check stabilizer arms and bushings and inner and outer tyrods both upper and lower

If the *shudder* or *wobble* only happens when braking and it shakes the steer wheel, then your cause is rotors in the front or the surface that the rotors lay against is not clean and may be binding the rotor at the hub center, too snug a fit because of rotors out of tolerance for center hole size combined with rust buildup at the wheel hub. Or, the rotors you got are defective. It happens. i just did brakes and rotors fpr the same reason on a 2010 Town and Country. After installing the rotors It seemed worse. It was not my imagination. A second set of rotors cured the problem.

check to be sure that you do not have a stuck piston in a calliper. Be sure that both brake pads are moving freely. The wear on your rotors should be the same on inner and outer surfaces, both right and left. If one is stuck it would distort the rotor, resulting in the shrudder you feel.

I had a similar issue with my ABS light coming on mainly when I started up then slowly flicker away but would pop on intermittently. After ruling out worn pads or bad wheel sensors I ended replacing the abs module and my ABS light has not come back on since. The ABS module new from the dealer is was nearly $1000 I bought a used one for $130 from ebay

Air in the brake system can make your brake pedal feel spongy and vague.

See this article on How to Bleed Your Brakes
http://www.popularmechanics.com/.../4213448

1.Check the wheel sensor harness, they could been removed and didn't tighten back to their designated position.They might banging back and forth, causing the abs, brake light to illuminate.

2.See a repair shop to retrieve the ABS codes

3. Or see this OTC 9450 Bilingual OBD II Scan Tool, ABS and Airbag (SRS) Code Reader
by OTC to retrieve the fault codes.

http://www.amazon.com/.../ref=sr_1_1

When you bleed the brakes pump the pedel till it stiffens up then have someone open a bleeder push hard the pedel will go down close that bleeder and keep pushing and have them open a different bleeder till the pedel goes all the to the floor repeat this several times I think that the perportioning valve is stuck .It will move once the bleeder on the apply side has no pressure holding that in place Good Luck

there is a bulb in there.

First step - have the warning light (stored fault code) scanned -for free - at any local auto parts store, such as; Advance Auto, Auto Zone, NAPA. Try the 'How-To-Guides' feature on the AutoMD website for the specific steps to inspect and diagnose the front suspension and bearings.

See this How to Bleed Your Brakes

http://www.popularmechanics.com/.../4213448

There is only a possibility of two sizes, 3/16" or 1/4". If the line you want to replace looks the same diameter as the line that goes intpo the rear wheel cylinders then it is 3/16" line. if it is fatter then it is 1/4". That is the only way I know to give you an answer that you can confirm for yourself. There are no cars or light trucks that have 1/4" line going into a wheel cylinder, they are all 3/16". But the feed line that runs from the front can be 1/4".

Check the whole brake line system for any leaks.
Bleed the air out of the brake system.
And check the master cylinder.