You should be able to install 13 inch wheels and tires. It depends on the wheel width and backspacing. Check the many on-line tire websites, such as; Discount Tire or Tire Rack to check fitment potential.

Here you go my friend : http://arrc.ebscohost.com/.../90886g52l.gif

How old is your battery? You might want to check that in addition. Autozone will check your battery for you free of charge. Also check and make sure that you have no other electrical accessory or any other electrical item drawing current from the battery while the engine is off. Sounds like something is running drawing power a short perhaps.

i had autozone test my battery and it was good im wondering do these cars have voltage regulators and if so where is it located? and could that be the cause of the battery going dead while im driving down the road for about 20 -30 minutes faster when the lights are on at night. Anybody ever had this problem , its got me stumped.

check your cigarette lighter, check mirrors on overhead sun visors, check your stereo, any other accessories that use the battery

you have a bad ground. check all wiring harness's.

HEATER CORE
Removal & Installation
Remove instrument panel. See INSTRUMENT PANEL. Drain coolant from cooling system.
Disconnect all cables and ducts from heater case. Remove heater case from vehicle. Remove screws
and clips from heater case. Separate heater case into halves (if necessary). Remove heater core from
case. To install, reverse removal procedure.

next
a/c core (evap) out, if need be........
1. Disable air bag system. See AIR BAG RESTRAINT SYSTEM article in
ACCESSORIES/SAFETY EQUIPMENT SECTION. Remove driver's air bag module.
Discharge A/C system, using approved refrigerant recovery/recycling equipment. Disconnect
negative battery cable. Disconnect refrigerant lines from evaporator case. Cap all refrigerant
line openings. Remove evaporator vase nut on engine side of bulkhead.
2. Remove glove box. Remove passenger's air bag module. Loosen 2 blower motor housing
support bolts. Loosen evaporator-to-heater clamp. Slide clamp on to heater case. Remove
evaporator case drain hose. Disconnect A/C amplifier and evaporator thermistor connectors.
Remove 2 upper evaporator case bolts. Remove evaporator case from vehicle.
3. Release 2 lock tabs, slide A/C amplifier upward and remove amplifier from case. See Fig. 5 .
Separate evaporator assembly halves. Remove evaporator core from case. Remove expansion
valve. Remove thermistor.
nstallation
To install, reverse removal procedure. If installing new evaporator, add .7-1.0 ounce of refrigerant oil
o suction side fitting of compressor. Evacuate and recharge system. Check for leaks.


Heater core job vs. sharp stick in the eye? I'll take the stick...
Not a fun job on any car I've ever heard of... even just a blower fan is usually a PITA.
I wouldn't try to sub the evap core though, I don't think it'd work out. Just go for it, & fix it right. It's time consuming more than anything...

Yes - it is annoying - I manage to just steer around it....

I'm sick of it too!!!

I requested that it be neutered but.................

But I have had this problem twice with Ford products. In both cases it was the headlight switch. As alluded to in several other answers, the connections at the switch became dirty or burned. This increased the amount of current drawn by the circuit to the point it kicked the breaker periodically (also mentioned before). A new switch was not that hard to install, nor terribly expensive.

Your alternator or your battery is not charging. I believe you are reffering to the lightning symbol. Charging system problem.

Please do not reply by clicking "Reply". reply by clicking "Answer Question" so it will reflect in my INBOX so i can get back to you if something comes up

Try to check under the hood, center, rear engine area. In the upper firewall.

disconnect neg. batt. terminal and with ALL switches ect. off or closed(like radio off,doors closed ect) connect a test light between neg. cable and neg. on batt.; if test light comes on,which it sounds like it will,begin removing fuses one at a time until test light goes out. once this happens,look to see what that fuse is for-now you know where your short is,

Found my cover!! 2 rows of fuses 7 on top and 7 on bottom
Row 1 left to right:
15A right head, 15A left head, 15A tail/dome, 15A stop/horn, 15A hazard, 20A door/lock, 20A cigar/radio
Row 2 left to right
15A IG-coil meter, 15A turn/back, 15A wiper/washer, 15A rear defog, 25A heater, 20A RWAL, 15A FI

Hope you get it

Good luck

http://www.kick-fix.com/schematics-run.html

where is the fuel tank located?

check the cover around your brake rotor its a possibility it could have got bent during repair

the pressure switch is malfunctioning

no it will be a heater hose back there. any trans cdooler will be in the front of the rad. and will contain trans fluid...

You should check for battery voltage and ground at headlight electrical connector first. If battery voltage is present, you should check the headlight connector ground terminal for a proper ground. If battery voltage and ground are present at the headlight connector, replace the headlight assembly or bulb if available separately. If battery voltage or ground is not present, refer to the headlight wiring diagram to troubleshoot.

If your wires/connections are still OK (passed the above inspection) then there's a big possibility that your switch is already faulty.