue was the speedometer needle bouncing up and down right after the red brake warning light came on, regardless of how long the ABS light had been on, so a wheel speed sensor really does sound like the culprit.
    • Spoon Sports
      2/15/2012 Spoon Sports
      Good luck chief
    • HouseCallAuto
      2/16/2012 HouseCallAuto
      Faulty EBCM is most common cause - Electronic Brake Control Module but someone has to check ABS module for codes with shop grade scan tool. These codes are C codes, not P codes. Look for a C0265 fault code and if present replace the EBCM.
      HouseCallAuto
      2/16/2012 Steve Hart
      That's another trial and error thing this one mechanic tried to pull on me. He's supposed to be such an expert and at one point he said I might need to replace the brake computer and that they cost about $1000 just for the part, but he couldn't say for sure if that's where the problem was so he doesn't have the proper diagniostic equipment. Mr. trial and error tries to pull another fast one. Isn't checking the checking the wheel speed sensors a total nightmare?
      HouseCallAuto
      2/16/2012 Steve Hart
      Is that reality show going to be called "House Call Auto"? I love DIY shows and I've been working on cars for 45 years and still do most of my own work..... until some electronic nightmare screws me up. I almost never took a car to a mechanic until I got old and all busted up, but I still get out there and fight with them a lot. My family has a whole fleet and I have to do a lot of the work and all the figuring out.
      HouseCallAuto
      2/17/2012 Steve Hart
      Last night I remembered that one previous mechanic had checked the wheel speed sensor and said the corrosion fix repair had already been done. My wife remembered that too, so I'm just going to replace EBCM. I see they aren't anywhere near $1,000 and I can have mine rebuilt for only $45, so that was another major auto mechanic scam avoided. The highest price I saw on eBay was a little over $300 new. This is exactly why I have personally done every repair I could possibly do, since 1967.
    • joeP
      2/16/2012 joeP
      I had a problem that sounds a little like yours, except it was on a 1994 mercury villager. a code is being stored when light comes on. however when engine is turned off and again operated the light will come on again after a while. the code for this problem directed me to the left rear sensor or specific wire or connector. this van is equipped with bosch antilock braking system. brakes are monitored in milliseconds continuously. So they can react immediately when needed. Therefore it only takes a minor poor connection to cause a problem. On this problem power steering fluid had leaked on a connector under the hood. Solution: locate and disconnect and clean with a proper solvent for such purposes. if you have a code reader you can erase code(s) after repair. hope this helps.
      joeP
      2/16/2012 Steve Hart
      Thanks for the info, Joe. I think House Call Auto hit the nail right on the head. If it isn't the computer, which I'm pretty sure it is, I'll have to mess with the wheel speed sensors. At least now I know what to have diagnosed and it's a simple thing to just ask who can diagnose the EBCM before I pay some quack. If there's a code it's in a different computer that I can't access with my peon scan tool.
      joeP
      2/16/2012 HouseCallAuto
      You can by a fairly inexpensive ABS code reader, maybe a hundred or two. Will still be cheaper than a shop overall and I can coach you through the finishing touches.
    • Larry Koltnow
      10/18/2012 Larry Koltnow
      Steve, I have a 2000 Yukon XL, and recently (intermittently, but lately on a daily basis), my brake and ABS warning lights came on at the same time....everything drove and braked fine, but lights wouldn't go out until I stopped and restarted engine. Sometimes they went out, sometimes not. The mechanics said it was a ground problem, but turned out it wasn't. Then they said it must be the module ($1200 plus labor)...I said no, and left the GMC agency and went to another mechanic. My brakes and rotors were very worn, so he put on all new ones, and the lights have not come on in a couple of days. It's possible that the lights came on to let me know my brakes needed work, but perhaps not. Since you say you have all new stuff already, you probably have a different issue, but I had luck once long ago by calling GMC in Detroit and having someone check out all memos in their more extensive manuals and bulletins....it's possible my problem is not solved, so let me know if you come up with anything. I'm going to call GMC if the issue continues....Best of luck, Larry
  • Joseph
     
  • george
     
    • olds40316mm
      10/6/2012 olds40316mm
      Try adjusting the rear brakes (adjusters are probably stick) that will get you a full pedal But as for your pedel bleeding down makes me think your replacement master cylinder is still at fault
 
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