I am doing this 36 years. Do not think for a second that I don't know that *some* of the springs are color coded relating to their strengths, however, on your GMC Jimmy that you have asked about I was trying to give you the answer that you need for this vehicle, not an answer that covers all vehicles and all spring kits. There are no springs in the kit for this vehicle that look so identical to each other yet have different colors. The return springs are short and long, The holddown springs only fit on their respective sides and the spring just on the top of the star adjuster which come 2 different colors only indicates left and right. The strength of these springs is the same. Do you understand now why I answered your question as I did? The only two springs in a spring kit (but not this application) that have different colors indicating strength are return springs that sometimes have a difference between them of one spring convolution. The front shoe and the rear shoe need to be controlled with different spring tensions to allow the shoes to make contact with the drum evenly.

Tell me the brand of the spring kit and the part # that is on the box it came in please.

I direct your attention to the picture in the link at the end of the text. This is the spring kit for your Jimmy. Lets detail where each spring goes. The two matching BLUE springs at the top left are the return springs for the REAR position - REAR shoe on both sides of the truck. The two RED springs below that are the return springs for the FRONT position FRONT shoe on both sides of the truck. The WHITE and the RED spring (top right) go on top of the star adjustor. I believe that RED is for RIGHT side but, verify that it matches in SHAPE exactly to what is in the right position on your vehicle before taking it apart. These two springs have the same tension but differ ever so slightly which you will see when you match it to the old ones. They differ in the direction that the spring is wound in (right and left) The YELLOW hold down springs go on the star adjustment lever side and the Green hold down springs go on the other shoe. The only brakes I have ever seen on the rear of a Blazer / Jimmy is 9-1/2" X 2". Verify that this is the size you have. If that is correct then the info I have supplied here is accurate. I used ACDELCO brand as my picture reference because I do notice other brands paint the spring colors differently from what I can see in other brands for the same application. ACDELCO brand is GM owned. Hope all that helps.


http://www.google.com/imgres

It is very rare but it is possible that your Jimmy was built with larger brakes than 9-1/2". Measure the interior diameter of the brake drum. 95% of Jimmy and Blazer will have 9.5" diameter. Maybe 5% will be 10" or even 11" (I have never seen this ever but there is a listing for it and the spring kit is a different part #).

Mechanics don't install them by color, we look at the spring and we just know because we have done it hundreds of times. Match the shape of each spring to what comes off. or are you going to say that it is all apart on both sides already? I seriously doubt that anyone reading this will be able to give you a user friendly answer as to what color goes where. Hope I'm wrong. It is not the color that matters, it's the shape.

Repeat question. Usually there is no adjustment in the brake pedal freeplay - this is compensated for in the master cylinder and power brake booster linkage. The brake pedal position - however - can be adjusted (front-to-back) by the threaded stop just behind the brake pedal arm on the floorboard by the pedal pivot.

Usually there is no adjustment in the brake pedal freeplay - this is compensated for in the master cylinder and power brake booster linkage. The brake pedal position - however - can be adjusted (front-to-back) by the threaded stop just behind the brake pedal arm on the floorboard by the pedal pivot.

Hope this helps

http://www.ehow.com/.../...rake-sensors.html

There is no kit that I am aware of. Does not mean it cannot be done. Maybe there is a kit. Start google searches.

Best place is to go to your local auto recycler (wrecking yard). There you can get a complete setup, just ask the owner of the yard to check his Cross Reference Manual and he'll be able to tell you the vehicle to get your parts from. Don't forget to record all the details so when you need parts to make repairs to your new system you'll be able to answer what model and year your system came from,

Nothing to do with booster. Booster is just for power assist. When they fail, pedal becomes hard. If truck has drum brakes on rear, check adjustment. If they are to far out of adjustment or adjusters are frozen, that will give you excessive pedal travel (shoes have to move to far before contacting drums), often mistaken for hydraulic/master cylinder problem.

first bleed your mastercylinder. Then bleed the remainder of the brake hydrolic system starting with the furthest wheel from the master cylinder. That should take care of your problem One important item, make sure that the fluid reservoir is always topped up or you could put air back into the system.
Should you still have poor pedal, have the system pressure bled at your favorite shop because there have been times when manual bleeding just won't do the trick.

There is a problem with either the rear brake adjustment as tnharpman said or if you replaced calipers (not sure if you did) maybe you have the left front on the right and vice versa, A shortcut to isolate what wheel or wheels is causing the problem is using a vice grip and being extremely careful, crimp the rubber brake hoses closed that go to each front wheel and crimp the single rear brake hose where it comes into the splitter on the differential housing. That should get you a pedal if the master is good (likely). Then remove the vice grips one wheel at a time starting with the front and see when you lose the pedal and that will ID the wheel or wheels if in rear.

You should inspect your brake power booster for vacuum leaks.

You have a vacuum leak. Either at the booster, hose going to booster may be cracked or has a hole in it.

Inspect the brake power booster, a broken diaphragm or a air leaked will cause that symptoms.

It could be the wheel bearing is defective. Have the front of the vehicle raise and wobble the tires, notice clearance on it and also spin the tires. If noise appear and clearance is obvious, then you got a bearing failure, replace it. Check also the brake rotor dust shield, it may be touching the rotor and creates a scraping noise.

if you have gear oil seeping out onto your brakes, that means axle seal is out. as for the slop in your axle, pull cover off and inspect, make sure clip isn't broken or spider gears.......etc...etc......

yes there is a axle shaft bearing. a bearing puller or fabricate your own tool that will engage behind bearing. one suggestion is.....if you haven't done alot of this type of work....have some one else do it...or it can get very expensive.

You cannot find it under the vehicle because the harness is placed inside, in the very corner and travel under the floor mats

May be the brake light switch beneath the brake pedal is faulty. First, check the connection (plug) and wiring for proper connection / looseness at the switch. Also, check the fuses and relays for corrosion and proper contact within the individual holder.

Try the 'How-To-Guides' for the general steps of how to replace the brake rotors and pads.

A hydraulic braking system doesn’t work well when there are pockets of air in the brake line, as it causes the brakes to be soft and mushy. Bleeding the brakes is the process of removing air pockets from the brake line by slightly opening the bleeding nipples and pressing the brake pedal to allow the bubbles to escape from the system.

If done correctly, the brake pedal should become firm again. If they are still spongy after bleeding, it is an indication that the job was not completed properly. A common mistake that’s made, while servicing a vehicle’s braking system, is to allow the brake fluid reservoir to run low and draw air. The brake fluid reservoir should be topped-up after a couple of presses of the brake pedal. In any case, if the brakes are still spongy the process will have to be repeated.