If the rotors look ugly at all you should replace them. If they do look like they are in good shape then return the pads you bought and go online and buy acdelco pads with a part # that begins with 17 (acdelco makes two different grades) The pads are not cheap but they will not squeal. They will also last longer with the least amount of black dust on the wheels.

Alot of times semimetallic pads cause that issue. Go w/ a softer pad/organic, if you're crunchin. they don't last as long but are damn quite. AC Delco is what you need but may be pricey. try ordering them on line from a place called Nevada Brakes.

You have an apparent short to ground issue.

Sounds like you'll need a rear brake job done including wheel cylinders (drum brakes).

wheel speed senser sounds like a bad wire to one of them it will do that the truck goes into a safe mode like setting so you couse an acident ask your mechanics if they have a saner that can graph the sensers and go for a drive

"No brake problems. All new brakes, rotors, etc. "- Yeah well, the light is for sensors and not parts so im thinking during the process oif installing those parts, the ABS sensor might have been plugged or whatnot.

When the ABS light is ON the usuall suspects are

1. ABS speed sensor
2. ABS module (unlikely)

Your ABS has been disabled but you can still brake old school style. I THINK There is a service bulletin out for this problem. Apparently many of the ABS codes are because of a bad ground. GM makes a grounding kit, it's a special nut and bolt for 7 bucks. My dealer wanted to do the same, until I showed them the bulletin.

When it caused the gages to go wild the first clue was the speedometer needle bouncing up and down right after the red brake warning light came on, regardless of how long the ABS light had been on, so a wheel speed sensor really does sound like the culprit.

Good luck chief

Faulty EBCM is most common cause - Electronic Brake Control Module but someone has to check ABS module for codes with shop grade scan tool. These codes are C codes, not P codes. Look for a C0265 fault code and if present replace the EBCM.

I had a problem that sounds a little like yours, except it was on a 1994 mercury villager. a code is being stored when light comes on. however when engine is turned off and again operated the light will come on again after a while. the code for this problem directed me to the left rear sensor or specific wire or connector. this van is equipped with bosch antilock braking system. brakes are monitored in milliseconds continuously. So they can react immediately when needed. Therefore it only takes a minor poor connection to cause a problem. On this problem power steering fluid had leaked on a connector under the hood. Solution: locate and disconnect and clean with a proper solvent for such purposes. if you have a code reader you can erase code(s) after repair. hope this helps.

Steve, I have a 2000 Yukon XL, and recently (intermittently, but lately on a daily basis), my brake and ABS warning lights came on at the same time....everything drove and braked fine, but lights wouldn't go out until I stopped and restarted engine. Sometimes they went out, sometimes not. The mechanics said it was a ground problem, but turned out it wasn't. Then they said it must be the module ($1200 plus labor)...I said no, and left the GMC agency and went to another mechanic. My brakes and rotors were very worn, so he put on all new ones, and the lights have not come on in a couple of days. It's possible that the lights came on to let me know my brakes needed work, but perhaps not. Since you say you have all new stuff already, you probably have a different issue, but I had luck once long ago by calling GMC in Detroit and having someone check out all memos in their more extensive manuals and bulletins....it's possible my problem is not solved, so let me know if you come up with anything. I'm going to call GMC if the issue continues....Best of luck, Larry

See this FIG : Center High Mounted Stop Lamp(c) (2001)
http://www.autozone.com/.../...rGuideContent.jsp

It connected to Fuse 10 A and a High Mount Stop lamp relay.Check them.

Try adjusting the rear brakes (adjusters are probably stick) that will get you a full pedal But as for your pedel bleeding down makes me think your replacement master cylinder is still at fault

c0265 it has to do with the ground on the frame.. All these look to involve wiring problem as the modulo..

I cannot tell you a cause because the cause is not clear because you have both these codes present at the same time.

For the C0298 >>

1. At the Electronic Brake Traction Control Module (EBTCM) disconnect and check for voltage on the Orange/Black wire at pin B4. Turn the key on, engine off. The expected voltage is 5.0 volts.

2. If 5 volts are present raise the Underhood Electrical Center (UHEC). Inspect the wiring for rodent damage.

3. If no problem is found, verify the Tan/Black wire is good to the Green connector at the PCM on pin 5. 5 volts should be present there also.

4. If not, locate and repair the open circuit in the Tan/Black wire.

For the C0265 >>

1. Verify 12 volts power on the Red wire, and ground on the Black wire, at the two pin connector to the Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM).

2. Disconnect the plug from the bottom of the EBCM going to the motor. Then power and ground those wires and verify the motor runs and how it sounds.

3. If the motor runs and sounds fine, then the EBCM has to be replaced.

4. If the motor does not run, replace the motor and retest to see if the code returns.

5. Calibrate the tire size using the scanner after replacing the EBCM. If replacement is necessary, you will have to have someone program the tire size into it using a shop grade professional scan tool.

The pump motor relay is built internally of the EBCM and can only be serviced as the whole EBCM. Also note that if the pump motor is bad, it can damage the relay from too much current draw.

Note; the EBCM and the EBTCM are two different components. I believe that these two codes have the same cause as there are shared circuitry between them relating to serial data communication. When you find the cause for one it willolve the other as well. Good luck, thats all I got.

See this How to Bleed Brakes
FAQ and Step-by-Step Instructions

http://www.zeckhausen.com/bleeding_brakes.htm

Note: keep holding the brake pedal until the bleeder is closed.

There are many articles out there on bleeding brakes. Here's one: http://www.zeckhausen.com/bleeding_brakes.htm